The 2018 Nicolas Catena Zapata was produced with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon interplanted with some Cabernet Franc) and 35% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia vineyard). They no longer use grapes from Agrelo, and this is also a lot higher in Malbec than in other recent vintages. So, it has a very different profile, a change that started in 2017, with more contained ripeness and more freshness, and the wine is intense, keeping some of the Cabernet character (tobacco, blackberries) and the floral notes from Malbec. It comes through as balanced and harmonious, with very fine tannins and a long finish and perfect ripeness. This aims to revive the style of Bordeaux before phylloxera, from massal selection of ungrafted vines... 62,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2019.

Strikingly different from the 2016 of the same wine tasted alongside. Darker, cloves, more spice, more power. Bay leaf. Wood bark and meat. A trace of cooked mulberry, dried woodland fruit, biltong. The structure of the wine feels marble-stone rectangular, Pantheonic in its power and geometric, foursquare, foundational magnificence and impressiveness. The kind of wine that has me looking up, and up, in awe. Their notes say the ideal drinking window is 2040 to 2048, but without that kind of aging reference point, I'm going to be much more conservative in my estimate.

The 2018 Nicolas Catena Zapata was produced with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon interplanted with some Cabernet Franc) and 35% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia vineyard). They no longer use grapes from Agrelo, and this is also a lot higher in Malbec than in other recent vintages. So, it has a very different profile, a change that started in 2017, with more contained ripeness and more freshness, and the wine is intense, keeping some of the Cabernet character (tobacco, blackberries) and the floral notes from Malbec. It comes through as balanced and harmonious, with very fine tannins and a long finish and perfect ripeness. This aims to revive the style of Bordeaux before phylloxera, from massal selection of ungrafted vines... 62,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2019.

Strikingly different from the 2016 of the same wine tasted alongside. Darker, cloves, more spice, more power. Bay leaf. Wood bark and meat. A trace of cooked mulberry, dried woodland fruit, biltong. The structure of the wine feels marble-stone rectangular, Pantheonic in its power and geometric, foursquare, foundational magnificence and impressiveness. The kind of wine that has me looking up, and up, in awe. Their notes say the ideal drinking window is 2040 to 2048, but without that kind of aging reference point, I'm going to be much more conservative in my estimate.

The 2018 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae started with a marked creamy and lactic note, reflecting a very young and tender wine that started with a lot of malic acid. It has lower alcohol and higher acidity than the other two Adrianna bottlings; it's vibrant and lively, nicely textured and surprisingly fresh. The creamy and lactic note disappeared after some time in the glass, giving way to fresher notes, almost citrus. They have also done a selection of individual plants, discarding some plants in lower parts, and the wine has gained in precision and freshness. They used a high percentage of full clusters and fermented it in concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured it in used oak barrels for 18 months. In 2018, the three Adrianna bottlings have more defined character; the differences are more marked than in a year like 2017. This has to be among the finest vintages for the Mundus Bacillus Terrae. 4,800 bottles were filled in November 2019.

There is a heady, sweet florality to the nose here in addition to ripe red cherries. Bombastic and powerful fruit bursts through on the palate immediately. Despite this, there is bright and zesty acidity to hold everything together. There is a slightly confected violet note, but the tannins are highly refined and remain subtle, allowing the fruit to shine through. Admirably long finish.

Deep ruby colour. There is a touch of sweaty reduction at this stage that mutes the nose, but there are notes of deep cassis, blackberry and violet underneath. The palate finds an elegant ripeness – it shows admirable restraint despite the sweet black fruit at the core. There is a sour-cherry note and some remaining reduction that gives a slightly underripe note at the finish. There is also just a hint of warmth at this stage. Though awkward right now, there is promise here. I expect my score may be a little conservative as a result. 

Deep ruby colour. There is a touch of sweaty reduction at this stage that mutes the nose, but there are notes of deep cassis, blackberry and violet underneath. The palate finds an elegant ripeness – it shows admirable restraint despite the sweet black fruit at the core. There is a sour-cherry note and some remaining reduction that gives a slightly underripe note at the finish. There is also just a hint of warmth at this stage. Though awkward right now, there is promise here. I expect my score may be a little conservative as a result. 

Medium tannins. Earthy and toasty, with prune, black olive, scorched almond and a hint of tawny port.

Dark-berry, black-chocolate and tar aromas follow through to a medium to full body with juicy fruit, as well as asphalt and burnt-orange undertones. Drink or hold. Tasted April 2021

The 2018 Nicolás Catena Zapata was produced with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna vineyard, with the Cabernet Sauvignon interplanted with some Cabernet Franc) and 35% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia vineyard). They no longer use grapes from Agrelo, and this is also a lot higher in Malbec than in other recent vintages. So, it has a very different profile, a change that started in 2017, with more contained ripeness and more freshness, and the wine is intense, keeping some of the Cabernet character (tobacco, blackberries) and the floral notes from Malbec. It comes through as balanced and harmonious, with very fine tannins and a long finish and perfect ripeness. This aims to revive the style of Bordeaux before phylloxera, from massal selection of ungrafted vines... 62,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2019.

Strikingly different from the 2016 of the same wine tasted alongside. Darker, cloves, more spice, more power. Bay leaf. Wood bark and meat. A trace of cooked mulberry, dried woodland fruit, biltong. The structure of the wine feels marble-stone rectangular, Pantheonic in its power and geometric, foursquare, foundational magnificence and impressiveness. The kind of wine that has me looking up, and up, in awe. Their notes say the ideal drinking window is 2040 to 2048, but without that kind of aging reference point, I'm going to be much more conservative in my estimate. 

The sleek and elegant 2019 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae is now certified organic (since 2018) and comes from vines planted in 1992 at 1,390 meters above sea level in Gualtallary on alluvial limestone soils. Seventy-five percent of the volume fermented in concrete vats with 50% full clusters, and the remaining 25% fermented in oak foudres. But instead of fermenting the grapes, they only fermented the juice (as it's usually done for white wines), to give the wine more elegance and lightness. I was listening to a record from a new band, Generation Radio, with musicians from Journey and Chicago, and the music had a similar profile to the wine: sleek, elegant, polished, nicely crafted, clean and harmonious, easy to listen to (and drink to) with a soft side to it. The wine has ripeness (14% alcohol) but also high acidity from the high-altitude vineyards, which makes it very lively, beautifully textured, balanced and elegant. Beautiful. 5,400 bottles were filled in November 2020.

So bright and aromatic with flowers and blackberries, as well as some black olives. Full-bodied with lots of tannins, yet they are so fine and integrated and spread across the palate. This is all whole-cluster fermentation and 18 months in large oak casks.

Purple-blue in colour. A touch volatile in aromas with hints of boot polish and balsamic vinegar. These notes give way to dark plums and cherries in time. Sweet and polished fruit dominates the palate, with pastille-like blackcurrant and blackberry at the core. Structurally impressive with fresh acidity and polished sweetness, the nature of the fruit at the moment tempers my score. 

The 2019 Nicolás Catena Zapata was produced with 42% Cabernet Sauvignon from Gualtallary (Adrianna Vineyard), 30% Malbec from Altamira (Nicasia Vineyard) and a high percentage of Cabernet Franc (28%), also from Adrianna, which took the place of Cabernet Sauvignon. It fermented in small oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel tanks with a short post-fermentative maceration. Élevage was in first and second-use French oak barrels and lasted for 18 months, including malolactic.his is always quite classical in style, with some spiciness from the barrels and hints of smoke and toast, still very young and undeveloped. It has the traditional Bordeaux-blend character and is herbal, floral and spicy, with a beautiful texture, very nice balance and very fine, chalky tannins. 2019 was a very dry year, and the berries were small, very healthy and delivered powerful wines.

This has a complex nose of baked blackberries, grilled plums, dried earth, moss, pine cones, sandalwood, charcoal and cloves. It’s medium-bodied with firm, tightly knit tannins. Wow. So much going on. Layered, seamless and silky. Incredible length. Keeps going.

Earthy and savoury, with black tea, umami soy sauce, liquorice, spiced plum and lengthy medium tannic finish.

Deep garnet/purple the 2012 Shiraz Piggott Range Vineyard is youthfully closed with notes of cassis, black plums and mulberries accented by hints of licorice, cedar, black pepper and meaty notes. Full bodied, it has lovely, fine, rounded tannins along with tons of tightly wound, youthful fruit and a long, mineral and earthy finish. Drink 2017 - 2028.

Say what you will about the Mollydooker wine style or marketing, there's no denying that Sarah Marquis is able to build wonderful texture into her wines. The 2017 Carnival of Love Shiraz frames powerful dark fruit aromas with strong cedar overtones, but the highlight is the high-end Mollydooker texture's somewhere between heavy cream, plush velvet and Asia's finest silk. As in the Blue Eyed Boy, red raspberry notes emerge on the finish, bringing a sense of freshness and balance to this rich, flavorsome wine.

Juicy, soft and plush flavors of root beer, scented cherry and raspberry are spicy and a touch candied, but very generous, showing off caramel and sandalwood accents. Smooth and supple through the long finish, this is impressive for the complexity and focus. Drink now through 2029.

It's unabashedly full-bodied, with notes of blackberry, blueberry and cassis, yet it retains a savory edge, rich, velvety tannins and a long, intense finish.

Pepper, spice and tobacco notes are fragrant and bold up front, with dark chocolate, toasted coconut, herb and caramel details to the core of wild blackberry and blueberry flavors. The tannins are dense but polished. Shiraz and Cabernet. Drink now through 2031.

The Rare series has achieved perfection frequently in these pages. Happily nothing has changed. The Non-Vintage Rare Muscadelle is amber/brown approaching black. It offers an ethereal perfume of fig, graham cracker, coconut, caramel, and spice box. Thick, rich, and concentrated, it goes on and on in the finish. Chambers Rosewood Vineyards makes my short list of greatest fortified wine producers. The winery was started in 1858 and continues to be owned by the Chambers family. Some of the material for these blends is over 100 years old. As Robert Parker noted in Issue 168, these wines are the product of solera systems so there is very little, if any, difference from release to release.

Polished, unctuous and complex, layering its spice and pepper character through flavors of dried apricot, tobacco and brown sugar. Offers richness, depth and deftness. Drink now.

Brownish fox red. Extremely intense and a nose that suggests heat and age. So viscous! A hint of grainy cough medicine on the finish and lots of sweetness on the palate though the acidity just stops it being sickly. Very alive and intense. Makes the fingers incredibly sticky! Obviously old and throbbing with life.

The NV Rosewood Vineyards Muscat appears only slightly less complex than the Muscadelle. Possessing a very pale brown colour with a glint of gold, this wine is quite grapey on the nose with notes of brandied sultanas and spice cake. In the mouth, a very sweet and rich with relatively medium-high acid to balance. The finish is very long with flavors of spicy grape syrup. As with the Muscadelle, this is also an amazing value.

This silky, sweet version is the colour of dark tea, with banana notes around the core of caramel, chocolate and cherry, finishing with moderate intensity.

This seems slightly fresher than the basic Muscadelle, offering more balanced flavors, including a touch of orange zest. It is sweet and long, with notes of brown sugar and citrus lingering on the long, more-ish finish.

Mollydooker's 2018 Carnival of Love Shiraz is more red-fruited and structured than I expected, given the wine's stated 16% alcohol. Raspberries and cedar mark the nose, with hints of chocolate, espresso and baking spices. In the mouth, it's full-bodied, dense and powerful, with ripe but firm tannins supporting the bright berry flavors, then easing into a long, velvety and mouthwatering finish. It should drink well for around a decade, but if you're shy of tannins, you may want to wait another year or two before opening.

Aromatic and distinctive, with chai tea, black walnut liqueur and sandalwood details to the plump blackberry and kirsch flavors at the core. Generous and ripe, but the spice and cigar box elements on the finish add a restrained punctuation point. Drink now through 2035.

A blend of 71% Shiraz (the same juice that goes into Carnival of Love) and 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Enchanted Path features slightly lifted floral and herbal aromatics and hints of cassis on the nose, while the flavors on the palate are slightly brighter and redder. It's full-bodied, richly textured and intense, with ample extract, plenty of oak and well-ripened tannins, all of which lead to a finish that's long and slightly drying at the moment. Give it another year or two in the cellar, and it should drink well for at least the next 5-6 years after that. Drink date 2022 - 2027.

Toasty, cedary, cumin-scented raspberry jam and candied strawberry flavors are very fruit-forward and generous, with hints of gunpowder tea and salted caramel that linger on the polished finish. Shiraz and Cabernet. Drink now through 2032.

5 Stars/98 Points: An intense crimson hued wine that is very youthful with many heard ahead of it yet. It exhibits great depth, concentration and vibrancy of varietal fruit richness.

The Polish Hill Riesling is muscular and defined in its structure and is routinely possessed of an authority and grace straight off the bat. This 2022 Polish Hill Riesling is mineral and fine, but phenolic and taut, too. The acidity creates tension and life in the mouth, and despite the wine being pristine, it is chalky and pithy, too. The Polish Hill Riesling has a decorated legacy and is prized for its longevity in the cellar. There have been mutterings of similarities between 2022 and the great and fabled 2002 vintage, boding very well indeed for the future of this wine. Riesling mainlines the dirt and takes us to place. This is why we gravitate toward great wine, to be taken to dirt, vineyard and region. Drink 2022-2042.

Awarded top rank, 5 stars. Jeffrey Grosset reckons 2022 is an even better vintage for him thank 2021, which is some statement as 2021 was a cracker. This wine is always reserved when very young, and so it is with 2022. Pale colour, creamy yeasty, waxy, lemon-pith and blossom aromas, discreet and refined, tense and delicate in mouth. Built beautiful perfumes with time in the glass. Racy and lean. Tension is high, the wine is dry but supple and balanced. Harmonious. Long finish, needs time.

The Knappstein Sparkling Shiraz offers ripe fruit, with soft plump tannins, and a dry finish. Concentration of fruit balances with savoury spice and earthy notes, while waiting for the refreshing hit from the bubbles as they tantalise the palate, leaving a cleansing sensation.

Varietally expressive and beautifully fragrant with blackcurrant, sweet cherry, green olive and roasted nut aromas, it's succulent and finely textured in the mouth displaying ripe fruit intensity backed by polished tannins. Beautifully balanced and elegant with a persistent finish. At its best: now to 2030.

The Mayor's vineyard was planted by a former Mayor of Adelaide in 1969, at 500 meters in elevation on the eastern ridge of Clare Valley. Red loam and slate define the soils here, and that ferrous grunt and minerality go hand in hand in the glass. This 2020 The Mayor's Vineyard Shiraz is an exceptionally savory, layered Shiraz with red dirt, hung deli meat, some oolong tea and salted mulberries at the fore. This is a wonderful wine, at the beginning of its life.''Reviewed Sep 16, 2022

It's full of flavourful with layers of fruit and polished tannins. Serious Shiraz!

Award tasting note: Beautiful balance. A young tingling aroma of fresh key lime, with a fine structure and very long finish. Almost great.

Bright, spicy and vibrant, jazzy with blackberry, cherry and spice flavors, with hints of coffee and anise lingering on the extended finish. The rich flavors are balanced with snappy acidity. Has the intensity to age.

Medium red-purple; the very elegant bouquet has savoury/spicy overtones to the cherry/plum fruit, supported by subtle French oak. The palate is no less elegant, with savoury/chocolate/berry flavours supported by fine tannins and similarly classy oak. Drink to 2017.Source: James Halliday. October, 2000

The 2016 RWT Shiraz is Penfolds's embodiment of Barossa Valley Shiraz. Aged in French oak (72% new), it offers hints of vanilla and cedar, but more than anything, it showcases the region's bold berry and plum fruit. Full-bodied and rich, verging on decadent, yet firmly structured and long on the finish, it's a powerful yet elegant wine that is capable of being consumed young or aging up to two decades. Having embarked on a career in the wine business right around the time the first RWT was released, it's a treat to see how the latest version is showing. It's a relative bargain among the Penfolds upper echelon. Published: Oct 04, 2018

Striking, with polished, fine-grained tannins that provide a velvety background for a complex array of flavors. Sandalwood, chai tea, gingerbread and white pepper notes mingle with supple raspberry, black cherry coulis, spiced plum and red licorice flavors, with a hint of white truffle. Concentrated and harmonious. The finish goes on and on.

This vintage of RWT is flashy and full-bodied, requiring a good deal of cellaring before oak and fruit to come together. At the moment, ripe, opulent fruit notes—blackberry, currant and plum—ride along aromas of coffee and cumin. The barrel influence on the palate is even more prominent but the fruit is plush and tangy. The tannins are fine-grained and well-structured, setting this up for at decade or more of aging. Wait a least until 2020 before cracking it open, though. Christina Pickard

Absolute classic big 'n' bold knockout Aussie shiraz. Hugely ripe and generous, with blackcurrant, boysenberry and spiced plum compote. 15.5% ABV. Finishes long and strong with liquorice, white pepper, a hint of eucalyptus and vanillin oak.

With fabulous clarity, the wine shows green apple, lemon zest and white floral notes on the nose, followed by a crisp-dry palate that’s pristine and lingering. Splendidly styled and expressed with finesse and elegance. At its best: 2026 to 2038.

Splendidly ripe and perfumed on the nose showing black/blueberry, violet, toasted spice and hazelnut characters, leading to a beautifully weighted palate offering velvety texture and plump mouthfeel. Generous and flavoursome with a lingering silky finish. At its best: now to 2032.

  Machine-picked, crushed, destemmed, cultured yeast, maturation in French (60%) and American (40%) oak with 40% new. It’s a joy to see a 4yo shiraz being released from one of the country’s unsung shiraz regions, Coonawarra. It’s a wake-up call, if one was needed, to the excitement that the region and the grape can deliver. A youthful four year old built to last a long time with tight, close-knitted black fruits, high spice and toasted vanilla oak. Coonawarra earth, a mineral clarity of the soil, resides throughout. A beauty in the making.

Machined-Picked, crushed, destemmed, cultured yeast, maturation in French oak (50% new) for 20 months. It's hard to argue against the beauty, the vibrancy of fruit, the buoyant mood this wine puts you in the concentrated carbet blackberry and spice, the whiff of Coonowarra bay leaf, white pepper and the defining tannins that draw in tight. So I won't.

As with so many cabernets, lots of air and time to open up makes such a big difference. This appeared raw and closed at first, with raspy tannins. It then revealed cassis, leafy freshness, dark chocolate, herbs and menthol. A core of sweet fruit works in unison with the cedary oak and while more bottle aged is needed to smooth out the tannins, they are knitted into the body of the wine.

Released with 4 years under its belt yet fresh as can be. The oak has fallen into place, adding extra oomph on the palate. Full-bodied with ample tannins. It's a good place: fruit is still the mix yet savouriness abounds. 

Subtle, silky and restrained for an Oz shiraz. Soft spicy oak with a hint of herb, dark Ghana chocolate, soy umami and a dry finish. Tasted August 2024.

This is precise, expressive and fresh, with a wild character, very different from the other Cinsaults. It has a brothy, meaty touch on the palate that makes it very tasty. Clean and precise, with very good grip, 2018 has to be the finest vintage to date for this wine.

Open wine (herbal, black but delicate fruit, complex). Very well done, with freshness and finesse. I love it! It has a mineral expression, with a soft palate and floral flavours. Spicy and delicate finish, a wonderful Cinsault!

The 2019 Almaviva is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carmenère (from Peumo), 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, higher in Carmenere and reflecting a warmer and drier vintage when then bottled wine reached 15% alcohol. It's full-bodied and round, with saturated tannins, tasty, spicy and long, with a dry, serious finish. It's balsamic, with notes of camphor and a silky and velvety texture.

Balances elegant floral plum and cherry flavors against a well-structured frame of bitter olive, tobacco and savory notes, which persist from a push of fresh acidity. Ends with dark chocolate and espresso notes and firm tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through 2028. 15,000 cases made, 2,400 cases imported.

This red offers ripe plum and cherry cordial flavors up front, revealing layers of nuance as it unfolds, including intriguing orange zest, Calabrian chili and olive notes. Presents a fresh, minerally acidity midpalate that pushes all the flavors to the finish, with zesty but firm tannins and echoes back to the opening flavors. Shows tremendous length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 

Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and fresh flowers. Very cool and pure. Medium-bodied with fine, linear and very integrated tannins that are compressed and silky-textured. New second wine of Almaviva. Needs time to open. 

Such beautiful aromas of crushed berries, currants, walnuts, allspice and nutmeg follow through to a full body with tight, ultra fine tannins that provide length and intensity. A finish of slightly dried cherries with wet earth, slate and stone. Chewy and fine-grained. A wine with soul and length. Give it time. Drink after 2025.

Such beautiful aromas of crushed berries, currants, walnuts, allspice and nutmeg follow through to a full body with tight, ultra fine tannins that provide length and intensity. A finish of slightly dried cherries with wet earth, slate and stone. Chewy and fine-grained. A wine with soul and length. Give it time. Drink after 2025.

The 2019 Almaviva is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carmenère (from Peumo), 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot, higher in Carmenere and reflecting a warmer and drier vintage when then bottled wine reached 15% alcohol. It's full-bodied and round, with saturated tannins, tasty, spicy and long, with a dry, serious finish. It's balsamic, with notes of camphor and a silky and velvety texture.

Balances elegant floral plum and cherry flavors against a well-structured frame of bitter olive, tobacco and savory notes, which persist from a push of fresh acidity. Ends with dark chocolate and espresso notes and firm tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Drink now through 2028. 15,000 cases made, 2,400 cases imported.

2020 was exceptionally dry, with 75% less rain than usual in the period between May and September, which resulted in an earlier harvest to produce a 2020 Almaviva. Ageing of 20 months in French oak barrels, 73% of them new and the rest second use. It still shows the effect of the élevage a bit, with abundant notes of sweet spices, a creamy touch and some smoke. I tasted it next to the 2019, and the wines have a very similar aromatic palette with a clear note of baked peppers. What was amazing in 2020 was that they harvested the Carmenere almost five weeks earlier than they normally would, and the result is not a green wine at all. As in all dry years, the wines show a little more tannic, a little in the style of the 2017—but the 2020 has more tension than the 2017, and the 2017 was more powerful and with a bigger tannic structure. The 2019 had more volume than the 2018, and the 2020 is closer to the 2019 than the 2018. 96/100 Luis Gutiérrez.

Fresh and deep nose, full of blueberries, minty cassis, mussels, cigars, dark spice and roasted sesame oak, which will need a year or two to fully integrate. A medium-to full-bodied Almaviva with supple, silky tannins and a wealth of black and blue fruit that provides a lot of charm now. Voluptuous and flattering on the palate, hallmarked by its tension and taut texture. Very long. This is the 25th anniversary bottling. 68% cabernet sauvignon, 24% carmenere, 6% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Drinkable now, but better from 2024.

The current release of their second wine is the 2020 Epu. It's selected from the same terroir and vineyard in Puente Alto, one of the most reputed places for Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile, but from the younger vines (five- to 20-year-old vines) and harvested a little earlier to preserve acidity and fruit. In the warm and dry 2020 vintage, the wine was produced with a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Carmenere, 5% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, usually higher in Cabernet and lower in Carmenere than Almaviva. It has red ripe berries, the textbook blackberries and cassis and some creamy oak. It's ripe at 14.8% alcohol and has mellow acidity, good freshness and balance, with a pH of 3.71 and 4.8 grams of acidity (tartaric). It matured for 12 months in French barriques, 10% new and 90% second use. The wine has a bright nose with a clean note of baked "morrón" peppers intermixed with red berry compote. It has a velvety plate with the luxurious texture of the modern Bordeaux, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins. It's approachable and round but should reward some time in bottle. This is a pretty serious Epu. 75,000 bottles produced. It was bottled at the end of 2021 and the first days of 2022. Drink: 2023 - 2030.

Lots of finely roasted sweet spice and roasted sesame to the blackberries, cassis and iron, together with hints of blue fruit and cured meat. A medium-to full-bodied palate, filled with rather generous sweet berries. Fleshy, supple and savory with quite fine-grained tannins and a long finish. First year with 10% new wood. 81% cabernet sauvignon, 12% carmenere, 5% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. Already delicious, but can hold, too.

Big, inky and earthy. Smoky and gamey flavours with Cuban cigar, black plum, dark chocolate, prune and truffle. 14% ABV. Assertive, yet medium tannins. Long, dry, funky finish.

Big, inky and earthy. Smoky and gamey flavours with Cuban cigar, black plum, dark chocolate, prune and truffle. 14% ABV. Assertive, yet medium tannins. Long, dry, funky finish.

This Pinot Noir-led bubbly from West Sussex bursts from the glass with singular notes of lemon, thyme and fresh hazelnut, then back to more citrus—fresh this time—with an underbelly of cream and a hint of smoke. The palate is equally expressive, the bright, mouthwatering acidity slicing through the gentle toast with a tangy zing of lemon right to the finish. Bracingly refreshing and nothing but class, this is delicious now, chilled for a warm summer's day. 

It's a blend of pinot noir (50 percent), chardonnay and meunier from the North and South Downs of Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, where the soils are mostly chalk and clay. It's a pretty pink wine with some delicacy to its red-currant flavors, lasting with notes of cardamom and star anise. Pour it with duck rillettes.

The Light Drinker: Pentire are an impressive performer in the non-alcoholic spirit range. They claim their original drink, Pentire Adrift has the highest rating of any non-alcoholic spirit on the Trustpilot ratings; and they have had some stellar reviews, including from the New York Times. This is their second drink, a zesty, breezy mix of pink grapefruit, sea buckthorn, sea rosemary and woodruff. It’s a grown-up drink: dry, and saliva-inducingly tangy adding layers and depth to a good tonic. Their ads often show people sitting on a headland in Cornwall enjoying the drink round a camp fire. It’s perfectly pitched: the herbal, citrussy flavours speak of short thymy turf and salty breezes. Absolutely delicious with a tonic.  

Anthony Rose for The Real Review: Pale gold in colour, the aromas on this fizz are very nicely evolved and show an understated, if inviting buttered Brazil nuttiness; and the aromas are followed by an expansive, surprisingly youthful mousse containing notes of stone fruit and grilled nuts, with a firm spine of youthful acidity, before dissipating on the tongue with an elegantly tangy dry finish. Tasted July 2023. Drink 2023–2026

The Light Drinker: According to the Pentire website, Pentire Adrift has the highest rating of any non-alcoholic spirit on the Trustpilot ratings; they certainly have some very enthusiastic reviews and I agree with all of them.  This is a beautifully crafted drink, no bells or whistles or fancy tricks, just a strongly confident blend of superbly chosen flavours. There’s bright top notes of zesty grapefruit peel balanced by a strongly herbal muskiness of sage which round out the thinness of the citrus,  and the whole is enlivened with the freshness of sea salt and samphire.  It’s fabulous on the nose and, mixed with tonic, is rounded and satisfying, the aromatics performing just as they do in a good gin. There’s a slight sherbetiness in the finish, although there’s no sweetness in the mix, and the whole represents a superb mastery of blending.   If you only have one non-alcohol drink in your cupboard, it might as well be this one.

The Light Drinker: "Spritz is the way forward. I love Pentire’s botanical spirit substitutes, but there’s something about an orangey, bitter aperitif that really works in a non-alcoholic version. Here,Pentire’s botanicals mix is joined by orange zest which steps up to echo the depth and kick of alcohol while rosemary gives a rounded herbiness. There are a lot of new zero alc aperitifs that use that combination and it’s because it’s a brilliantly balanced one, of strong flavours and zingy contrasts. The extra element here is the addition of oakmoss which offsets the other ingredients with woody, spicy and slightly sweet notes. It’s this ingredient that gives the Coastal Spritz a feel of a slightly bitter Martini Rosso rather than, say, a Campari, and I love it. You can trust Pentire to deliver and they have."

The Light Drinker: Pentire are an impressive performer in the non-alcoholic spirit range. They claim their original drink, Pentire Adrift has the highest rating of any non-alcoholic spirit on the Trustpilot ratings; and they have had some stellar reviews, including from the New York Times. This is their second drink, a zesty, breezy mix of pink grapefruit, sea buckthorn, sea rosemary and woodruff. It’s a grown-up drink: dry, and saliva-inducingly tangy adding layers and depth to a good tonic. Their ads often show people sitting on a headland in Cornwall enjoying the drink round a camp fire. It’s perfectly pitched: the herbal, citrussy flavours speak of short thymy turf and salty breezes. Absolutely delicious with a tonic.  

The Light Drinker: According to the Pentire website, Pentire Adrift has the highest rating of any non-alcoholic spirit on the Trustpilot ratings; they certainly have some very enthusiastic reviews and I agree with all of them.  This is a beautifully crafted drink, no bells or whistles or fancy tricks, just a strongly confident blend of superbly chosen flavours. There’s bright top notes of zesty grapefruit peel balanced by a strongly herbal muskiness of sage which round out the thinness of the citrus,  and the whole is enlivened with the freshness of sea salt and samphire.  It’s fabulous on the nose and, mixed with tonic, is rounded and satisfying, the aromatics performing just as they do in a good gin. There’s a slight sherbetiness in the finish, although there’s no sweetness in the mix, and the whole represents a superb mastery of blending.   If you only have one non-alcohol drink in your cupboard, it might as well be this one.

The Light Drinker: "Spritz is the way forward. I love Pentire’s botanical spirit substitutes, but there’s something about an orangey, bitter aperitif that really works in a non-alcoholic version. Here,Pentire’s botanicals mix is joined by orange zest which steps up to echo the depth and kick of alcohol while rosemary gives a rounded herbiness. There are a lot of new zero alc aperitifs that use that combination and it’s because it’s a brilliantly balanced one, of strong flavours and zingy contrasts. The extra element here is the addition of oakmoss which offsets the other ingredients with woody, spicy and slightly sweet notes. It’s this ingredient that gives the Coastal Spritz a feel of a slightly bitter Martini Rosso rather than, say, a Campari, and I love it. You can trust Pentire to deliver and they have."

Tasted single blind against its peers. Château Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential. Tasted January 2011.

Offers a range of charcoal, bay and dark licorice notes out front, backed by an ample core of steeped blackberry and black currant fruit. The charcoal-studded finish has serious grip and pleasantly layered flesh. Should unwind in the cellar, but needs time.

A big, rich wine, showing its gorgeous fruit easily. But with a core of dryness, the ripest apricots touched by caramel, it should age well over many years. There is intense power here, still hidden by the youth of the wine, but with final concentration.

Tasted single blind against its peers. Château Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential. Tasted January 2011.

Offers a range of charcoal, bay and dark licorice notes out front, backed by an ample core of steeped blackberry and black currant fruit. The charcoal-studded finish has serious grip and pleasantly layered flesh. Should unwind in the cellar, but needs time.

A big, rich wine, showing its gorgeous fruit easily. But with a core of dryness, the ripest apricots touched by caramel, it should age well over many years. There is intense power here, still hidden by the youth of the wine, but with final concentration.

Tasted single blind against its peers. Château Climens always tends to go into its shell after bottling, which is probably why I was not dishing out an even higher score to this still, spellbinding Barsac. The 2007 is endowed with a lovely bouquet: very pure with honey, a touch of orange-blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very well-balanced with great purity and a dash of spice as well as a lovely viscous, botrytis-laden finish that possesses awesome weight and persistency. This is a slice of heaven in a glass, but it definitely needs time to reveal its true potential. Tasted January 2011.

Offers a range of charcoal, bay and dark licorice notes out front, backed by an ample core of steeped blackberry and black currant fruit. The charcoal-studded finish has serious grip and pleasantly layered flesh. Should unwind in the cellar, but needs time.

A big, rich wine, showing its gorgeous fruit easily. But with a core of dryness, the ripest apricots touched by caramel, it should age well over many years. There is intense power here, still hidden by the youth of the wine, but with final concentration.

Probably the wine of the vintage (I feel like I say that every year for this cuvee), the 2014 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin is a substantial, full-bodied, shockingly concentrated 2014 that gives up classic notes of blackberries, blueberries, forest floor, beef blood and licorice. Mouth-coating and rich with building tannin, it will be approachable at an earlier age than most vintages, yet will still need 5-6 years of cellaring.

You can sense this is a cooler vintage immediately on the nose - there's more spice, more detail and precision. A little liquorice, leather and violets. Medium-bodied, not as dense as more recent vintages but very well balanced. Great precision, very upright and awake. It might not close down like the 2015 - you could drink this already. It doesn't have the weight and grandeur of some warmer vintages, but this is an excellent wine. It won't last as long as some more concentrated vintages, but that's not a quality issue per se. Very strong showing for a 2014 Châteauneuf.

As this was bottled only a week before I tasted it, I suspect this rating will prove to be conservative once a few months have passed. The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is another prodigious version of this wine. How many wines in this world can be so huge yet so lacking the feeling of weight? There's plenty of layered spice but also a core of raspberries; rich tannins, yet no real astringency; and a long finish without any apparent heat. Wow!

Immediately more red-fruited than other recent vintages, it's warm, with lush stewed fruit scents, stewed plums in particular, and raspberry. Full-bodied, but without the mass of tannin of the 2016. It's warmer on the palate in terms of fruit ripeness and alcohol, and the tannins are a little fibrous. Some coffee bean on the finish. It's feeling a bit closed at the time of tasting - I would leave this until at least 2025 before opening.

As this was bottled only a week before I tasted it, I suspect this rating will prove to be conservative once a few months have passed. The 2015 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is another prodigious version of this wine. How many wines in this world can be so huge yet so lacking the feeling of weight? There's plenty of layered spice but also a core of raspberries; rich tannins, yet no real astringency; and a long finish without any apparent heat. Wow!

Fresh-cut orange, peach and nectarine notes lead the way, followed by lightly singed almond and warm piecrust notes. Then another wave of green fig, warmed pear and coconut takes over on the finish. Rich and honeyed in feel, with obvious power, balanced by an energy in the inner core that should help this cruise in the cellar for some time. Best from 2020 through 2050.

Utter joy. Marmalade, vanilla, mixed spice, cream, butter. Unctuous without excess. Finely tuned with impossibly good balance.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin La Petite Chapelle Premier Cru has a far superior boquet compared to the village crus - much more control over the aromatics, more detail, scents of raspberry coulis, wild strawberry and brown spices, none of the prune-like aromas here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite solid and grippy in the mouth with more black fruit coming through towards the finely tuned finish. This is a serious level up in class over the Comaine's Village Cru's in 2015.

Sporting a deep garnet-purple colour, the 2016 Angélus erupts from the glass with powerful notes of blackberry pie, ripe black cherries and juicy black plums with an undercurrent of star anise, rose petals, chocolate mint, pencil shavings and woodsmoke plus a waft of allspice. The palate is pure decadence. Medium to full-bodied, rich and generously fruited, this wine is by no means heavy it positively glimmers with freshness and vivacity, lending an ethereal nature to all that richness and power, beautifully framed by velvety tannins and finishing with epic length. The generosity, layers and plushness make for an absolutely DELICIOUS drink right now, but I'd suggest waiting 3-5 more years for the fireworks to really begin.

This goes for the gusto, with a deep and broad swath of well-roasted tobacco, espresso and loam out front. The core of dark currant and fig fruit will have to catch up, but this red has the energy and juicy drive to eventually do so. When it melds fully, this will be a smoky, alluring, tobacco-fueled wine.

The level of precision in the cellar at Angélus is always impressive, but they have taken it to new levels in recent years. Parts of the harvest undergo cold soak, plots are vinified at different temperatures, and undergo different lengths of post-fermentation maceration depending on tannic or fruit potential. The cellar is kept cooler than normal to preserve aromatics. This wine is delicious, with a hugely aromatic freshness in the mouth, showing griotte cherries, gourmet spice and floral notes of violets and white flowers. This is 70% new oak, a little more than usual, but a mark of the vintage is this ability to take new oak very well. Blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc.

Deep garnet-purple coloured, the 2016 Ducru-Beaucaillou features a wonderfully savory, earthy/meaty nose, delivering well-defined notes of tapenade, truffles, charcuterie and sautéed herbs over créme de cassis, wild blueberries and kirsch.

The 2016 Ducru-Beaucaillou was picked 24 September to 10 October, matured in 100% new oak for 18 months. It has an etheral boquet, the purest on any Ducru-Beaucaillou, with copious dark cherries, violet and mineral scents, a touch of forest floor emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a little more red fruit towards the finish than the 2018 tasted alongside and maybe just beginning to closeup to mature over the long-term. What a fantastic wine, one that will vie with the 2009 and maybe the 2018 as one of the peaks. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the Château.

The 2016 L'Eglise Clinet has a medium to deep garnet-purple colour with aromas of warm black cherries, mulberries and Black Forest cake slipping seductively from the glass plus nuances of rose hip tea, baking spices, fragrant soil and fallen leaves. Medium to full-bodied, it's wonderfully elegant in the mouth with fantastically plush tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long and very perfumed. Beautiful!

This pulls it all together, with a gorgeous core of creamed plum, blackberry and boysenberry confiture notes, laced with singed anise and incense accents and backed by long echoes of anise and black tea. Delivers ample flesh from start to finish, and should easily finish soaking up its toast with some time in the cellar. 

One of the monumental wines in the vintage is the 2016 Château Eglise Clinet from proprietor Denis Durantou. Based on 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, this utterly perfect wine boasts a saturated purple colour as well as an essence of Pomerol bouquet of ripe black cherries, blackcurrant liqueur, smoked tobacco, camphor, and graphite. Deep, full-bodied, incredibly powerful, and layered, yet always with class and balance, it offers a remarkable marriage of power and finesse. It’s already sexy and seductive yet also a baby, and needs 7-8 years of cellaring. It should keep for 3-4 decades (probably longer), but why wait?

The 2016 La Conseillante is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc aged in 70% new and 30% one-year-old French oak for 17 months. Deep garnet-purple coloured, it slips provocatively out of the glass with a lifted perfume of roses, candied violets and lavender over a core of warm red and black plums, chocolate box, unsmoked cigars and baked cherries with wafts of wild thyme and tilled soil. Medium-bodied, the palate exudes polish and sophistication with bags of fragrance, freshness and energy, sporting exquisitely fine-grained tannins and finishing very long and minerally. Around 3,808 cases produced.

Bright raspberry and blackberry confiture flavors fill out nicely as they move along, followed by a well-buried graphite edge and a flash of cocoa at the very end. Has a vivid display of fruit and the buried spine to back it up.

The aromas of violets and dark berries with licorice and sweet black tea are so attractive. What really impresses is the sweet fruit in the dense middle palate. So attractive. At the same time, there’s plenty of plush and ripe tannins that give the wine form and brightness. And it still remains bright on the finish, as the tannins roll on. A great Conseillante. Try after 2024.

Sourced from the granitic western portion of the appellation, the 2016 Hermitage La Chapelle features mouthwatering aromas of black olives and charred beef. It's full-bodied and creamy-velvety in texture, incredibly lush without being overtly fruity. In fact, it's largely savory, with elegant shadings of leather and spice on the long, silky finish. Yet despite being delicious now, this still has the granite backbone to age through 2040.

Very spicy and peppery with blue-granite aromas plus hints of grilled and smoked meat. Cloves and nutmeg. Full body, round and juicy tannins and a super spicy finish that almost burns with so much character yet turns fine and focused at the end. A beauty.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Vielles Vignes, which is completely de-stemmed, has a very open bouquet of raspberry and crushed strawberry aromas, quite sensual in style. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fruit grip. Slightly chalky toward the finish, which lingers nicely in the mouth. Very fine.

Full, dark ruby-red with a purple hue, slightly lighter on the rim. The nose is gently full, with attractive, aromatic aromas of blackberry and black cherry, leading to floral hints and fruit cake. Medium-bodied, aromas of blackberry and cherry are fresh and vibrant, melded with a hint of floral, spiced fruit cake and farmyard. Soft, powdery tannin holds some power and lively acidity carries a juicy, sustained finish. Match with beef brisket and bolognese over the next 2-3 years. Made from a blend of local varieties, grown in biodynamic principles, indigenous yeasts fermentation, 13% alc, lightly sulphured before bottling. 18/20 pts (90pts) Oct 2023.

Cool and much more restrained aromas offer up notes of essence of green apple, plenty of mineral reduction, acacia blossom and pure citrus elements. The ultra-refined and equally pure middle weight flavors brim with an almost pungent minerality that continues on the beautifully detailed, compact and highly energetic finish. This chiseled effort is really quite impressive.

Pale golden orange. Very sweet and lacking complexity but one of the smoothest, sweetest vintages here like molten honey with a hint of orange-flower water. Still going strong. Just drying a little on the finish.

The Gounouilhou family bottled to order and the wines from 1970 back belong very much to their era. Orange barley-sugar colour very bright. Light and refreshing and sweet and a bit sticky. Bit of decay and lots of chew and alcohol. No length. Chewy end.

The 1975 Climens has a glorious bouquet with beautifully defined citrus fruit, wild honey, orange blossom and just a touch of old antique furniture. It blossoms in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a killer line of acidity. This is still fresh and tense with marmalade, grapefruit, mandarin, bitter orange and brown spices. It feels long and tender in the mouth: quite a powerful Climens at its peak.

This particular bottle was very slightly stinky on the nose, certainly when first opened. It was admirably balanced on the palate in terms of sweetness (not that sweet in fact) and acidity and was pretty impressively lively for a 40-year-old wine but I suspect it was not the best bottle. See Julia's very enthusiastic note on what I suspect was a much better bottle.

An average of five and a half years old, and a blend of Grande and Petite Champagne, H by Hine is light amber, with a pretty nose of iris and buttered brioche. On the palate, it's light and fresh, offering notes of nougat and candied orange, and some wood on the finish.

From Grande Champagne and aged an average of 20 years. Light copper in colour, with a subtle nose redolent of fresh flowers at first, but as it opens there are more expressive notes of fruit pastry, which carry on to the full-bodied palate. Pear tart, hazelnuts and a bit of spice and tobacco on the finish.

An average of five and a half years old, and a blend of Grande and Petite Champagne, H by Hine is light amber, with a pretty nose of iris and buttered brioche. On the palate, it’s light and fresh, offering notes of nougat and candied orange, and some wood on the finish.

Tasted from magnum (the 750-milliliter bottle costs $285), the NV Brut (Gold) opens with lovely matured brioche, toast and ripe fruit flavors. Fresh, pure and elegant on the palate, with beautifully matured flavors and an elegant creaminess I don't find in the other cuvées, the Gold is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier as well as the vintages of 2009, 2010 and 2012. The wine reveals good grip and mineral tension and drinks well as an aperitif or with seafood and fish. Tasted from L09B8, April 2018.

An elegant, creamy Champagne, with pretty apple blossom and spice notes leading to finely meshed flavors of ripe white cherry, whole-grain toast and spun honey, framed by fresh, citrusy acidity.

Light gold. Musky orchard and pit fruit aromas are brightened by hints of lemon zest and ginger. Ripe pear and honey flavours show a touch of heat and pick up a toasty quality with aeration. Finishes soft, warm and slightly loose, with a hint of bitter peach pit, echoing toastiness and decent length. This bottling actually impressed me a few years ago but that wasn't the case this go-round.

The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is showing beautifully today, with aromas of confit citrus, pear, herbs, orchard fruits, pastry and brioche. Medium to full-bodied, it is round and supple with the delicate, bright tension that is the signature of Billecart-Salmon. Perfectly balanced and offering a vinous, toasty and elegantly long finish, it's based on the 2017 vintage with 23% from 2016. Vinified and matured in stainless steel, it spent five years on the lees in bottle before being disgorged with a dosage of 1.7 grams per liter. Billecart-Salmon’s style is characterized by elegance, purity and delicate freshness. Low fermentation temperatures are employed to preserve the purity and expressiveness of the fruit, while malolactic fermentation is systematically blocked to maintain the wine’s vibrant acidity. Since Mathieu Roland-Billecart’s arrival in 2018, the estate has expanded its barrel program, focusing on the best terroirs for cuvées like Brut Réserve and Brut Sous Bois, and has initiated biodynamic viticulture in Le Clos Saint-Hilaire.

Lightly toasty and creamy in texture, yet well-cut and vibrant throughout, this shows a minerally base note underscoring the flavours of poached pear, candied lemon zest, toasted brioche and pickled ginger.

Light yellow-gold. High-pitched citrus and orchard fruit scents are complemented by notes of honeysuckle, lemongrass and chalky minerals. Spicy, focused and mineral-driven, with intense Meyer lemon, tangerine and pear skin flavors given depth by a hint of brioche. A note of smokiness builds on the finish, which hangs on with outstanding floral persistence.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

A vibrant, well-knit version, lacy in texture and offering an appealing mix of juicy fresh-cut apple, pear tart, pickled ginger, honey and lemon flavours.

Conventional champagne colour, lighter than the 2004 Blanc de Blancs. The perfume is stunning on this wine. People get sniffy about pinot meunier, but when it is handled as Billecart-Salmon do, it has a fragrant florality to which is magical. The aroma combines the best side of pink roses (imagine a pink variant of the cream 'Peace' rose) with the pure natural best side of strawberry aroma, yet it is winey. Behind that is pinot noir-led near-cherry quality fruit, and great autolysis, really baguette-crust in quality. Palate is wonderfully flavoursome, because the perfume on bouquet expands and almost bursts in mouth, carrying the baguette and Vogels Multigrain autolysis flavours to every tastebud one owns. As a 'standard' champagne this really is special, aided by the sophisticated dosage of 7 g/L. Again, not a long keeper with the high ratio of meunier, say 3 8 years, so it might be best to enjoy that sensational flavour while it is fresh.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

A vibrant, well-knit version, lacy in texture and offering an appealing mix of juicy fresh-cut apple, pear tart, pickled ginger, honey and lemon flavours.

Conventional champagne colour, lighter than the 2004 Blanc de Blancs. The perfume is stunning on this wine. People get sniffy about pinot meunier, but when it is handled as Billecart-Salmon do, it has a fragrant florality to which is magical. The aroma combines the best side of pink roses (imagine a pink variant of the cream 'Peace' rose) with the pure natural best side of strawberry aroma, yet it is winey. Behind that is pinot noir-led near-cherry quality fruit, and great autolysis, really baguette-crust in quality. Palate is wonderfully flavoursome, because the perfume on bouquet expands and almost bursts in mouth, carrying the baguette and Vogels Multigrain autolysis flavours to every tastebud one owns. As a 'standard' champagne this really is special, aided by the sophisticated dosage of 7 g/L. Again, not a long keeper with the high ratio of meunier, say 3 – 8 years, so it might be best to enjoy that sensational flavour while it is fresh.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's newly released NV Brut Réserve incorporates fully 53% reserve wines, up from just over a third in the past, and incorporates the usual 40% Pinot Meunier in the blend. Offering up attractive aromas of citrus ze

A vibrant, well-knit version, lacy in texture and offering an appealing mix of juicy fresh-cut apple, pear tart, pickled ginger, honey and lemon flavours.

Conventional champagne colour,  lighter than the 2004 Blanc de Blancs.  The perfume is stunning on this wine.  People get sniffy about pinot meunier,  but when it is handled as Billecart-Salmon do,  it has a fragrant florality to which is magical.  The aroma combines the best side of pink roses (imagine a pink variant of the cream 'Peace' rose) with the pure natural best side of strawberry aroma,  yet it is winey.  Behind that is pinot noir-led near-cherry quality fruit,  and great autolysis,  really baguette-crust in quality.  Palate is wonderfully flavoursome,  because the perfume on bouquet expands and almost bursts in mouth,  carrying the baguette and Vogels Multigrain autolysis flavours to every tastebud one owns.  As a 'standard' champagne this really is special,  aided by the sophisticated dosage of 7 g/L.  Again,  not a long keeper with the high ratio of meunier,  say 3 – 8 years,  so it might be best to enjoy that sensational flavour while it is fresh.  

Based on the 2015 vintage and disgorged with nine grams per liter dosage, the latest release of Billecart's NV Brut Réserve contains fully 55% reserve wines and is showing very well, offering up complex aromas of warm bread, crisp green orchard fruit and citrus oil. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied and charming but lively, with an elegantly textural attack, a fleshy core of fruit and lively balancing acids.

A vibrant, well-knit version, lacy in texture and offering an appealing mix of juicy fresh-cut apple, pear tart, pickled ginger, honey and lemon flavours. 

Conventional champagne colour, lighter than the 2004 Blanc de Blancs. The perfume is stunning on this wine. People get sniffy about pinot meunier, but when it is handled as Billecart-Salmon do, it has a fragrant florality to which is magical. The aroma combines the best side of pink roses (imagine a pink variant of the cream 'Peace' rose) with the pure natural best side of strawberry aroma, yet it is winey. Behind that is pinot poir-led near-cherry quality fruit, and great autolysis, really baguette-crust in quality. Palate is wonderfully flavoursome, because the perfume on bouquet expands and almost bursts in mouth, carrying the baguette and Vogels Multigrain autolysis flavours to every tastebud one owns. As a 'standard' champagne this really is special, aided by the sophisticated dosage of 7 g/L. Again, not a long keeper with the high ratio of meunier,  say 3 – 8 years, so it might be best to enjoy that sensational flavour while it is fresh. 18.5 Points.

Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose’s captivating style.

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

If the greatness of rosé champagne is measured in the fairy-touch of delicacy and the whisper of finesse, Billecart is the greatest. Dollar-for-champagne-dollar, no other aperitif speaks with such haunting fidelity. The utter restraint of Billecart places rose's very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rosé rather than 'rosé champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

The utter restraint of Billecart places rosé's very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rose' rather than 'rose champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuvee has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

The utter restraint of Billecart places rosé's very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rose' rather than 'rose champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuvee has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

The utter restraint of Billecart places rosé's very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rose' rather than 'rose champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuvee has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.

<p class="p1">This superb Champagne has become my go-to ros&#233; Champagne because it is so consistent and good... Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose... is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose&rsquo;s captivating style. </p>

<p class="p1">Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.</p>

<p class="p1">The utter restraint of Billecart places ros&#233;'s very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne ros&#233; rather than 'ros&#233; champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuv&#233;e has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.</p>

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

The utter restraint of Billecart places ros&#233;'s very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rose' rather than 'rose champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuvee has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.

This new wine was made to &lsquo;capture the essence of Billecart-Salmon', according to seventh generation owner Mathieu Roland-Billecart. From 92% Pinot Noir, 4% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Meunier, this is a blend of eight grands crus from the Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including the 1ha Pinot Noir vineyard of Le Clos St-Hilaire in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Exceptional reserve wines from 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012 were vinified half in steel and half in old oak casks, with a dosage of 4.5g/l, making it an extra brut style. It has a hugely expressive nose of red apple, nougat and citrus, with the hallmark 'old rose' fragrance from Clos St-Hilaire. There's an elegant mousse with very fine, fast-streaming bubbles and powerful, juicy flavours of baking spices, praline, and tart apples. A smoky mineral note and bright acidity offer real refreshment through the long finish, and while drinking beautifully now, it has the structure to last and will improve with age. To mark the year of the house's founding, just 1,818 magnums were made, along with 18 jeroboams. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035

This new wine was made to &lsquo;capture the essence of Billecart-Salmon', according to seventh generation owner Mathieu Roland-Billecart. From 92% Pinot Noir, 4% Chardonnay and 4% Pinot Meunier, this is a blend of eight grands crus from the Cote des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, including the 1ha Pinot Noir vineyard of Le Clos St-Hilaire in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Exceptional reserve wines from 2000, 2003, 2008 and 2012 were vinified half in steel and half in old oak casks, with a dosage of 4.5g/l, making it an extra brut style. It has a hugely expressive nose of red apple, nougat and citrus, with the hallmark 'old rose' fragrance from Clos St-Hilaire. There's an elegant mousse with very fine, fast-streaming bubbles and powerful, juicy flavours of baking spices, praline, and tart apples. A smoky mineral note and bright acidity offer real refreshment through the long finish, and while drinking beautifully now, it has the structure to last and will improve with age. To mark the year of the house's founding, just 1,818 magnums were made, along with 18 jeroboams. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035

One of the most refreshing and well-crafted sweet champagnes on the shelves; with acidity and poise to handle its honeyed sweetness. This transforms the clean fruit precison that defines Billecart into candied citrus, lemon drops and glace figs, with a creamy, sweet finish, well toned by balanced acidity.

Floral, fresh and distinctive with a mix of light red berry fruit aromas, balanced and even autolysis and moderate complexity. Quite delicious on the palate with a red cherry, red apple and fine red strawberry core, baked goods and a whisper of spice.

The NV Brut Grand R&#233;serve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

Whole-grain bread, malt and candied berry aromas and flavors highlight this intense yet creamy Champagne, which picks up a floral accent as it cruises to a long, mouthwatering finish.

Incredible value for a blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir) grower Champagne from the grand cru vineyards of Bouzy. It shows gorgeous aromas of stone fruit, citrus and strawberry, with complex brioche nuances, remarkable balance, ongoing elegance and a rich, refined, persistent finish.

The NV Brut Grand R&#233;serve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

Whole-grain bread, malt and candied berry aromas and flavors highlight this intense yet creamy Champagne, which picks up a floral accent as it cruises to a long, mouthwatering finish.

Incredible value for a blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir) grower Champagne from the grand cru vineyards of Bouzy. It shows gorgeous aromas of stone fruit, citrus and strawberry, with complex brioche nuances, remarkable balance, ongoing elegance and a rich, refined, persistent finish.

Aged for six years on the second lees, the yellow-golden NV Brut The V6 Experience is a Bouzy Pinot Noir that displays great purity and intensity but also reduction on the mineral-scented nose. This is deep and complex, but it needs all our patience and perhaps even a decanter or at least a big glass and lots of aeration. The palate is rich and powerful, firmly structured, very tight and still astringent on the finish, but there is so much finesse paired with power, concentration and fruit, which give the V6 a promising future. The wine just starts a bit slowly (like a rocket, which is pictured on the label), but it will most probably go very steep in a couple of years. I have[n't] ever had this cuv&#233;e before, so I can only guess, though.

Jeasn-Francois describes pinot noir as entering a phase he dubs 'The Whirlwind' in it's sixth year of maturation. The rest of his inspiration is impossible to put into words, but clicking on 'Cuv&#233;e Design Specification' on his website will put you on the right trajectry. For the exhuberance of Bouzy Pinot Noir and not inconsiderable age, the freshness packed into this cuv&#233;e is something to behold. Grapefruit tang meetds crunchy red apple fruit, contrasting the generosity and spice of the village and the tension of zero dosage. Get on board. 100% Pinot; 80% 2012, 20% solera of 2008, 2005, 2004 and 2002; agd 72 months on lees; zero dosage here but released with 5g/L dosage based on a liqueur of barrel-aged chardonnay and refined sugar.

Slight reduction still hovers on this wine's nose but yeasty apple freshness awaits underneath. Yeasty finesse and bright freshness come together on the palate, making for a light-bodied, elegant and dry wine with yeasty resonance.&nbsp;

The latest rendition of NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is excellent, offering up aromas of lemon oil, wet stones and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with good concentration, racy acids, an ultra-fine mousse and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is a classy introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier range.

Firm and focused, this creamy version features tropical hints of guava and kumquat and flavors of biscuit and salted almond, underscored by smoky minerality. Light spice notes show on the balanced finish.

It encapsulates the gorgeous freshness of young Vertus chardonnay in its grapefruit, freshly picked apple and lemon blossom aromas, while boring deep into its chalk mineral structure, building great textural presence, amplified by the spicy, nutty complexity of barrel fermentation.

Billecart's newly released NV Brut Nature exhibits aromas of fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit, almond paste and ripe citrus fruit. Medium-bodied, pillowy and precise, it's crisp and bone-dry, without being in the least austere. (Sep 21)

Firm and toasty, this tightly knit example features grilled nut and smoke accents that lace the crunchy pear and lemon curd flavors. Drink now.

A blend of pinot meunier 40%, pinot noir 30% and chardonnay 30% with 48 months en tirage. No sugar was added to the dosage. Fine, creamy Champagne with grapefruit, lemon curd, wildflowers and brioche flavours. A classy wine with a crisp, dry and lingering finish.

Containing 135 grams per liter of residual sugar, the pale lemon-gold coloured 2016 d'Yquem leaps from the glass with honeyed apricots, pineapple, green mango, crushed rocks, candied ginger, coriander seed and citrus peel with hints of orange blossom. The palate is very tightly wound, vibrant and refreshing with layer upon layer of minerals and spices, finishing with epic poise and persistence.

This is exotic, with very lush and seductive notes of coconut, honeysuckle, creamed white peach, glazed pear, mirabelle plum and yellow apple, all woven together seamlessly. Beautifully caressing in feel, with a long acacia echo on the finish.

A very classic Yquem. Breathtakingly wide spectrum of floral honey, exotic fruit (passion fruit, mango and pineapple), caramel and marzipan aromas. But none of this is a jot too much. In fact, the wine is extremely precise and finely nuanced. Wonderful freshness and textural complexity, in spite of the considerable concentration and extravagance. Very suave and sensual finish that goes on and on. Drink or hold.

Dried fig and cassis are layered with earth, iron and charred mesquite notes in this densely packed red. Delivers dusty tannins with a slightly bitter edge on the nicely structured finish. Drink now through 2025.

Seems a little shy at the moment, but you can tell that this has serious poise and pedigree with subtle clove, crushed-brick, iron, black-cherry and plum-skin character. It&rsquo;s full-bodied, yet very tight and reserved with super refined tannins that are so fine-textured, yet intense. Give this three or four years to show its true self. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2023.

The 2006 Brut Cuv&#233;e Nicolas Fran&ccedil;ois is showing superbly, bursting with aromas of warm bread, citrus oil, wild berries, smoke and gingerbread. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and voluminous, with a concentrated and fleshy core, chalky dry extract a

Fine and creamy, this harmonious Champagne layers a firm backbone of bright acidity with a lovely range of orange p&acirc;te de fruit, marzipan, lime blossom and toasted brioche notes. Tightly meshed and racy, with a long, lightly spiced finish.

Named after the founder of the house, Nicolas Fran&ccedil;ois Billecart (who married Elisabeth Salmon), this wine is now at its peak. It is poised between fresh apple fruits and broader, riper maturity. This balance gives a ripe wine hinting at toast and almonds while still with a dry aftertaste. Drink now, although in 2019 it will be even better.

The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but thatparadoxically for a sweet wineis almost beside the point.

Average temperatures 2.7C over average, combined with 20% of the normal rainfall from mid August to the end of July made makes this a naturally rich, low-yielding vintage (40% less than average, not helped by a hail storm in July), with a gloriously gourmet 145g/ha residual sugar, and a pH level of 3.95. As ever with Yquem, patience was the key, taking in the grapes slowly but surely over 17 days harvest that extended well into October. The results in the glass are intense and glossy, full of satin-textured apricot and white peach flavours. There are exotic fruits of pineapple and mango but winemaker Sandrine Garbay has kept a focus on fresher flavours of lime zest and citrus that balance out the natural richness and concentration. Pretty closed right now, but there is power and balance here, an excellent Yquem.

The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but thatparadoxically for a sweet wineis almost beside the point.

Average temperatures 2.7C over average, combined with 20% of the normal rainfall from mid August to the end of July made makes this a naturally rich, low-yielding vintage (40% less than average, not helped by a hail storm in July), with a gloriously gourmet 145g/ha residual sugar, and a pH level of 3.95. As ever with Yquem, patience was the key, taking in the grapes slowly but surely over 17 days harvest that extended well into October. The results in the glass are intense and glossy, full of satin-textured apricot and white peach flavours. There are exotic fruits of pineapple and mango but winemaker Sandrine Garbay has kept a focus on fresher flavours of lime zest and citrus that balance out the natural richness and concentration. Pretty closed right now, but there is power and balance here, an excellent Yquem.

The 2016 Le Petit Lion is composed of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple coloured, it leaps from the glass with notions of warm blackcurrants, blackberry pie, redcurrant jelly and tilled soil with touches of hoisin, Sichuan pepper, unsmoked cigars, red roses and smoked meats. Medium to full-bodied, the palate explodes with vibrant red and black fruit preserves, with a wonderfully fine-grained frame and very long, lifted finish.

Solid, with dark plum and anise notes at the core, laced with mouthwatering briar and apple wood accents. Shows a textbook AOC profile, but not superdense, so drink as soon as this settles in while you wait for the big boys. Best from 2021 through 2030.

The 2016 Leoville Las-Cases was tasted from two cbottles, this one more in line with prior experiences. It has a very detailed, powerful boquet of blackberry, cedar, potpourri and iiris aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannins, pitch-perfect acidity and a sense of harmony throughout. It fans out wonderfully on the finish. A 2016 with a sense of completeness and bewitching symmetry. Tasted bland at the Southwold tasting.

Velvety tannins envelope the licorice-tinged cherry and raspberry flavors in this bold, medium-bodied red, with tangy acidity weaving through the spice and mineral elements. Drink now through 2027.

Fantastic core of dark ruby leading to a bright pale ruby and pink rim. Aromas of fresh dark cherry and brown baking spices, a granitic-like stony mineral quality and dark roses quality. Dry on the palate and quite intense with a core of dark red berry.

Soft, fruity, gamay with mellow, flavours that suggest ripe plum, cherry, and a seasoning of spices. Accessible now but no hurry. Seductive texture, not particularly powerful but delicious to drink. 10 JAN 2024.

Youthful, fruity aromas of peach, apple and bread dough persist as this white plays out on the palate. Moderate length. Drink now.

A dry, medium-plus-bodied delicious mouthful of ripe yellow apple, lemon-lime zest &amp; toasty oak spice.

This is vibrant, evoking notes of lemon and earth, with a saline, mineral element that leaves a mouthwatering finish. Balanced and immediate, with moderate length. Drink now.&nbsp;

This balanced and classic wine is creamy, with an abundance of citrus accents from lemon curd and lemon blossom to tangerine sorbet. Minerality plays a starring role alongside fine acidity.

From steep slopes upper Maconnais, of the village of Fuis&#233;, Solutr&#233;, Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintr&#233;, on which the soils are a mixture of clay and chalk from the Jurassic era. Straw colour, clear. Settled, warm with citrus, toast and butter notes. Spice and floral lead to a round, fleshy, oily textured mouthfeel, with butter, marmalade and toast laden palate. Strong barrel fermented character, with charry oak notes, peach and spice, this is one of those wines in a blind tasting one may consider new world regions such as Margaret River and Hawke's Bay in a lineup format. Full bodied, round shaped palate with moderate concentration and complexity, perhaps a little more expressive of the winemaker, less of the specific terroir expression shown in the previous wines here. I mean this in a positive way, this delivers for the oaky, butter and toast Chardonnay fans out there a plenty. - Brandon Nash, May 2023

Based on the 2018 vintage, Billecart's new NV Brut Roe incorporates 40% reserve wines and some 6% still red wine. Bursting with scents of sweet red berries, peonies, stone fruits, white cherries, freshly baked bread and spices, it's medium to full-bodied,

Finely meshed and elegant, with mouth-watering acidity and satiny texture carrying the delicate flavours of ripe raspberry, lemon shortbread, chalk and fresh ginger. Offers a clean, minerally finish.

The utter restraint of Billecart places ros&#233;'s very close to its heart. Dubbed internationally 'champagne rose' rather than 'rose champagne'... As precise and pretty as ever, this is classically restrained Billecart of epic refinement, pale-salmon hue and gorgeously restrained rose petal, red cherry and strawberry hull fruit. This cuvee has attained that wonderful place where lees age contributes great texture and mouthfeel, without diminishing purity or freshness. Delightfully understated, eminently fresh and elegantly persistent, it carries with grace and poise amidst fine chalk mineral texture, taut acid focus, impeccably pure persistence and a fine creamy bead. Enjoy it in its ravishing youth.

Average age of the vines 100 years old. Red and purple colours, clear. Spicy nose, with red fruits and light floral elements, not as deep and brooding as the Chambolle, more savoury showing the extra couple of years bottle aging perhaps. Light cherry flavours on the palate, clear stony limestone textural influence, both in tension and saline flavour elements, less fruit intense on the finish. - Brandon Nash, May 2023

Based on the 2018 vintage, with 55% of reserve wines, the NV Brut R&#233;serve from Billecart-Salmon is a blend of 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, with a dosage of 6.2 grams per liter. It offers a bouquet with aromas of spring flowers, menthol, pastry, brioche, orchard fruits and pear. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is moderately weighted, with a delicate mousse and a perfectly balanced texture. Very charming. It concludes with a saline, aromatic finish. It represents the first stage in the qualitative evolution of the house, initiated by Mathieu Roland-Billecart. Billecart-Salmon&rsquo;s style is one of elegance, purity and delicate freshness. Low fermentation temperatures preserve purity and expressive fruit, and malolactic fermentation is systematically blocked. An expanded barrel program has been established since the arrival of Mathieu Roland-Billecart in 2018, with a focus on the best terroirs for the Brut R&#233;serve or Brut Sous Bois.

A vibrant, well-knit version, lacy in texture and offering an appealing mix of juicy fresh-cut apple, pear tart, pickled ginger, honey and lemon flavours.

The most recent release of the NV Champagne Brut is based on the 2019 vintage and takes this cuv&#233;e to new heights, bringing down the dosage to 3 grams per liter dosage, while simultaneously significantly increasing the amount of reserve wine which comprises 62% of the blend, with 8% barrel aging. It retains the classic varietal blend of 40% Meunier and 30% each Pinot and Chardonnay. In the glass, it&rsquo;s very precise while also retaining a lot of the immediate appeal this cuv&#233;e has always achieved, but it now has markedly improved in overall quality. On opening, it&rsquo;s floral and expressive, with a touch of fresh tropical fruit of mango, cherry blossom, and wet stone. Medium-bodied, with juicy fruit upfront, it takes on the most focus and soars across the finish with crunchy salinity. I love the direction they have taken with this wine, which is more focused and linear. Drink 2024-2036.&nbsp;

The 2018 Figeac is composed of 37% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc, with a 3.7 pH and 14% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple in colour, it soars out of the glass with opening notes of freshly crushed red and black cherries.

The 2018 Figeac is a regal, aristocrat Saint-Emilion. Vertical in feel, Figeac possesses a stunning energy and vibrancy right out of the gate. Fark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, rse petal and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. Figeac is a bit restrained today, but it won't be an issue is another few years/ time. Figeac is not obvious wine, but it is superb.

The 2019 Palmer is a rich, dramatic wine that soars from the glass with aromas of cherries, blackberries and berry fruit liqueur mingled with notions of violets, rose petals and sweet spices. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's powerful and immensely concentrated, with an enveloping core of lively fruit that largely conceals the wine's ripe, powdery structuring tannins. Concluding with a long, penetrating finish, it's a brilliant rendition of the contemporary Palmer style from Thomas Duroux and his team.

Shows the powerful fruit of the vintage, with waves of dark plum, warmed cassis and cherry compote flavors driving through, inlaid with a graphite edge and backed by an iron note on the finish. Features good underlying energy and everything is knit tightly, without the toothy grain typical of the vintage. Very solid. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2038.

Iris and violet aromatics swirl out of the glass. In the mouth, things are velvet in texture and packed with concentrated cassis puree and blackberry fruit, gentle spice, soft charcoal and sappy tannins, with the whole thing just slowly slowly expanding and building through the palate, tightening its grip as it reaches the close of play. The Palmer signature of energy and precision is here in spades, and altogether the wine is both measured and elegant, with textbook floral Margaux character, while being extremely juicy, creamy and enjoyable, with a mouthwatering salinity on the finish - up there with the very best vintages of this estate. Low SO2, as has been the case for a few years now in line with biodynamic principles. Back to normal yield this year of (a very welcome I would imagine) 45hl/ha. Harvest September 19 to October 19. 60% new oak, likely to be in barrels for the first year then large sized oak casks for the second year. 55% of overall production in the 1st wine. Drinking Window 2028 - 2042

The 2019 La Conseillante is performing brilliantly and rivals the 2016 as Marielle Cazaux's finest vintage at this leading Pomerol estate to date. Wafting from the glass with striking aromas of raspberries, plums, violets, raw cocoa, sweet soil tones and licorice, framed by a deftly integrated touch of classy new oak, it's full-bodied, ample and enveloping, its broad attack segueing into a seamless, layered mid-palate that's vibrant and concentrated, framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, before concluding with a long, saline finish.

Deeply coloured, high aromatics with iris and violets, extremely focused with savoury fruits - a character that I have found in the Cabernet Francs in this vintage. It has an excellent grip that takes hold from the first moment and carries you through building tannins. A lovely tactile wine and an austere finish, signs that this will age for decades. The chocolate of Pomerol comes in on the end, but you have to wait for it, the beginning is savoury blueberry and raspberry fruit. Harvest September 17 to 21, taking in all the Merlot in four days, quite unusual but they knew rain was coming and wanted it to be in; they pick only in the morning to keep freshness, then Cabernet Franc September 30 and again one day October 7 (the drought slowed ripening more of the Cab Franc). A yield of 34hl/ha.

The 2019 Talbot is performing well, opening in the glass with aromas of earthy cassis, plums, burning embers and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a savory finish, it's Jean-Michel Laporte's second vintage at this sleeping giant of Saint-Julien. This will be an estate to watch closely going forward.

Well-built and rather refined for the vintage, with a deep well of red and black currant paste and plum reduction flavors supported by a deeply inlaid iron note, all of which run the length of the wine. Offers subtle savory, tobacco and singed cedar notes that add range, with a savory echo that leaves a mouthwatering feel in the end. Built to cellar.

Barrel Sample. A rich, spicy and smoky wine, this has generous tannins to balance the blackberry fruit flavors. The structure is already impressive, showing ripeness as well as density, which is promising for plenty of aging. (1/1/2020)

The 2019 Figeac has turned out brilliantly. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, cassis, warm spices, violets and pencil shavings, framed by a deft touch of nicely integrated new oak, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, powdery structuring tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, precise finish. Rich but vibrant, this 2019 reflects the new precision that Fr&#233;d&#233;ric Faye has brought to Figeac; but while it's richer and more polished than the wines of yesteryear, the estate's identity hasn't been lost.

Large-scaled, capturing all the rich and flamboyant cassis, steeped plum and blackberry reduction notes that are hallmarks of the vintage, along with a broad swath of loam and warm gravel underneath as tobacco and alder accents fill in wherever possible. Muscular and toothy along the edges but rock-solid in build, with enough fruit to round into form eventually. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2024 through 2040. 9,062 cases made.

Berry, tile and light stone aromas and flavors. Medium body. Fresh and refined with a long, classy and delicious finish. Pretty. Fine tannins give it length. 73% merlot, 27% cabernet franc. Drink or hold.

Produced from purchased fruit and vinified with one-third whole clusters, the 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes (n&#233;goce) bursts with aromas of raspberries, berries, woodsmoke and sweet soil tones. It's medium to full-bodied, succulent and fine-boned, with a delicate core of fruit framed by powdery tannins.

Deep garnet-purple coloured, the 2016 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron gives aromas of tar, saut&#233;ed herbs and earth over a cassis and baked cherries core. The palate is medium to full-bodied, firm and chewy, finishing with an herbal lift.

This is fleshy and caressing in feel, letting warm plum sauce and cassis notes roll along, lined with pretty violet and anise accents. There's a light tug of earth through the gently toasty finish, but this is pretty much all fruit and is ready to go.

Attractive, modern style with assorted, ripe summer berries, layered with upbeat, toasty oak. The palate is fresh and gently muscular tannins serve this wine well. Try from 2022.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in colour, the 2015 Echo de Lynch Bages has plenty of black fruits on the nose with an earthy undercurrent. The medium-bodied palate is firm and a bit hard with an herbal lift on the finish.

A textbook Pauillac, with a mix of gently steeped red and black currant fruit infused liberally with savory, bay leaf and tobacco notes. A racy graphite edge supports the finish.&nbsp;

Attractive dark berries with sweet, spicy oak that leads to a slick palate that delivers smooth tannins and a fresh, approachable finish. Try around 2021

The medium garnet-purple coloured 2016 La Parde de Haut-Bailly comes bursting out of the glass with cassis, redcurrant jelly, fragrant earth and dried Provence herbs scents plus a waft of lavender. Medium to full-bodied, firm, grainy textured and packed with fruit, it delivers a long and mineral-laced finish.

Polished and open in feel, with a lovely beam of pure plum and raspberry puree flavors inlaid with light tobacco and toasty vanilla notes. Subtle mesquite detail shows on the finish. Ready to go too. Drink now through 2028.

As to the second wine of Ch&acirc;teau Haut Bailly, it too is fabulous stuff in 2016. A blend of 47% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Le Prade de Haut Bailly offers notable purity as well as medium to full-bodied notes of blackcurrants, dried herbs, flowers, and spice. It&rsquo;s a layered, seamless wine from this estate that has no hard edges, beautiful balance, and a great finish. It&rsquo;s already delivering loads of pleasure but will keep for 15+ years.

Dark in profile, with some bacon and toast notes, this is nonetheless accessible in feel, with fleshy plum sauce and warm fig fruit flavors backed by cocoa and tobacco accents on the finish. Drink now through 2030. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

The second wine of Troplong Mondot and 100% Merlot, the 2016 Mondot reveals a deep, saturated purple color as well as a rocking nose of black cherries, graphite, chocolate, and scorched earth. Ripe, deep, and sexy, with sweet tannins, it&rsquo;s a rocking entry-level wine to drink over the coming 10-15 years. There are under 2,000 cases.

Medium to deep garnet-purple in colour, the 2016 Virginie de Valandraud offers gorgeous black cherries, mulberries and black raspberry scents with hints of star anise, violets and cumin seed. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is firmly structured with firm, velvety tannins and tons of freshness, lifting the perfumed black fruits to a long finish.

Very stylish, offering warmed raspberry and blackberry confiture notes infused with anise and black tea accents, all flowing nicely through the gently toasty finish. Drink now through 2030.

This is ripe and attractive with beautiful plum and dark-berry aromas that follow through to a full body, firm and medium, velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. Also slightly chewy at the end. Needs four to five years to soften. Try after 2023.

Medium garnet-purple in colour, the 2015 La Fleur de Bouard has a perfumed nose of violets and roses with a core of baked cherries, warm black raspberries, plums and spice box. The medium to full-bodied palate is soft and packed with fruit, finishing with an herbal lift.

Fleshy in feel, with plum sauce and steeped cherry notes gliding along, inlaid with singed cedar and sandalwood details. Light tea and mineral accents show on the finish. Drink now through 2022.

Inky fragrance. Very round and syrupy on palate entry. Only just the right side of appetising. Dry finish. But all stops have been pulled out! Just a slightly hot end.

The latest rendition of NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is excellent, offering up aromas of lemon oil, wet stones and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with good concentration, racy acids, an ultra-fine mousse and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is a classy introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier range.

A tangy overtone of pink grapefruit peel rides the fine mousse in this creamy Champagne. It's layered with a subtle mesh of apricot, lemon thyme and minerally brine and chalk notes. Well-cut and harmonious. Drink now through 2025.

Although it's not indicated on the label, this is a Blanc de Blancs from Chardonnay. It is warm and ripe, with a soft texture allied to fresh acidity. Orange and lemon zest give a great lift to this rounded wine.

Where is the lobster? The very complex mirabelle-tart and spice nose pulls you into this stunning dry riesling that beautifully balances vibrant acidity and ripeness that borders on the exotic. Very straight and long finish that&rsquo;s got a lot of mineral subtlety. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.

A creamy light- to medium-bodied white, with a concentrated core of spicy minerality tightly knit to flavors of ripe green melon, peach skin, slivered almond and candied Meyer lemon peel that expand on the palate. Its depth and focus belie its overall graceful form. Drink now through 2028.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025.&nbsp;

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025.&nbsp;

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Sleek, with a vein of mineral underlying lemon, apple and light spice flavors. Focused and harmonious, with the vibrant structure driving its lingering finish. Drink now through 2025.&nbsp;

Seductive, intense liquorice notes on the nose. Rich and broad start but nicely appetising with lime-juice notes. Nothing remotely scrawny about this.

Bight, pale yellow with depth, lighter on the rim. Bubbles are subtle and fine with persistence. This has a vibrant and elegant entry; lemon and pineapple aromas are slightly honied, melded with lemon peels, creamy autolysis and a hint of almond. Medium-bodied, aromas of pineapple, Meyer lemon intermix apricot and a touch of honey; unfolding whipped cream and toasted almond. The wine is harmonious with generous fruit and yeasty autolysis complexity. The mouthfeel is coated with chalky phenolics, integrated with lively acidity, carries the flavours to a long, refined finish. This is a serious Mehtode Ancestrale (p&#233;tillant naturale) with excellent purity of fruit and minerals, lively acidity and creamy feature. Match with pork cheek croquette and seafood in cream sauce over the next 3 years. Handpicked Chenin Blanc from old vines, zero dosage added. 13% alc, organic certified. 18.5+/20 pts

A fresh and expressive nose of elderflower, gooseberry and green apple. Almost spritzy on the palate, this has great energy with good acidity and flavours of more green apples and pears. Some creamy touches come in on the mid-palate giving nuance to the overall profile. Characterful and easy to enjoy.

A deep and rich nose, but so pure, clear and clean, it smells beautiful. The aromas really shine in the glass, too, with a texture that is smooth and supple, giving and generous. A powerful wine with excellent persistence from start to finish. Extremely youthful, tense and focused into one sleek line and, although you get ripe fruit - black berries, cassis, with some gorgeous bitter orange peel nuances - there's so much minty freshness too. Concentration but no overt heaviness, discreet power. I love the chalky, milk chocolate nuances - well built and complex with a clear backbone and long ageing potential. Brilliant winemaking on show.

Deep purple-black in colour, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines&mdash;a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!

A broad, rich, enticing wine, built on a core of exotic mulberry and loganberry notes laced with black tea, spices and incense. Rounded through the finish, with the fruit cruising through under a suave gloss of toast. A real crowd-pleaser, with a luxurious feel that makes this hard to lay off of now. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2038. 13,000 cases made.

Deep, purple-black colour. Profound wine with a mass of fruit and tannin. Gives little away at the moment. Broad and full on the palate then tightens to a long, persistent finish. Powerful but contained. Clearly loads of potential.

The 2020 Figeac is the finest wine that has been bottled to date at this estate since its renaissance began a decade ago. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, licorice and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a suave, harmonious profile, vibrant acids, and beautifully refined structuring tannins. This sapid, complex wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Two years after extensive soil studies of the estate were carried out, and the first growing season to see cover crops used in the vineyards year-round, the 2020 benefited from more coherently demarcated parcels and more precise &#233;levage, which taken together help to account for its edge over the excellent 2019.&nbsp;

A broad-shouldered wine that captures the vintage's heat well in a core of cassis and blackberry fruit flavors, which are dotted with lively savory, tobacco leaf and warm earth accents. Reveals a tarry, grippy edge as well as polish as this pulls deeply from its terroir, leaving an echo of warm paving stone at the very end. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Grand Vin 2020 Ch&acirc;teau Figeac checks in as 37% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 31% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 18 months in new barrels. They also utilize plenty of press wine, and the 2020 has 8% in the blend. Straight-up awesome aromatics of cr&egrave;me de cassis, ripe black cherries, iron, spring flowers, and an almost bloody, salty character emerge from the glass, and it's full-bodied, with a seamless mouthfeel, gorgeous tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and absolutely perfectly integrated oak. It's still tight and reserved, which is certainly the vintage, so do your best to hide these in the cellar. It should hit the early stages of its prime drinking window in 8-10 years and will have 30+ of overall longevity. It will unquestionably flirt with perfection at maturity. 98+

The 2020 Haut-Brion is more aromatically demonstrative than La Mission Haut-Brion, bursting with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with licorice, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's rich and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit that's girdled by plenty of sweet, powdery tannin. Despite checking in at a similarly lofty alcoholic degree to the 2019, its more granular tannic profile tempers the vintage's sweetness of fruit and lends the wine a more classically proportioned, and more classically structured, profile.&nbsp;

Dark ruby garnet, purple reflections, deep core, delicate rim brightening. Dark wild berries, a touch of noble wood, ripe cherries, delicate floral nuances of candied purple fruit, sweet tobacco, very inviting bouquet. Complex, juicy, red berry texture, well-integrated, ripe tannins, fine sweetness on the finish, already seems very at peace with itself, great length, a great food companion, secure future. (2025-2065).

One of the wines of the vintage is the 2020 La Conseillante, a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc that wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of raspberries, red cherries and mulberries mingled with exotic spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and vibrant, it's a beautifully elegant, sensual wine with a deep core of fruit framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a long, extravagantly floral finish. This is a Pomerol of striking purity and sophistication. Congratulations to Marielle Cazaux and her team for surpassing even what they achieved in 2016 and 2019 with this brilliant 2020! 2027 - 2060

Deep ruby colour with opaque core, purple reflections. Delicate notes of tobacco and herbal spice back black cherry fruit, some nougat, candied orange zest. On the palate this is juicy and elegant with a fine chocolatey texture, ripe tannins, good freshness, silky and long lasting, mineral, very well balanced, certain aging potential.

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, red fruits, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's intensely flavored but weightless, with a compelling sense of harmony and a long, orange-inflected finish. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, it was vinified with some 65% whole bunch and attained 13.5% alcohol. This is the first vintage where Pouthier's methods (whole bunch with weighted cap and long &#233;levage incorporating larger vessels) were applied writ large, and the results are striking. 2025 - 2055

Deep crimson colour. Slightly reserved aromatically but floral notes (lily, iris) as it opens. Dense with a beautifully suave texture, the tannins powerful but refined. Luscious but fresh and long on the finish, the oak (70% new barrels) completely absorbed. Both seductive and restrained. Marked freshness for the year. Will need to check the evolution.

The 2020 Ch&acirc;teau Margaux is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, accounting for 36% of the harvest. The alcohol weighs in at 13.5%, the IPT is 80 and the pH is 3.67. Displaying an opaque purple-black colour, it needs a lot of air, time and patience to coax out the youthfully reticent nose of blueberry preserves, blackcurrant pastilles and Black Forest cake, followed by suggestions of lavender, clove oil, iron ore and menthol with wafts of star anise and candied violets. The medium to full-bodied palate is wonderfully opulent, featuring tightly wound yet beautifully pure layers of black fruits and earthy nuances within a solid structure of firm yet velvety tannins and exhilarating freshness, finishing with very long-lingering earth and mineral notes. Another stunning expression of the vintage by Philippe Bascaules and his team&mdash;bravo!

Gorgeous wine that is both classic and expressive. Aromatically complex with floral, mineral and dark-fruit notes. Quality of tannins superb from entry to finish, the texture smooth and velvety. Lovely freshness, poise and length. Perfect pitch. Definitely has the edge on 2019 and 2018.&nbsp;

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black colored 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin.&nbsp;Barrel Sample,&nbsp;98-100

Exotic and lush in feel, with well-steeped plum, boysenberry and blackberry fruit flavors rolling through, scored with hints of espresso crema, dark tobacco and black licorice along the way. Very polished in feel, but with a late flicker of savory and a subtle tug of earth to keep this honest in the end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2026

Cask sample.&nbsp;Creamy, generous style where the Sauvignon is ripe rather than herbal, which works well. Succulent acidity still gives refreshment on the finish. Drinkable now, but has a decade of potential too.&nbsp;

Exuberant, with generous plum sauce, licorice root, blackberry compote and apple wood notes vying for attention, as graphite and cast iron accents drive along underneath. Reveals a little flash of exotic toast that snazzes up the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. *Highly Recommended

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

A strong effort, the 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc wafts from the glass with aromas of nectarine, pear, lemongrass, Sauvignon botanicals, toasted bread and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's rich and concentrated, with ripe acids and chalky structuring extract. It's not quite as vibrant and precise as the 2019, but it's a success nonetheless.&nbsp; / The 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% S&#233;millon. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in French oak, 50% new, within which it will age for 12 months on lees with b&acirc;tonnage before spending a further two to three months in tank. It prances out of the glass with vivacious notes of lime blossoms, Golden Delicious apples and green mango, plus hints of coriander seed, shaved ginger and wet pebbles. The medium-bodied palate possesses lovely harmony even at this nascent stage, featuring bright apple and citrus flavors with soft acidity and a chalky finish.

Suave and caressing in feel, this drapes beautifully, with creamed yellow apple, gooseberry and lemon curd notes on the flattering side, offset by hints of tarragon, blanched almond and salted butter on the racier side. The finish is enhanced with paraffin and smoke hints. Sauvignon Blanc, S&#233;millon and Sauvignon Gris. Drink now through 2030.

Adrian van Velsen - vvWine.ch: This wine simply left me speechless and I rate it even higher than En Primeur. Incredibly deep and noble, smoky notes combine with cool terroir notes, pebbles and flint, white flowers, resinous aromas, citrus of blossom honey and coniferous wood. At the beginning with a lot of pressure, it becomes more and more elegant, creamy melt, fresh acidity, that has density and power, but not a gram of fat, a tightrope walker, controlled, structured, with a salty finish. What a beauty! 2024-2034+ (Tasted on November 8, 2022 in Zurich)

Pale lemon colour. Very zesty and bright on the nose &ndash; this is all grapefruit and lemon pith. The palate follows in fruit profile. The acidity is positively brisk, washing away any fat from the S&#233;millon. What remains is a wine of delicacy, refinement and drive. It is already a pleasure to drink.

Bright and pure, with white peach, Key lime, verbena and tarragon accents that marry well, finishing with a suave and lingering feel. Distinctive and alluring in the end. Sauvignon Blanc and S&#233;millon. Drink now through 2025.

Perfumed, floral nose with an innate sweetness that stays through to the palate. Perhaps not quite as fragrant as 2018. Round and flattering on the palate, the attack direct, texture smooth and tannins finely honed. Point of acidity for freshness. Decent length.

The opaque blue/purple-coloured 2011 Palmer reveals a stunning bouquet of licorice, truffles, camphor, spring flowers, black raspberries and black currants. One of the superstars of the vintage, this brilliant 2011 possesses superb concentration and purity, medium to full body, and remarkable length of close to a minute. A tour de force in winemaking, the Palmer team merits accolades for achieving this level of quality in a more challenging vintage than either 2009 or 2010. The wine of the vintage in Margaux, tiny yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, a final blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a severe selection (only 55% of the production made it into Palmer) are the reasons for this success.

A serious and concentrated wine that is one of the stars of the vintage. With its tight tannins and a considerable sense of structure, it shows a dark and dense side. It's full in the mouth, black plum skins and intense acidity giving a lilt of freshness at the end. Drink from 2019.&nbsp;

The 2018 Mondot, 100% Merlot, is a fabulous second wine. Rich and luscious to the core, the 2018 is brisk and vibrant, with remarkable nuances and tons of saline-infused energy. Floral and spice notes add perfume to red cherry/plum fruit. Half of the wine comes from Troplong Mondot itself and the other half is sourced from two adjacent parcels that may in time be incorporated into the estate. Look for Mondot to be one of the stars among Bordeaux's more affordable 2018s. More than anything else, in 2018 Mondot is flat-out delicious.

Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, this is one of a pair of second wines from this estate. With its classic Pauillac black-currant flavors and dense tannins, the wine is a slow developer. By 2025, it should show great fruits and a balanced texture.

Strong ruby garnet, faint ochre reflections, broader brightening on the rim. Attractive bouquet with delicate toasty aromas, fine notes of cassis and blackberry confit and a hint of nougat. Juicy palate with ripe red cherry, velvety, plump tannins, pleasant ripeness and freshness on the finish, mineral and long. Good aging potential.

Strong ruby garnet, faint ochre reflections, broader brightening on the rim. Attractive bouquet with delicate toasty aromas, fine notes of cassis and blackberry confit and a hint of nougat. Juicy palate with ripe red cherry, velvety, plump tannins, pleasant ripeness and freshness on the finish, mineral and long. Good aging potential.

Composed of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc and without any new oak, the very deep purple-black coloured 2018 Echo de Lynch Bages rolls seductively out of the glass with fragrant notes of candied violets, rose hip tea and fragrant soil over a core of crushed blackberries, warm blackcurrants and kirsch plus wafts of chocolate mint and crushed rocks. Full, rich, wonderfully concentrated and well structured, it has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing long.

The dark plum and cassis fruit is focused and fresh, lined with subtle tobacco and incense hints. Light dusty and sanguine accents emerge on finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now.

Tasted blind. Perfumed. Correct if a tiny bit soulless on the palate. A little bit of sourness. As though some of the fruit had been sucked out of this. Very drying finish.

Bright, ripe and defined, with bay, violet, cassis and dark plum fruit all racing along in unison. Excellent energy and tension through the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2028. 18,335 cases made.

Round and already aromatically expressive with dark-fruit and liquorice notes. All the signs of a solar vintage, the fruit generous and mouth-coating, an inherent sweetness and slight glow of alcohol on the finish. Fine, light tannins with a little graininess on the end.

Dark ruby garnet, ochre reflections, broader lightening on the rim. Tobacco on the nose with fine noble wood, dark berry fruit, black cherry and notes of cedar. Medium body, hints of ripe plum, integrated tannins, mineral and fresh on the finish. Good aging potential.

From an important part of the Giscours vineyard that is outside Margaux, this wine gives an echo of the quality and style that makes the top wine so impressive. The suave tannins have a fine structure and support the rich black currant fruits. It is a wine to age for a few years and drink from 2024.

This sleek, light- to medium-bodied white is richly aromatic, with slate and saline notes that expand on the creamy palate, underscoring flavors of Gala apple, anise, slivered almond and honeysuckle. Lithe and lovely. Drink now through 2029.

Aromas of lilacs, slate and dried apple follow through to a medium body with vivid flavors and intense fruit and citrus at the finish. Tight and exciting. Better in a couple years to come together but rejoice in its youthful vigor. Drink now. Made from organically grown grapes. Demeter approved.

Bright, medium straw-yellow, even colour throughout. The nose is gently full and lightly oxidative in style, with aromas of tropical fruit, dried flowers and honey. Medium-bodied, aromas of melon and papaya intertwined with a hint of lemon, dried floral and honey. The mouthfeel is light textural with dusty, soft phenolics; ripe acidity carries freshness to a grounded, dry closing. Match with poultry and smoked fish over the next 2-3 years. Made from Mauzac, Loin de l'oeil and Muscadelle from Gaillac in the southwest of France, grown in biodynamic principles, indigenous yeasts fermented to 12.5% alc, lightly sulphured before bottling. 18+/20 pts (91pts) Oct 2023.

This is also sufficiently ripe to partially display fruit from the yellow side of the spectrum along with spice, citrus confit and floral scents. The rich and solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors are at once succulent yet nicely detailed while delivering impressive persistence on the balanced and youthfully austere finale. Once again, more depth would be beneficial but again, that should reasonably occur. In a word, lovely.

Elegant, pure and airy aromas display notes of passion fruit, honeysuckle, smoky mineral reduction and white peach. The generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence while exhibiting excellent focus on the sappy, highly persistent and beautifully refined finale. This is both extremely stylish and classy and while it could use a bit more depth, the potential aging curve is such that better complexity will almost certainly develop. In a word, gorgeous.

Ginger, spice, and honeysuckle notes. A refreshing and juicy acidity with an attractive phenolic grip on the finish.

A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 La Fleur Petrus (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) is a remarkably sexy, opulent wine that transcends the vintage character. Its dense plum/ruby/purple colour is accompanied by notes of sweet black cherries, licorice, truffles and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied with silky tannin as well as undeniable appeal, richness, purity and a 40+ second finish, this is a sure-fire big buy in 2008. Drink it over the next 20+ years.

Fresh and racy, with the slightly angular feel of the vintage, though this has filled out nicely, allowing bitter plum, cherry paste and singed alder notes to meld nicely. Still young, though not in the league of the top vintages. Nonetheless, there's some lovely perfume, fruit and overall elegance here.&mdash;Non-blind La Fleur-P&#233;trus vertical (December 2015).

90-92 Barrel sample. A dense, finely structured wine, the tannins offering dark fruit. Initially it seems austere, but then ripe fruit piles in lifting the final taste.

A major sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 La Fleur Petrus (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) is a remarkably sexy, opulent wine that transcends the vintage character. Its dense plum/ruby/purple colour is accompanied by notes of sweet black cherries, licorice, truffles and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied with silky tannin as well as undeniable appeal, richness, purity and a 40+ second finish, this is a sure-fire big buy in 2008. Drink it over the next 20+ years.

Fresh and racy, with the slightly angular feel of the vintage, though this has filled out nicely, allowing bitter plum, cherry paste and singed alder notes to meld nicely. Still young, though not in the league of the top vintages. Nonetheless, there's some lovely perfume, fruit and overall elegance here.&mdash;Non-blind La Fleur-P&#233;trus vertical (December 2015).

90-92 Barrel sample. A dense, finely structured wine, the tannins offering dark fruit. Initially it seems austere, but then ripe fruit piles in lifting the final taste.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium garnet-purple coloured 2016 Certan de May offers up notes of wild blueberries, black cherries and raspberry leaves with hints of black tea, roses and tar. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers a wonderful quiet intensity of blue, red and black fruits plus a fine-grained backbone and superb freshness, delivery and very long, mineral-tinged finish.

A deeply intense and plush Pomerol with immaculately ripe fruit and tannins. So well executed with aromas of truffle, dark stones, coal smoke and intense dark plums and cocoa powder. The palate has an immaculate texture with very bright, velvety tannins, carrying rich dark plums. Plum pudding and Christmas cake to close.

Tasted blind. Looks a little thin at the rim. Smells herbal. Good front palate attack and not overdone. Some may reproach this for being too simple but the balance is good. Very clean and healthy.

Ripe and racy, with a graphite streak that drives the core of cassis and plum fruit along, picking up an anise edge on the finish. Not big, but fresh and well-defined. Shows some sneaky grip. Best from 2018 through 2026. 8,335 cases made.

Tasted blind. Roundness from the Merlot. Very flattering and evolved. Some drama and attractive inkiness after a good charge of ripe fruit. Fine tannins on the end.

Green-fruit sensation on the nose. Then really pretty rich on the palate! Climate change is alive and well in this bottle; it's so ripe it almost tastes a little sweet. But it's also super-charming, so long as you dismiss from your mind the archetypal mineral, bone-dry, classic&nbsp;Sancerre. Very charming wine that was definitely well made.

Green-fruit sensation on the nose. Then really pretty rich on the palate! Climate change is alive and well in this bottle; it's so ripe it almost tastes a little sweet. But it's also super-charming, so long as you dismiss from your mind the archetypal mineral, bone-dry, classic&nbsp;Sancerre. Very charming wine that was definitely well made.

Bright, pale yellow, even colour throughout. This has a gentle, calming bouquet, with aromas of stonefruit, apple and citrus, underlying floral, minerals and lanolin. Medium-bodied, stonefruit, apple and lemon aromas are well-proportioned, melded with ginger, cardamom, honeysuckle, lanolin and minerals. The mouthfeel is voluptuous and unctuous, made of chalky minerals and ripe phenolics. Beautifully gentle acidity and a creamy texture carry the flavours and minerals to a lengthy finish. This is a textural Chenin Blanc shows excellent fruit, spice and minerals on a voluptuous palate. Match with smoked oysters and pork head terrine over the next 5-8 years. Estate vineyard, 100% Chenin Blanc, 30-50 y.o. vine age, handpicked, indigenous yeast fermented in amphorae and aged on fine lees for 6 months.&nbsp;

Cool, airy and restrained aromas are composed by notes of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, lemon-lime, exotic tea, especially jasmine and a hint of tangerine peel. The dense, indeed almost thick and unctuous, medium-bodied plus flavors possess unusually good power in the context of what is typical for Perri&egrave;res, all wrapped in a hugely long bitter citrus-inflected, stony and tightly wound finale. This is stunningly good and absolutely worth your interest. *Burghound Don't Miss Outstanding!*

A slightly riper mix features notes of both white and yellow peach, acacia blossom and plenty of exotic spice nuances, and in particular jasmine. The sleek, intense and beautifully precise broad-shouldered flavors deliver stunningly good length on the compact and superbly well-balanced finale. This is presently very, very backward, which is just as well as more depth does need to develop but that shouldn't be an issue if at least some forbearance is exercised. Assuming this stunner of a B&acirc;tard fulfills its potential, the word brilliant comes to mind.

Composed of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Grenache, and 7% Counoise, the 2018 Odyss&#233;e has a deep garnet colour, bursting from the glass with a whole array of exotic spices notes&mdash;cumin seed, star anise, cardamom and cassia&mdash;over a core of stewed black plums, warm cassis and blackberry preserves, with hints of dark chocolate, lavender and tapenade. The full-bodied palate is jam-packed with concentrated black and blue fruits, framed by firm, rounded tannins and beautiful freshness, finishing very long with a peppery kick. A little more structured than previous vintages and with such impressive concentration, this should easily cellar 25 years or more.

Tasted blind. Charry blackberries on the nose with structure and real follow-through. Some St-Est&#233;phe stoniness discernible through the fruit. Long.

Deep purple-black in colour, the 2018 Virginie de Valandraud opens a little broody with notes of damp soil, truffles and chargrill, opening up to display stewed plums, blackberry tart and plum preserves plus nuances of espresso, Marmite toast, tapenade and wild sage. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a rock-solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness lifting the rich, decadent fruit to a long finish.

A finely textured Champagne, this is definitely dry, still young, and with great potential. The wine's minerality combines with the texture to give both tension and richness.

From a single vineyard in Chambolle Musigny &ndash; 50-60 year old vines. Deep red colours, clear. Red fruits and floral notes, ground spices, mild reduction. Velvet tannins, liquorice, anise, cherry, great acid balance and fine grained mouthfeel. Savoury, gamey meat tones with air and smoked flavours develop, overall lovely balance of tannins, fruit and acidity delivers moderate length and concentration on the palate. - Brandon Nash, May 2023

Wafting from the glass with scents of raspberries, plums, wild berries and sweet soil tones, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes (n&#233;goce) is medium to full-bodied, with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins underpinning its succulent core of fruit. It's a promising cuv&#233;e. The 2019s, according to Laurent Lignier, possess all the characteristics of great Pinot Noir, and that's an analysis with which I would concur. He has once again produced a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and n&#233;gociant sources the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pig&#233;age and one r&#233;montage per day and maturation in barrels, some third of which are new if possible, without racking for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. Lignier began picking on September 16, and alcohol levels range between 13.5% and 14.7%, the latter extreme representing the exception rather than the rule. Tasting through the wines, the vast majority of which were in barrel and had not been racked, the most obvious analogy was with the domaine's 2015s at the same stage but I look forward to revisiting them from bottle to confirm that impression.

Discreet wood sets off more elegant and layered aromas of both red and blue pinot fruit that are laced with hints of violet and spice. There is very good energy and delineation to the nicely mineral-driven and solidly powerful medium weight flavors that display hints of rusticity and youthful austerity on the balanced, complex and lingering finale. This is a fine Chambolle villages and worth a look. *Burghound Outstanding!*

Airy and elegant aromas freely offer up their nuances of exotic tea, spice and essence of white peach. The elegance continues onto the refined, pure and energetic middle weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the balanced and harmonious finish that displays excellent length. This beautiful effort is quite Zen-like. Drink from 2027. (Jun 2022)

A wonderfully fresh and expressive nose is classic aligot&#233; with its spicy green apple and citrusy aromas. The racy, intense and utterly delicious middle weight flavors possess a subtle minerality that seems to build on the bright, dry, linear and chiseled finish. This is a very good example of the genre.

Smoky, spicy, and youthfully ripe. Flavours of cassis, black currant, dark berry fruits and a funky gaminess. 12% alcohol.

Made from a unique clone of Gamay Noir known as "Saint Romain" from the northwest of Lyon. Ripe, rounded and soft with black cherry, cassis and savoury barnyardy hints.

Bright, yellow with a gold sheen, slightly lighter edged. The bouquet is softly penetrating stonefruit, citrus, white blossom and a hint of mineral. Medium-bodied, the palate is mineral-driven, entwined with white peach, lemon and pink grapefruit, rich white floral enriched the presence along with graphite. The palate is crisp and crunchy, reflects acid tension and mineral textured mouthfeel. The fruit is pure with balanced ripeness and acidity. This is a neat Chardonnay with pure fruit expression, rich floral and a crunchy mineral line. Match with butterfish and pork dumplings over the next 3 years.

Very deep purple-black coloured, the 2020 la Fleur-Petrus leaps from the glass with bold expressions of baked black plums, molten licorice, Indian spices and blackberry preserves, plus hints of charcuterie, black olives and crushed rocks with a touch of unsmoked cigars. The full-bodied palate delivers compelling tension to the rich, hedonic black fruits, framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing very long and tantalizingly savory.

Second sample:&nbsp;fresher, the fruit very much to the fore, the nose fruity and expressive. Plentiful but fine, filigree tannins ensure a refined but present structure. Freshness and overall harmony. Good potential.

Very deep purple-black coloured, the 2020 la Fleur-Petrus leaps from the glass with bold expressions of baked black plums, molten licorice, Indian spices and blackberry preserves, plus hints of charcuterie, black olives and crushed rocks with a touch of unsmoked cigars. The full-bodied palate delivers compelling tension to the rich, hedonic black fruits, framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing very long and tantalizingly savory.

Second sample:&nbsp;fresher, the fruit very much to the fore, the nose fruity and expressive. Plentiful but fine, filigree tannins ensure a refined but present structure. Freshness and overall harmony. Good potential.

On the 2018: Elegant and silky, but with a chalky mineral crunch behind the notes of persimmon, vanilla spice, daisy and honeydew. Hints of cardamom and savory mineral add to the complexity as this firms up on the long, mouthwatering finish.

On the 2018: Vincent Car&#233;me is one of the most dynamic producers in the Vouvray appellation, where a good number are content to rest on Vouvray's reputation concentrating on making mediocre sparkling wine for the supermarkets.

Aromas and flavours of fresh and preserved plums, a mix of blackberry fruits then clay and mineralised soil qualities. There&rsquo;s also a mix of red flowers and peppery spices. Dry with medium+ body/weight, acidity and tannins deliver just the right level of structure and mouthfeel for the fruit and spice flavour qualities. Balanced and well made, ready to drink and an easy option for food pairing. Best drinking from 2024 through 2028+.

&nbsp;Like the Volnay, this is sufficiently reduced to render the nose is difficult to assess. The suave, rich yet solidly delineated medium-bodied flavors deliver fine length and better complexity on the moderately tightly wound, firm and youthfully austere finale.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Ros&#233; Cuv&#233;e Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamless and pillowy, with bright acids and a pure, precise profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. In 2009, it was vinified entirely in stainless steel. Drink&nbsp;2022 - 2035.

An elegant ros&#233; Champagne that seamlessly knits juicy acidity and fine-grained texture with a subtle, smoke-laced underpinning and a delicate mesh of wild strawberry, kirsch, mandarin orange peel and toasted brioche flavors. Harmonious, with an open-knit, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

A wonderfully open nose immediately presents ripe red currant framed by notions as various as fresh gingerbread, iron oxide, berry sherbet, orange peel, candied tangerine and caramel: richness and freshness united. The palate is smooth with fine, vivid effervescence that propels the wine&rsquo;s inherent freshness continually to the surface, both countering and complementing a certain roundness, a certain gourmandise that shimmers with red fruit, ripe, aromatic citrus and stony spice. A most gastronomic Champagne that will evolve beautifully. Tasted 2022.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Rose Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices, and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamle

A slightly flinty and vibrant bouquet alongside complex aromas of red berries, herbs and lemon, with fresh menthol notes coming through with some air. The palate is wonderful and elegant, with a vinous texture and a superb, calcareous finish. A blend of 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir (including 9% vinified as red wine), this Champagne, which has a dosage of 7g/L, is made for ageing. Tasted 7 November, 2022.

The 2014 Latour is one of the very finest wines of a vintage that favored the northern M&#233;doc. Mingling aromas of wild berries and cassis with hints of cigar wrapper, loamy soil, black truffles and classy new oak, it&rsquo;s full-bodied, rich and concentrated, its broad attack segueing into a deep, tightly wound mid-palate that&rsquo;s framed by powdery, chalky tannins and bright acids, concluding with a long, mouth watering finish. This classically balanced, youthfully structured young wine looks set to enjoy prodigious longevity. It&rsquo;s reminiscent of a modern-day version of a cooler vintage such as 1996, though of course these days maturity is more complete and selection even more rigorous than was the case two decades ago.

This shows terrific cut and drive from the start, with mouthwatering acidity and a chiseled graphite note leading the way, backed by a core of pure cassis and blackberry preserves. Licorice snap and sweet tobacco details flitter through the finish, where the graphite edge reemerges and sails on and on. Best from 2022 through 2040. 7,632 cases made

The tannins in this fine vintage of Latour are still enormous, dominating the black currant fruit. It has spice, tannins, impressive fruit and a pure, cool character. To be released in the mid-2020s, the wine is likely to age for many years. Enjoy from 2027.&nbsp;

A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elder flower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Dried fruit, pure and direct. Succulent and juicy, super-concentrated length. Lighter than usual, but no compromise on the complexity. It has the magic of Yquem in a slim-fit package. Not the most hedonistic, but certainly in the top class of Sauternes.

Is the 2019 Ch&acirc;teau Margaux the wine of the vintage? A strong case in its favor could certainly be made. Soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, rose petals, violets, pencil shavings and vine smoke, it's full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a strikingly vibrant core of fruit that's framed by ripe, powdery tannins and bright acids, concluding with a penetrating, mouthwateringly saline finish of almost interminable duration. Complex, elegant and utterly compelling, this is a brilliant Bordeaux that anyone with the requisite disposable income is going to want to own.

Pretty gorgeous, with a cashmere feel right from the get-go as pure, unadulterated cassis, plum reduction and blackberry preserve notes sail through. The finish is laced with alluring red and black tea, violet, incense and savory notes, with a subtle mineral hint lingering to the very end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038. 10,833 cases made.

Deep colour to the rim. Super fragrance, the aromas pure and persistent with typical Cabernet cassis and graphite notes. Rich and full across the palate but definitely more freshness than the Pavillon. Plentiful tannins provide the drive but absolutely no aggression. Aromatic freshness on the finish aids persistence and length.

Is the 2019 Ch&acirc;teau Margaux the wine of the vintage? A strong case in its favor could certainly be made. Soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, rose petals, violets, pencil shavings and vine smoke, it's full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a strikingly vibrant core of fruit that's framed by ripe, powdery tannins and bright acids, concluding with a penetrating, mouthwateringly saline finish of almost interminable duration. Complex, elegant and utterly compelling, this is a brilliant Bordeaux that anyone with the requisite disposable income is going to want to own.

Pretty gorgeous, with a cashmere feel right from the get-go as pure, unadulterated cassis, plum reduction and blackberry preserve notes sail through. The finish is laced with alluring red and black tea, violet, incense and savory notes, with a subtle mineral hint lingering to the very end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2038. 10,833 cases made.

Deep colour to the rim. Super fragrance, the aromas pure and persistent with typical Cabernet cassis and graphite notes. Rich and full across the palate but definitely more freshness than the Pavillon. Plentiful tannins provide the drive but absolutely no aggression. Aromatic freshness on the finish aids persistence and length.

A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elder flower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Dried fruit, pure and direct. Succulent and juicy, super-concentrated length. Lighter than usual, but no compromise on the complexity. It has the magic of Yquem in a slim-fit package. Not the most hedonistic, but certainly in the top class of Sauternes.

A special wine right from the start, this glistens with pure papaya, mango, white peach and mirabelle plum, joined by elder flower honey, toasted macadamia nut and orange blossom notes. Ends with a remarkably long finish. Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now.

Dried fruit, pure and direct. Succulent and juicy, super-concentrated length. Lighter than usual, but no compromise on the complexity. It has the magic of Yquem in a slim-fit package. Not the most hedonistic, but certainly in the top class of Sauternes.

The 2016 Les Forts de Latour is superb, unwinding in the glass with notions of blackcurrants, wild berries, sweet loamy soil, cigar wrapper and English walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it&rsquo;s concentrated and tightly wound, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins. This is an impeccably balanced, utterly classical Forts de Latour worth a special effort to seek out.

&nbsp;A bit fleshier and more caressing than a typical Pauillac, this has flavors of warm fig, currant and blackberry preserves inlaid with charcoal and smoldering tobacco notes. There's grip for sure and a twinge of warm cast iron on the finish, but the fruit detail keeps the upper hand throughout, showcasing the purity on the finish. Very, very solid.

94&ndash;96. Barrel Sample. This is a great wine, with superb tannins and rich fruit flavors that are in balance. Made from 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, the palate is dominated by black-currant flavor and a pleasant structure from the very fine tannins.&nbsp;

Hints of wax and crushed almond impart a rich, creamy edge to flavors of yellow apple and pear fruit, salty mineral and anise in this lively, light-bodied white. Drink now through 2025.

This lively wine starts with aromas of ocean spray on rocks. Savory and mineral characteristics come through on the palate, as well as a bright streak of acid and intriguing hint of anise. The acid and salinity make this wine a great pairing for fried foods.&nbsp;

A very attractive Vouvray that offers a pleasurable contrast of ripe (apricot) and less ripe (green apple) flavours as well as a contrast between moderate sweetness and refreshing acidity. Great cellaring potential.

Fudge and apple-pie nose &ndash; rich and seductive. Yet much tighter and fresher in the mouth. The apple-pie and buttery flaky-pastry notes are cut with lime, under-cut by lime leaf and cobnuts. A lovely savoury underlay. And galangal: root, spice, tang, cool-heat. Lots of texture, like the tug of an old silk curtain. And edgy, baobab-tangy mouth-filling acidity. Seville oranges sewing in a fine seam of bitterness, fresh blanched almonds bringing cream and density. Complex, exciting, beautifully balanced, and beautifully refreshing. The perfect pork-roast wine (failing that, a packet of top-quality pork scratchings will do&hellip;).&nbsp;

Bright, even, pale yellow with a light green hue. The bubbles are vibrant and consistent. The bouquet is full, creamy, underlying stonefruit, citrus, floral and yeasty elements. Medium-bodied, dry to taste, aromas of peach, apricot and lemon melded with ginger, bread dough and whipped cream. Chalky minerals cling to the side of the palate and leave a silky mouthfeel. The fruit shows purity and balanced ripeness; creamy features broaden the body and weight. This L'Ancestrale is well-made, shows excellent fruit and mineral details, and has a creamy, pleasing finish. Match with creamy chicken pie and white fish with beurre blanc over the next 2-3 years. 100% Chenin Blanc, made from Methode Ancestrale, 13% alc.

Elegant and silky, but with a chalky mineral crunch behind the notes of persimmon, vanilla spice, daisy and honeydew. Hints of cardamom and savory mineral add to the complexity as this firms up on the long, mouthwatering finish. Best from 2022 through 2033.&nbsp;

Right at the dry end of the useful scale on the back label of the bottle, this wine is, however, soft and full of fruit. With its acidity still developing, the wine's future is assured. Drink from 2021.

A wine built for the cellar, the 2017 Moulin-&agrave;-Vent Clos de Rochegr&egrave;s unfurls in the glass with a rich bouquet of ripe berry fruit, spices, candied peel and dark chocolate. On the plate, it's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit, ripe acids and a chewy chassis of tannin that will require some patience. Impressively, this Moulin-&agrave;-Vent has already largely integrated its new wood, and though it's a high wire act in terms of alcohol and extraction, I suspect it will evolve positively in the cellar. Drink 2022-2040 (Tasted 2019)

This wood-aged wine comes from 45-year-old vines in one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Rich and beautifully structured, it has tannins and a firm structure that point to aging. Wait to drink this wine until 2022. Roger Voss

Deep, clear ruby-red, lighter on edge, youthful. The nose is soft and pure, greeted with red cherry, red berry melded with sweet spice and a hint of earth. Medium-light bodied, aromas of cherry, red berry interweaved vanilla, cinnamon and a hint of earthy, nutty element. The fruit is youthful, supported by gentle, lively acidity. A moderate grip of silky tannin shows a youthful structure. This C&#244;te de Beaune-Villages shows youthful varietal development, with a fine structure and silky grip. Match with duck and pigeon over the next 5 years. Handpicked, hand-sorted, destemmed, cold-soaked for 3-4 weeks in oak cuve and stainless steel vats, aged around 18 months, approx one-third new oak. 13% alc. 18/20 pts

Aromas of dark cherries, blackberries, mulberries and warm spices preface the 2017 Morgon C&#244;te du Py, a deep, full-bodied wine with superb concentration, succulent acids and a richly extracted chassis of powdery tannin that asserts itself on the youthfully chewy finish. This is a Morgon built for the cellar and emphatically not designed for immediate gratification, but the wine's purity and integration confirm the promise it showed from barrel.

Very pretty aromas of crushed berries and spices with some shitake-mushroom undertones. Medium body, light tannins and a creamy texture. Orange-peel and berry aftertaste. Wet-earth nuances.

Aged for twelve months in 400 l barrels, this well-born cuv&#233;e will allow you to fully enjoy it over the next decade. In a very dark colour with amethyst reflections, it delivers a very beautiful nose mixing small red and black fruits (morello cherry, raspberry, blueberry) with fresh minty notes. On the palate, the greediness is there. A suave and generous flesh coats silky tannins with just the right amount of freshness. A nice wine to lay down.

Bright, pale yellow with depth and a gold hue, even colour throughout. The nose is appealing and pure, with aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and stonefruit. Light-bodied, aromas of honeysuckle and blossom intertwined with apricot, lychee and honey. The fruit is pure with blossom and exotic aromas, supported by lively acidity and a lightly vicious flow. Serve chilled and match with pavlova and panna cotta over the next 2-4 years. Muscat a petits grains, 15% alc, organic farming. Nov 2022

An excellent wine, with classic aromas of crushed stone, cassis, espresso and black olives. It's full-bodied, fine and silky, giving an impression of great elegance on the lingering finish.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.

An excellent wine, with classic aromas of crushed stone, cassis, espresso and black olives. It's full-bodied, fine and silky, giving an impression of great elegance on the lingering finish.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.

From 25-year-old vines in Tournon, the 2020 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes features scents of crushed stone, cassis and blackberries. It&rsquo;s full-bodied but restrained, almost austere, without being hard or unwelcoming, then finishes long and silky. This could use some time, but it looks to be a beauty and one of the better values among the Jaboulet lineup. May 2024

Stunning nose of wild flowers and wild herbs with touches of graphite and licorice. This isn&rsquo;t quite as austere as some examples of this appellation, but you need to like tannins and stony minerality to appreciate this sleek and highly structured Northern Rhone syrah. So much mineral freshness at the long, expressive finish. Limited production. From biodynamically grown grapes.

A 60-40 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne that aged exclusively in concrete, the 2020 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg features some slightly leesy aromas, plus hints of underripe pear, anise and citrus. Picked early and weighing in at only 13% alcohol, it's a crisp, medium-bodied, tight, yet elegant effort that bears little resemblance to most modern-day white Hermitages.

Jasmine, white peaches, apricots, bananas, crushed stones, almonds and lemon pith on the nose. Shells too. It's medium- to full-bodied with a fresh, vibrant palate. Firm and mineral. From organically grown grapes. Try from 2023.

Smoky aromas of apple, pear and lemon rind give way to attractively textured flavors that terminate in a solidly complex, clean, dry and equally refreshing finish. This is also worth a look.

Five varieties go into this ripe and full-bodied blend. The red fruits have a tang of pepper as well as perfumed acidity.

Grown on the famed Kimmeridgian chalk of Sancerre, this wine is intense, tightly wound with young fruits and acidity. With its power, dense green-fruit flavors and steely edge, the wine is set for aging. Drink from 2022. Organic and biodynamic.

60-year-old vines. One of the first sectors of St-Aubin to be planted with Chardonnay instead of Pinot. This is unusual in St-Aubin because it is steep and south-west facing, very calcareous and has very little exposure to wind. 0.78 ha total in three parcels. Warmer site than Champlots. Now picked before En Remilly. Tank sample. Broader wine. Just a little fat next to Champlots.

Light nuttiness on the nose. Subtle nose and rather timid. Needs to evolve quite a bit. Still a little raw.

Savoury nose and more restrained than Chenevottes on the nose. Still lots of rather aggressive acidity. Needs quite a bit of time.

Smooth and fine and full of fruit and character. Sleek and mineral. Really worth waiting for. Long with an undertow.

Big and broad and rather C&#244;te d&rsquo;Or! A bit wild to boot!

Disgorged with three grams per liter dosage in August 2019, Pascal Agrapart's 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Min&#233;ral is showing beautifully, mingling aromas of citrus oil, dried apricot, pear, toasted hazelnuts and white flowers in a complex bouquet. Full-bodied, deep and vinous, it's layered and incisive, with a racy spine of acidity and a searingly chalky finish.

Disgorged May 2019, new vintage. Pascal Agrapart: &lsquo;I think Champagne is similar to Burgundy. Perhaps the big houses don&rsquo;t appreciate the difference between different villages.&rsquo; From the lower part of Avize with 40 cm of ferrous soil above chalk. Two different parcels, one vinified in oak and one in tank. Pale greenish straw. Smells just like a Riesling Grosses Gew&auml;chs! Mouth-filling and super-refreshing. Enough fruit for the freshness. Long and indeed mineral. Some mineral salts. Very vibrant and bright-fruited. Bone-dry finish.

Derived from soils rich in clays with a high internal surface area toward the top of the slope in Avize, Agrapart's 2012 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avizoise was disgorged in May 2019 with three grams per liter dosage after aging sur lattes under natural cork. Bursting with aromas of waxy citrus rind, beeswax, Anjou pear, white flowers and nutmeg, it's full-bodied, broad and powerful, with considerable concentration and chalky structuring extract, girdled by ripe but racy acids and concluding with a long, expansive finish. Reflecting the concentrated, powerful vintage, this is an especially muscular Avizoise.

The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is the first vintage of this cuv&#233;e that's spent long enough on its lees to be vintage dated. Unwinding in the glass with a lovely bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, beeswax and dried white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and intense, with a racy spine and chalky back-end grip that's allied, as usual, with rare ripeness and amplitude. It's so lively and vibrant that I feel confident in anticipating two decades' longevity.

The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Min&#233;ral Grand Cru is bracing, taut and wiry. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper and lemon peel drive this blend. The Min&#233;ral is especially fine in 2015. There is a bit of youthful austerity, but nothing a few years in bottle can't take care of. The Min&#233;ral is one of the finer 2015s I have come across so far. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2021. Drink 2022 - 2027.

Disgorged in May 2019 with three grams per liter dosage after tirage under natural cork, the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avizoise is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, English walnuts, crisp green apple, freshly baked bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly enveloping but incisive, it's deep and concentrated, with a racy spine of acidity and a vinous but tightly wound profile. If the 2013 is a little more acid-driven than the 2012, it's also finer-boned and a touch less muscular, rendering it marginally more open out of the gates.

Disgorged May 2019. From the top of the village with more clay, two different parcels. Barrel fermented, cork for second fermentation. Dosage 6 g/l. 600 m between the two parcels. Deep straw. Quite rich fruit with a hint of Edinburgh rock glucose. A little hollow at the moment. And pretty pinched on the end. He opens this well in advance. Quite embryonic. Really tough on the end. Aggressive acidity for now.

Aromas of fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, clear honey and oyster shell introduce Bouchard's 2016 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules, a medium to full-bodied, beautifully precise and tensile rendition of this emblematic cuv&#233;e. Fine-boned and elegant, it's seamless and penetrating. This an especially delicate Ursules that will reward some bottle age.

The 2016 Blanc de Blancs La Haute Lembl&#233; has turned out brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with scents of crisp green apple, blanched almonds, white flowers, crushed chalk and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with a racy spine of acidity and a concentrated, tightly wound core, it's long and penetrating, concluding with a mineral, mandarin-inflected finish. As readers will remember, this series is from a 0.11-hectare south-facing plot planted with five different massal selections of Chardonnay.

A pleasant, expressive Hermitage, showing a ripe character, with lovely plum, blackberry, lead pencil and leather notes. The tannins are well integrated but still firm. Long finish.--La Chapelle vertical.

Healthy brick colour &ndash; quite pale. This smells like an old wine rather than a Rh&#244;ne. Could be a 1971 burgundy almost! Flattering, delicate, gentle drink. Mellow, tannins much in abeyance.

Pretty, with a supple opulence enveloped in fat tannins and ripe fruit. Delivers plum, blackberry and black cherry character. Tight and firm for now, even closed. Needs time. Best from 2003 through 2010. 7,500 cases made.

Quite dark but not very evolved. Quite meaty nose. Very dry and slightly dusty without a real core of fruit. As though it has been kept in oak a bit too long. Very traditional, even a bit rustic. Serviceable but no ingredient X.

The first vintage where the new team was firmly in place, the 2006 Hermitage la Chapelle offers that classic, smoky, meaty La Chapelle bouquet to go with loads of fruits, medium to full-bodied richness, impressive mid-palate density and sweet tannin. This was easily the best showing I&rsquo;ve had from this bottle, which often shows a much more rustic, evolved character.

Tightly wound, with a core of braised fig, currant paste and coffee notes held in check by iron and tar. There's rather muscular grip for the vintage, and the long finish shows slightly taut tannins but is a bit shy on depth. Should unwind with cellaring.

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.&nbsp;

Almond, apricot, lemon juice with a surprising zinginess. Delicious fruit, in a lighter style than most Hermitage. There's excellent mealy texture, finished with that tangy acid again.&nbsp;

The wine opens with a slightly floral aspect and a hint of pear tart with lemon overtones. There is a sense of levity, but more air introduces a more brooding, darker notion of candle wax. That lovely but full-flavoured lightness also characterises the palate with wonderfully bright tension. Again that darker, somehow earthy Meunier note adds a hint of waxiness that almost verges onto smokiness &ndash; especially on the finish &ndash; while the surface remains bright, light and lemony. The mousse is fine and the wine has a pleasant suppleness and this sense of lightness just begs for another sip.

Disgorged at the end of 2019 with a dosage of one gram per liter, Billecart-Salmon&rsquo;s 2005 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is the eighth edition (the release sequence is 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999, 2002, 2003, 2006 and 2005; Mathieu Roland-Billecart released this vintage after the 2006, to give it more time to mature in bottle.) This 100% Pinot Noir from the single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-A&yuml; has a bright, vibrant, fresh nose of orchard fruits, dried fruits, nuts, pastry and spices. The palate is tense, delicate and medium-bodied and evokes notes of white pepper and chalk with a saline finish and a gently bitter aftertaste due to the vintage. It's a little more austere than the 2006 vintage but precise and crystalline.

Named after the patron Saint of Mareuil-sur-A&yuml;, the village where Billecart-Salmon has its HQ, this one-hectare plot of Pinot Noir vines was planted in 1964 and it sits behind the winery. These vines give rise to some of the most fascinating and flamboyant wines in the Billecart portfolio. This wine was entirely vinified in oak barrels and it sat on its lees for 170 months. In addition, the other statistic of note is that it has a dosage of only 1g/L. As luck would have it, I tasted this wine on my son&rsquo;s birthday. As it happens, I was flying to Australia early the following day and, not wanting to wait a week to publish my thoughts, I put the bottle in an ice bucket and then tasted it in my office while Rollo and his 6-year-old pals were running around outside. I elaborate on this setting because after I wrote this note, I poured some glasses for the various parents who came to pick their children up from Rollo&rsquo;s birthday tea. Now it is very unusual to be offered a glass of elite Champagne when you are marshalling your sugar-high-child out of the door, but I thought it might be interesting to hear the impressions from a group of wine lovers, none of whom had tasted Le Clos Saint-Hilaire before. First, my thoughts. Billecart held this wine back and released it after the gorgeous 2006 vintage. There must have been a reason for shuffling the pack, and it seems to me, both on the nose and palate, that this is a more robust wine than the &rsquo;06. The colour gives a very real guide to the volume of fruit in the engine. It is a stunning old gold with pale green hints and softer amber hues. A decadent perfume captures the senses with layers of mandarin, honey, wax and patisserie shot with faint red cherry highlights, and this means that I spent as much time sniffing my glass as I did sipping this wine. Over the course of an hour, the nose broadened further with more exotic tones and even hints of spice. The palate follows a similar theme, with ultra-fine bubbles teasing the taste buds but not distracting from the overall persistence of the depth of fruit notes. This is a rich, mouth-coating wine, and the acidity does all it can to hold it in perfect equilibrium. Of course, it is drinking now, but there is enough of a battery pack to last at least a decade, and I wonder if it won&rsquo;t make two decades with ease. It is hard to tell because the luxurious ballgown of flavour hides the mineral and acid tones so cleverly. This is another sensational LCSH, and they all have such distinct characters it is truly a wine of the soil and the vintage, and this makes it one of the most honest and thought-provoking of the super-premium Champagnes. As a matter of fact, and with full disclosure, the five parents who tasted (at first blind) this glorious wine all went weak at the knees. Weaker still when I showed them the label and told them its story. Even Rollo gave it a thumbs up when he insisted on sticking his finger in my glass and tasting the flavour &ndash; after all, it was his birthday. Over the years, the average production of this wine sits well below 5000 bottles, so if you are a fan or would like to taste a sublime Champagne that is genuinely worth its price tag, look no further.

The 2008 Brut Cuv&#233;e Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from A&yuml;, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels.

20+/20. I have never before taken an overseas trip to taste one wine, but something told me that this was a flight worth boarding... This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried.&nbsp; Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine.&nbsp; It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly.&nbsp; The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses.&nbsp; I learned that this cuv&#233;e&rsquo;s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable.&nbsp; As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here &ndash; this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible.&nbsp; I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical.&nbsp; While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.&nbsp;&nbsp;But that was not all.&nbsp; I mentioned above that this launch took place at Mirazur, previously voted the finest restaurant in the world, and so over lunch, orchestrated by Mauro Colagreco and his brigade, Billy CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart opened magnums of 08NF, which were cork-capped during their ageing as opposed to crown-capped, like the bottles.&nbsp; They were even more exotic on the nose and even more nipped in on the palate (a canny buy for patient folk).&nbsp;

The 2008 Brut Cuv&#233;e Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioch

Lovely precision and drive to this with aromas of lemon curd, brioche, praline, apricots, pomelos, mandarin zest and salted caramel. It&rsquo;s held together by a sharp, citrusy backbone of acidity, balanced with a fine, silky mousse. Both structure and softness here. Citrus fruit brightness on a beautifully elegant and seamless finish. 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. 150 months on lees. 2.9g/L dosage.

Bright, even, pale yellow with some depth. This has a lush, attractive bouquet, penetrating with aromas of rose water, Turkish delight, lychee, red apple and delicate spice. Full-bodied, off-dry to taste, aromas of lychee, baked apple and ginger melded with rose water and Turkish delight. The opulent mouthfeel flows with gentle acidity and spice, and carries a moderately long finish. A classic Alsatian Gewurztraminer displaying lush fruit and an opulent mouthfeel. Match with fish curry and liver pate over the next 5+ years. 13.5% alc. 18.5/20 pts (93 pts) Dec 2023

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from two terrors and is an acquisition of fruit. The nose is quite backward at first and does not quite slip into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet red cherry and strawberry entry, fine acidity, quite fleshy as you would hope from a Chambolle with the 30% whole bunch imparting a welcome spiciness on the finish. Very fine.

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out especially well, wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, sweet wild berries, orange rind, loamy soil and rose petals. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, with velvety tannins and an ample core of vibrant, perfumed fruit, it concludes with a long, seamless finish. This may well emerge as Lignier's finest Charmes of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio. Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and n&#233;gociant sources&mdash;the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pig&#233;age and one r&#233;montage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new&mdash;if possible, without racking&mdash;for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out. (WK)

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, from Mazoy&egrave;res, contains one-third whole bunch this year. That comes through on the nose: this will need some time to fully integrated those stems. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very silky in texture with a slightly powdery, candied finish. Charming, if just missing a little grip that would have warranted a higher score. (NM)

Aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate, forest floor, spices and plums introduce the 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, saline finish. Still primary after a year's &#233;levage, it's built to age. (WK)

A concentrated wine, with a powerful black plum and blueberry fruit, replete with notes of mineral, rose petal, smoke and spice. The texture is very dense and powerful, yet the wine never loses sight of its essential elegance and finesse. This 'regular' cuv&#233;e of Clos de la Roche is a blend of two-thirds Monts Luisants and one-third Fremi&egrave;res, all 60-70 years of age. 30% of the fruit is fermented as whole clusters and the wine is aged in 30% new casks. (CC)&nbsp;

Aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate, forest floor, spices and plums introduce the 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, saline finish. Still primary after a year's &#233;levage, it's built to age. (WK)

A concentrated wine, with a powerful black plum and blueberry fruit, replete with notes of mineral, rose petal, smoke and spice. The texture is very dense and powerful, yet the wine never loses sight of its essential elegance and finesse. This 'regular' cuv&#233;e of Clos de la Roche is a blend of two-thirds Monts Luisants and one-third Fremi&egrave;res, all 60-70 years of age. 30% of the fruit is fermented as whole clusters and the wine is aged in 30% new casks. (CC)&nbsp;

Purchased as wine, Lignier's 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (n&#233;goce) reveals aromas of cassis, plums and wild berries, framed by creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and vibrant, it's a nicely balanced effort that shows promise.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from a purchase of wine.&nbsp;It has a lifted nose with black cherries, boysenberry and liquorice scents, maybe just a little too ripe?&nbsp;The palate is medium-bodied with more composition than the nose.&nbsp;Fleshy ripe tannins, plenty of red fruit infused with blood orange that segues into quite a spicy and persistent finish.&nbsp;It's just the aromatics that need to up their game.

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Regnard (n&#233;goce) bursts with aromas of plums, peonies, warm spices and soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's charming and vibrant, with powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and n&#233;gociant sources&mdash;the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pig&#233;age and one r&#233;montage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new&mdash;if possible, without racking&mdash;for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out. (WK)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Reniards, which comes from purchased grapes, has a very well defined and quite elegant bouquet that unfolds nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy-texture opening, quite plush and ravishing with maybe just a slight lack of tension and bite on the finish. (NM)

One of the perfect wines of the vintage, Frederic Engerer challenged me when I tasted the 2010 Latour at the estate, asking, 'If you rate the 2009 one hundred, then how can this not be higher?' Well, the scoring system stops at 100, (and has for 34 years,) and will continue for as long as I continue to write about wine. Nevertheless, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5% Merlot, and .5% Petit Verdot hit 14.4% natural alcohol and represents a tiny 36% of their entire production. The pH is about 3.6, which is normal compared to the 3.8 pH of the 2009, that wine being slightly lower in alcohol, hence the combination that makes it more flamboyant and accessible. The 2010 is a liquid skyscraper in the mouth, building layers upon layers of extravagant, if not over-the-top richness with its hints of subtle charcoal, truffle, blackberry, cassis, espresso and notes of toast and graphite. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet tannin, it is a mind-boggling, prodigious achievement that should hit its prime in about 15 years, and last for 50 to 100

Unbelievably pure, with distilled cassis and plum fruit that cuts a very precise path, while embers of anise, violet and black cherry confiture form a gorgeous backdrop. A bedrock of graphite structure should help this outlive other 2010s. Powerful, sleek and incredibly long. Not perfect, but very close. *Collectibles* (JM)

The aromas of flowers such as roses, violets and lilacs jump from the glass then turn to dark berries such as blueberries and blackberries. It's full-bodied, with velvety tannins and dense and intense with a chocolate, berry and currant character. This is juicy and rich with wood still showing a bit, but it's all coming together wonderfully. Muscular yet toned. Another perfect wine like the 2010. Try in 2022.

The 2019 Mondot derives from Merlot growing on newly acquired vineyards on Saint-&Eacute;milion's limestone plateau that can't be included in the grand vin until the region's new classification is finalized. Offering up aromas of wild berries, rose petals and coniferous forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, lively and succulent, with a supple, charming profile and a penetrating finish.

A very fresh, lilting style, with silky damson plum and bitter cherry notes mixed with rooibos tea and blood orange hints. Silky, mineral-driven finish. Accessible now. Drink now through 2027.

Tasted blind. Complex but non-flashy aroma. Just a little heavy and lacks lift but ticks the boxes. Hint of yeast-extract savour. Quite long! / 16.5+ | Fragrant nose with a red-berry, burgundian-Pinot touch. Palate exudes the chalky freshness of the soil (pure Merlot on pure limestone). Persistent saline edge. Tannins a little chalky/dusty but refreshing, salivating finish. A singular, distinctive style.&nbsp;James Lawther MW for JancisRobinson.com, June 2020

More elegant aromas include those of mineral reduction, essence of apple, tidal pool and the hallmark floral elements. The sleeker and punchier medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely mouthfeel as well as an pronounces stoniness that seems to build on the clean, dry and impressively persistent finish. Classy and good.Barrel Sample:&nbsp;90-93

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets is a blend of 40- and 80-year-old vineyards and was completely de-stemmed this year; it has an opulent and extravagant bouquet with marmalade and orange sorbet notes suffusing the kirsch, cassis and black cherry.

The Caillerets is one of the highlights in Rossignol's formidable range this year, its rigorous, soil-driven personality in total contrast to the decadent Clos des Angles. Notes of ripe red cherry, redcurrant, chalky minerality and cocoa powder lead into a powerful, pure palate, with a firm core of vibrant fruit and minerality framed by bright acids and refined tannins. Terrific stuff.

Deep ruby colour. Reduction flattens the underlying fruit at present though there is both good freshness and verve to the delicious, powerful and admirably concentrated big-bodied flavors that possess a subtle minerality that really comes to the fore on the rustic, serious and built-to-age finish. A classic Chenevery.

The 2016 Nuits St Georges les Didiers Cuv&#233;e Hospice de Nuits had been racked from its new barrel the previous June and put into a used barrel by Laurent Lignier to reduce the impact of the wood. It has a generous bouquet with ample black cherry, blueberry and violet scents, the remainder of its &#233;levage hopefully putting a rein on the oak influence. The palate is medium-bodied and here I must say that the oak exerts too much of an influence, slightly figgy toward the extravagant (for the vintage) finish. Enjoyable but it is certainly cut from a different cloth compared to Laurent Lignier's other cuv&#233;es.

A ripe and more deeply pitched nose consists of dark berry fruit, humus, earth, tea and a hint of the sauvage is also trimmed in a gentle application of wood. There is good minerally to the lively middle weight flavors that are underpinned by moderately firm tannins before concluding in a suave and velvety finish that displays just a hint of Nuits rusticity.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle comes from the firm's vineyards on the western half of the Hermitage slope, primarily Le M&#233;al, but with substantial contributions from Les Rocoules and Les Bessards. Classic notes of cassis, black olives, mocha and roasted meat are joined by hints of baking spices in a wine that's full-bodied, deep, dense and rich, with a velvety texture and a lingering finish. It's lower in alcohol than the 2018, less voluptuous and maybe just a step behind that monumental wine, but it's still a serious collectible with three decades of evolution ahead of it.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that&rsquo;s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Best After 2022

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle comes from the firm's vineyards on the western half of the Hermitage slope, primarily Le M&#233;al, but with substantial contributions from Les Rocoules and Les Bessards. Classic notes of cassis, black olives, mocha and roasted meat are joined by hints of baking spices in a wine that's full-bodied, deep, dense and rich, with a velvety texture and a lingering finish. It's lower in alcohol than the 2018, less voluptuous and maybe just a step behind that monumental wine, but it's still a serious collectible with three decades of evolution ahead of it.

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that&rsquo;s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it. Best After 2022

This wine is a rich, smooth blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. The ripe, smooth texture gives intensity and complexity to this wine that should be ready to drink from late 2019.

There are three barrels of the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery, a deep, saturated wine that wafts from the glass with notes of cherries, rose petal and sweet spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with rich structuring tannins, good concentration and tangy balancing acids. There's sufficient substance to suggest it will age with style.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chenevery 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed and matured in mainly used oak. It has a tightly wound bouquet that feels bashful compared to the other crus. The medium-bodied palate offers grainy tannin, a mixture of black and red fruit and a tangible sense of energy on the focussed, very Morey finish. Excellent.

The latest iteration of a cuv&#233;e that Lignier regularly purchases, the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Didiers (Hospice de Nuits) displays notes of cherries, cassis, grilled game, dark chocolate and toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with fine tannins and good length on the finish. Lignier racks the wine out of the Hospices' barrels and into used cooperage of his own as soon as it's delivered to his winery.

Very generous wood is enough to push the underlying dark berry fruit, earth and toast nuances to the background. The wood is on the palate as well and it's enough to round off the mid-palate of the medium weight flavors while imparting a slightly bitterness to the finish. This is not a bad wine per se but it's carrying far more wood influence than I can countenance.

Fleshy, with plum sauce, linzer torte and blackberry paste notes melded to a fruit cake frame. Shows a good red licorice spine on the finish, with a racy feel and enough grip for mid-term cellaring. Drink now through 2020.

From vines that are in excess of 100 years old, this bottling is one of the best values to be found in the C&#244;te de Beaune. The 2016 is more reserved than Gras&rsquo; other wines, opening in the glass with notes of plum, baking spice, rich forest floor and an appealing top note of orange rind. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, cool and concentrated, with a racy core of acidity. While not on the same level as the superb 2015, this is very fine and will amply reward ten years in the cellar.

Last year, I giddily speculated whether the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle would warrant a 100-point score. While close&mdash;and I wouldn't completely discount it reaching that pinnacle in another decade or two&mdash;I'm not sure this wine is as good as I thought. It boasts exciting aromas of roasted meat, mocha, crushed stone, plum and cassis on the nose. It's full-bodied, concentrated, richly tannic and velvety in texture. It's long and complex on the finish, adding hints of cracked pepper and salted licorice. And yet, as much as I enjoyed tasting it and as undeniably great it is, angels didn't sing from the heavens. Maybe next bottle.

Distinctly closed at the time of tasting, with some underlying smoky hints. Not terribly full-bodied, but certainly intense and focused on the palate. Some hard tannins on the finish that will take a long time to adequately soften, and there's a hint of bitterness - I'm keen to taste this again in bottle to see the finished blend. Has good balance and vibrancy overall, though the alcohol is a little raised.

The 2013 Nuits St Georges les Didiers Cuv&#233;e Hospice de Nuits, which is aged entirely in new oak, has an engaging vanilla and coca-tinged bouquet that is well defined. The palate is medium-bodied and clearly showing a lot of oak vanillin at the moment with a long candied finish. It would be nice if there was less new oak here, but that&rsquo;s the way the Hospice de Nuits rolls. Compared with the 2012, I would probably have bid on last year's barrel.

(this auction item was in 100% new oak until the Ligniers took possession of the barrels in June of 2014): Good deep red with ruby highlights. Totally different on the nose than the wines vinified by the Ligniers, with licorice and violet aromas.

The 2013 Nuits St Georges les Didiers Cuv&#233;e Hospice de Nuits, which is aged entirely in new oak, has an engaging vanilla and coca-tinged bouquet that is well defined. The palate is medium-bodied and clearly showing a lot of oak vanillin at the moment with a long candied finish. It would be nice if there was less new oak here, but that&rsquo;s the way the Hospice de Nuits rolls. Compared with the 2012, I would probably have bid on last year's barrel.

(this auction item was in 100% new oak until the Ligniers took possession of the barrels in June of 2014): Good deep red with ruby highlights. Totally different on the nose than the wines vinified by the Ligniers, with licorice and violet aromas.

Disgorged in November 2020 with two grams per liter dosage, Billecart-Salmon's newly released 2006 Brut Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is showing well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, mirabelle plum, dried fruits, walnuts, bee pollen and spices. Full-bodied, layered and vinous, it's a concentrated, muscular young wine, allying maturing flavors with broad structural shoulders and racy acids and concluding with a long, resonant and slightly mordant finish. From a parcel planted in 1964 and vinified entirely in oak, this is a powerful Champagne of considerable presence that needs some more time on cork to unwind and round out. 95+&nbsp;

This chiseled Champagne is defined by rapierlike acidity, with fine, tightly meshed flavors of plumped white cherry, poached apricot, marzipan, espresso crema, smoked nut and Gran Marnier liqueur that open slowly on a lively, lacy mousse.

An incredibly fragrant nose shines with ripe, red-cheeked Mirabelle plum and even has an overtone of Kirsch. The palate is creamy and has a wonderful spine of freshness that only helps to underscore the generosity and roundness. The mousse is superfine, the autolysis is restrained yet profound, there is a textured mid-palate of concentrated red apple fruit with an edge of candlewax and a delicious reverberation of pepper. Exquisite.

Deep, ruby-black with a slight garnet rim. The nose is full, enveloping aromas of ripe plums &amp; berries, sweet liquorice, floral and earth. Medium-full bodied, aromas of plum compote, dried blackberry and rose interweaved liquorice, black pepper and earth. A fine grip of tannin overlying fruit, lingering black tea, herb and spice to a sweet-fruited finish. This Gamay possesses ripe fruit, rose and earthy elements on a firm tannin framework. Match with venison and hare over the next 4 years. Handpicked, hand-sorted, mainly destemmed, macerated over 3-4 weeks, indigenous yeast fermentation, 13% alc, aged a short period in new and old French oak barrels, a total of 10 months spent in the historic cellar. November 2022

Fab wine. 100% lightly oaked chardonnay from the traditional Chablis region of Burgundy in France. Vielles Vignes translates as &lsquo;old vines.&rsquo; Creamy, rich and very approachable as a young wine.&nbsp;&nbsp;Ripe apricot and peach, with a hint of Manuka honey and a mineral, tangy long finish.

Disgorged during the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 3.75 grams per liter, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuv&#233;e Louis Salmon reveals aromas of pear, lemon oil, mandarin oil, white pepper, pastry and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and long, it has a crystalline yet vinous texture with a fresh, salty finish. It is a quintessential representation of Billecart's style, characterized by racy acids and a lively palate. It derives from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant and was aged exclusively in steel tanks.

This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold.

Delicate and elegant dry style, with a restrained palate of poached apple, yeasty croissant, a hint of rock melon and lemon curd.

Note: from a miniscule .064 ha parcel of 25+ year old vines; Blanchot-Dessus abuts Montrachet on its southern end. A different aromatic profile is present here with its smoky and spicy array of floral, resin and various white orchard fruit scents. On the palate it's immediately clear that this is a big wine with impressive mid-palate concentration and overt power that continues onto the mouthcoating, gorgeously long and beautifully balanced finish that is very solidly structured. This serious and tautly muscular effort is clearly built-to-age over the longer-term yet it's not so backward that it couldn't be approached after 5 to 7 years of cellaring. *Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding! June 2023.

A fine pale colour. A light stoniness but there is plenty of fruit too. Richer and deeper fruit on the attack, but Cailleret cannot escape its destiny and the stonier side of the fruit returns behind. Just enough flesh on the bones. Drink from 2026-2030. - Jasper Morris October 2022

Pale colour, fine energy, really chiselled, electric backbone, a burst of flavour and indeed some riper floral notes to finish, before some lemon scented oak at the very back. Possibly the faintest touch of something rather exotic to finish. Drink from 2026-2030. - Jasper Morris - October 2022.

Pale lemon colour, the bouquet takes some searching out, but then it arrives, clearly richer than the premiers crus and with a little more oak. At the moment the wood is a little prominent, one of the two barrels being new. The fruit will work out in the end but this may take some time to marry. Drink from 2028-2036. - Jasper Morris, October 2022.

Blended of 97.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot and 0.3% Petit Verdot, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Latour is exquisitely perfumed, displaying fragrant notes of crushed black cherries, raspberry preserves, cassis and black plums with nuances of roses, dark chocolate, garrigue, menthol and a waft of sandalwood. The medium-bodied palate beautifully struts its taut, toned, muscular fruit with a frame of very firm, smooth, rounded tannins and compelling freshness, finishing with alluring earth and mineral layers. At once intellectual and sexy, this truly evocative vintage brings to mind the Melanie Griffith line from &ldquo;Working Girl," possessing a sultry &ldquo;head for business and a bod for sin." (LPB)

This packs some serious warm dark currant, fig and blackberry compote flavors together at the core, with charcoal, singed bay leaf, tobacco and roasted alder notes forming the foundation. Grippy for sure, but there's already alluring perfume and violet elements weaving around here. This has put on some serious weight and dark fruit since the barrel tasting, but remains all tensile strength. It will be fun to watch this age. Best from 2025 through 2045.&nbsp;

97-99. Barrel Sample.&nbsp;Seriously structured and yet also so smooth, this wine has great concentration and powerful tannins. There is wonderful juiciness here as well as dense, dusty tannins that are never hard, always velvet. It is going to be a great wine when it is released in maybe 10 years time. The wine comes only from vineyards that are biodynamic. (Tasted 2016)

"While it's drinking very well right now, it easily has a good 20 years of cellaring ahead, maybe more. Impressive." Robert Parker.

Bright and fresh, featuring floral, cassis and plum aromas and flavors allied to a sleek, iron-tinged frame. Racy tension through the finish lets the fruit play out while the minerality blossoms. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.&nbsp;

Dark ruby garnet, purple reflections, subtle rim brightening. Subtle toasty aromas, dark cherries, subtle hints of liquorice, floral nuances, inviting bouquet. Medium-bodied, red cherries, fine acidity, cherries in the finish, well developed, delicately salty in the aftertaste, a finesse-rich food companion.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. S&#233;millon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. S&#233;millon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. S&#233;millon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

An exuberantly fresh and bright nose speaks mostly of the essence of various red berries and soft spice wisps. The racy lighter weight flavors dance across the palate while offering nice depth and persistence on the balanced finale that is sufficiently firm to suggest that 2 to 4 years should see this at its best.

Here there is enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background. On the palate there is a bit more volume to the energetic and detailed medium weight flavors that conclude in a bitter pit fruit, rustic and sneaky long finale. This is very Chassagne in character and a wine that should drink well young while maturing over the next 5-ish years.&nbsp;(4/2023)

Aromas and flavours of apples and fresh stone minerals, some white spice and lees complexities, lemon and white peach. There&rsquo;s some fresh citrus and white fleshed orchard fruit qualities. Saline, dry, plenty of weight with a satin texture, fine tannins and elevated acid line. Well made, complex and lengthy with a floral saline finish. Best drinking from 2023 through 2029+.

A hint of sweetness is perfectly balanced by delicately mouth-watering acidity that gives the wine energy and pleasing tension. Elegant rather than blockbuster wine with lime zest, oyster shell and a subtle suggestion of wildflowers. November 2023.

The 2016 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's bright and chiseled, with excellent depth at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. The Larmandier family invariably excel in cooler, more classic vintages, and this wine is no exception to that rule. As I've written before, Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the C&#244;te de Blanc's&mdash;and Champagne's&mdash;finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farms organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable. The range begins with two non-vintage Blanc de Blancs: Latitude, broad and charming; and Longitude, more chiseled and incisive. Next come three vintage cuv&#233;es: Vieille Vigne de Levant, from Cramant; Les Chemins d&rsquo;Avize, from the eponymous village; and the Terre de Vertus. Two perfumed ros&#233; de saign&#233;e cuv&#233;es complement the portfolio, now joined by small quantities of still red and white C&#244;teaux Champenois. This year sees the release of a one-off Blanc de Noirs, produced from grapes deemed too ripe for ros&#233; production in the 2015 vintage.

Like a broad arrow, burnished, powerful, driving smoke and cracked caramel from beginning to end with tremendous purpose. Roasted oatmeal. So much density it&rsquo;s almost more of a meal than a drink. Warm, gingery spices. Salt and sour butter and bitter orange peel. A wine that challenges you, broad-chested heart to rib-caged heart. A wine with rhythm, beat, purpose. All-encompassing.&nbsp;

The latest rendition of NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude is excellent, offering up aromas of lemon oil, wet stones and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, with good concentration, racy acids, an ultra-fine mousse and a long, chalky finish. As usual, this is a classy introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier range.

A tangy overtone of pink grapefruit peel rides the fine mousse in this creamy Champagne. It's layered with a subtle mesh of apricot, lemon thyme and minerally brine and chalk notes. Well-cut and harmonious. Drink now through 2025.

Although it's not indicated on the label, this is a Blanc de Blancs from Chardonnay. It is warm and ripe, with a soft texture allied to fresh acidity. Orange and lemon zest give a great lift to this rounded wine.

A perfectly executed white wine blend with a lifted bouquet of white fleshed fruits and dry stone mineral qualities, then flavours of the apple and lemon, apricot and white spices, there&rsquo;s a saltiness from the Marsanne and Roussanne varieties as well as white apricot and a whisper of pepper and dried herb. Dry, plenty of weight with some fruit tannins for mouthfeel, medium+ acid line and a balanced persistent flavours on the finish. Best drinking with food from day of purchase through 2027.

A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2020 Haut-Bailly was harvested from the 9th to 25th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.3%. Deep purple-black in color, it prances out of the glass with naturally beautiful notions of fresh black cherries, violets, mulberries and boysenberries, giving way to hints of redcurrant jelly, star anise, tilled soil and menthol. The medium to full-bodied palate is delicately crafted with velvety/grainy tannins and fantastic freshness framing the perfumed red and black berry layers, finishing on a lingering fragrant-earth note.

99-100 Points. This has incredible power and drive with blackberry, black olive and graphite. It&rsquo;s full-bodied, yet dynamic and agile, with so much polished and muscular tannin. Yet, it remains in harmony and balance. So much character. The head of the chateau calls it diabolical beauty.

Deep purple-black in colour, it pops with explosive scents of ripe red and black currants, black cherry preserves and black raspberries, followed by sparks of violets, wild sage, pencil lead and clove oil, with emerging hints of iron ore and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate has amazing elegance and grace contrasted by jaw-dropping energy, featuring a firm frame of finely grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with a whole firework display of mineral nuances. I love the way this Cos d'Estournel shimmies and shines&mdash;a unique vintage signature expressed so beautifully at this estate!

A broad, rich, enticing wine, built on a core of exotic mulberry and loganberry notes laced with black tea, spices and incense. Rounded through the finish, with the fruit cruising through under a suave gloss of toast. A real crowd-pleaser, with a luxurious feel that makes this hard to lay off of now. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2038. 13,000 cases made.

Deep, purple-black colour. Profound wine with a mass of fruit and tannin. Gives little away at the moment. Broad and full on the palate then tightens to a long, persistent finish. Powerful but contained. Clearly loads of potential.

The 2020 Figeac is the finest wine that has been bottled to date at this estate since its renaissance began a decade ago. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, licorice and black truffles, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a suave, harmonious profile, vibrant acids, and beautifully refined structuring tannins. This sapid, complex wine represents the essence of this great terroir. Two years after extensive soil studies of the estate were carried out, and the first growing season to see cover crops used in the vineyards year-round, the 2020 benefited from more coherently demarcated parcels and more precise &#233;levage, which taken together help to account for its edge over the excellent 2019.&nbsp; The 2020 Figeac is a blend of 37% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, weighing in with an alcohol of 13.9% and a pH of 3.7. Opaque purple-black coloured, it bursts from the glass with a beautifully vibrant initial wave of pure, pristine black fruits: fresh black cherries, juicy black plums and ripe blackcurrants. With swirling, a whole array of floral and spice notes is unleashed: lavender, ground cloves, cumin seed, cardamom and rose oil. The medium-bodied palate is surprisingly graceful for the intensity of aromas, featuring ethereal, perfumed black berry notes, framed by a seamless line of freshness and ripe, grainy tannins, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Far more cerebral and quietly introspective than it is hedonic, this could only be Figeac.

Gentle, juicy and pure with nothing overdone. Merlot provides the broad-brush sweetness on attack, the Cabernet the fresh, minerally notes on the finish. Fine grain of tannin and aromatic complexity on the nose and palate; the finesse is there.

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, red fruits, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and layered, it's intensely flavored but weightless, with a compelling sense of harmony and a long, orange-inflected finish. A blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, it was vinified with some 65% whole bunch and attained 13.5% alcohol. This is the first vintage where Pouthier's methods (whole bunch with weighted cap and long &#233;levage incorporating larger vessels) were applied writ large, and the results are striking. 2025 - 2055

Deep crimson colour. Slightly reserved aromatically but floral notes (lily, iris) as it opens. Dense with a beautifully suave texture, the tannins powerful but refined. Luscious but fresh and long on the finish, the oak (70% new barrels) completely absorbed. Both seductive and restrained. Marked freshness for the year. Will need to check the evolution.

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black coloured 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin.

Cask sample.&nbsp;Creamy, generous style where the Sauvignon is ripe rather than herbal, which works well. Succulent acidity still gives refreshment on the finish. Drinkable now, but has a decade of potential too.&nbsp;

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black coloured 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin.

Cask sample.&nbsp;Creamy, generous style where the Sauvignon is ripe rather than herbal, which works well. Succulent acidity still gives refreshment on the finish. Drinkable now, but has a decade of potential too.&nbsp;

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

The 2020 Talbot has a fragrant nose with black cherries, bilberry, wild mint and chalk, quite harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, almost candied opening, predominantly red berry fruit laced with mint and orange zest, and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. I admire the way this Talbot builds so that it finishes with a flourish. This may well land at the top of my banded score.

Rated from xtraWine.

&nbsp;This estate, close to Mont Sainte-Victoire, has produced a rich, densely textured wine. It is full of tangy fruits, mixing red berry flavors and kiwi.&nbsp;

Blended of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc aged in French oak, 85% new, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Troplong Mondot is redolent of warm plums, blackberry tart and blueberry pie with suggestions of underbrush, bay leaves, cedar chest and lavender plus a waft of baking spices. Full-bodied and full-throttle in the mouth, the palate is decadently packed with a solid core of black and blue fruit layers, supported with firm, grainy tannins and finishing with loads of spicy layers. This pedal-to-the-metal beauty is the ultimate indulgence for the hedonists!

Offers a gorgeous, caressing, velvety feel, with waves of warmed plum, fig compote and blackberry reduction gliding through, inlaid with notes of graphite, sweet tobacco and black licorice. A light loamy echo adds a pleasant tug of earth at the very end. Best from 2022 through 2040.

A wine I was able to taste on multiple occasions, the 2015 Troplong Mondot is a tour de force that readers need to snatch up. This cuvee comes from the cool, clay and limestone soils on the upper plateau (it&rsquo;s the highest point in the appellation) and is a blend of 92% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, harvest between September 30th and October 21st, that was brought up in 85% new French oak. Sporting a deep, inky color as well as a sensational bouquet of creme de cassis, blackberry, toasted spice, licorice and spring flowers, it&rsquo;s another huge wine from this estate that has perfect balance between its fruit, oak and tannin, a stacked mid-palate, and an incredible finish. I wrote "crazy good" more than once in my notes. It has enough fruit and texture to drink nicely even today, yet needs 4-5 years of cellaring and will keep for two to three decades. It's one of the great wines of the vintage.

From bottle, the 2002 appears to have gone to sleep. Nevertheless, it is a fine effort exhibiting a dense ruby/purple color along with notes of roasted coffee intermixed with melted licorice, black currants, dried herbs, and earth. Spicy and medium-bodied, with moderate concentration, this beautifully made, elegant offering can be drunk early in life, but is capable of evolving for 10-13 years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (158), April 2005

&nbsp;Drink 2007-14 Bright crimson with some evolution. Lively, sweet and well knit. Well balanced too though quite evolved. Some freshness. Easy, quite attractive wine I'd be happy to find at the front of a plane. But not fine. (15) Jancis Robinson MW, Farr Tasting, October 2009

The 2018 Troplong Mondot is blended of 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, with 14.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.56. Deep garnet-purple in colour, it begins slowly with bold, bright black raspberries, ripe black plums, fresh blackberries and Morello cherries notes, giving way to underlying scents of tobacco, wild sage, Sichuan pepper, black olives, truffles and Marmite toast with hints of crushed stones and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate offers wonderfully fresh, energetic black fruit with a downright racy line of freshness (uncommon for this vintage) and firm, rounded tannins, finishing long with lots of mineral, earth and dried herbs layers giving beautiful electric sparks.

This offers a lovely display of boysenberry, cherry and plum fruit, yet stays refined and focused, relying on purity as this glides through. Has weight but feels silky, with a flinty mineral hint adding cut on the finish.

The 2018 Ch&acirc;teau Troplong Mondot showed beautifully. Based on 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, it reveals a dense purple colour as well as ripe beautiful aromatics of black cherries, red plums, graphite, espresso, Asian spices, and gravelly earth. Beautiful on the palate as well, it's medium to full-bodied and has a rounded, expansive texture, plenty of mid-palate depth, building tannin's, and present yet integrated oak. This classic, impressive Troplong Mondot will need 5-7 years of bottle age but will evolve for 30 years or more.

The 2014 Troplong-Mondot performed to my expectation now that the wine is in bottle. It has a refined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry preserve and mineral scents that gain intensity in the glass, but never get carried away. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, tensile in the mouth but surprisingly linear and conservative, at least in the first half. It is fresh and precise, then delivers the weight and concentration as it fans out on the finish, a residue of white pepper tingling on the aftertaste. This is a delicious Troplong Mondot that should age with style and grace.&nbsp;

Solidly built, with some heft to the core of raspberry, blackberry and boysenberry confiture flavors. Delivers ample cut and drive thanks to the racy graphite beam. Hints of ganache and Turkish coffee add a bass line without taking away definition or purity.

The 2014 Troplong Mondot is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage, and this beauty has more intensity, richness, and exuberance than just about every other wine in 2014. A blend of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc brought up in 85% new French oak, it sports a deep purple/plum color as well as a smorgasbord of blackcurrants, blackberries, scorched earth, toasty oak, graphite, espresso, and earth. With full-bodied richness, beautiful purity of fruit, and a rich, yet weightless texture, it&rsquo;s a big, yet classy, elegant, and seamless wine from Xavier Pariente that should be snatched up by readers. It&rsquo;s already drinking well but has 20-25 years of prime drinking to go.

The 2018 Troplong Mondot is blended of 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, with 15% alcohol. Deep garnet-purple colored, with considerable coaxing and swirling it slowly emerges from the glass like a waking giant, building to a towering bouquet of preserved plums, blueberry pie and Morello cherries with gentler wafts of violets, star anise, fruitcake and cast-iron pan. The concentrated, full-bodied palate possesses impressive purity and brightness of fruit commingled with richer, riper elements and supported by firm, velvety tannins, finishing with lovely freshness and on a lingering ferrous note. It's a wine that's not just delicious, it's seriously interesting too.

This shows the profile of the vintage, with a touch of plum pit and savory austerity along the edges of a core of red and black currant and cherry paste flavors. Late tugs of warm earth and tobacco on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

&nbsp;This is a very linear red and layered at the same time, showing blackberry, blueberry, black-truffle, bark and stone character. Chalk and minerality, too. It&rsquo;s full-bodied and well framed with gorgeous intensity and freshness. Muscular with wonderful structure and brightness. Salty and savory notes on the finish. Try after 2024.

The classic red grape of the Rh&#244;ne. Ripe and soft syrah with hints of white pepper, anise, black cherry, mocha and a hint of dry sherry.&nbsp;

A 50-50 blend of Marsanne and Roussanne from Chassis, in the heart of the appellation, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Domaine Mule Blanche is forward and fresh, marked by toasted-grain notes and pineapple fruit. There&rsquo;s ample weight and concentration in this medium-bodied white, which should live a reasonable length of time for a white Crozes. - Joe Czerwinski

Bright, with white peach, chamomile and yellow apple skin notes racing through. Shows a light verbena note on the finish, along with a kiss of brioche. Well done.

Pale straw-gold. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of fresh pear, Meyer lemon and Thai basil pick up hints of iodine and quinine with air. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors that are sharpened and lifted by a refreshingly bitter lemon pith accent. Finishes stony, taut and very long, leaving nervy citrus pith and mineral notes behind.

This has a broad and unctuous feel, with nectarine, apricot and mango notes creating an opulent feel, while racy bitter almond, orange blossom and elderberry accents add contrast and range. The lush finish is carried by notes of mango and piecrust. S&#233;millon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2028 through 2040.

Bright medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Attractive ripe yellow tropical fruit, honey and lanolin, some coconut, candied tangerine zest, floral touch, fine caramel in the background. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe pineapple, yellow peach, new wood vivid in the core, fine honey nuances, seems opulent on the finish, marked by some baby fat, powerful finish, certain ageing potential.

Here too there is enough reduction to overshadow the fruit at present. Otherwise the medium weight flavors possess a finer mouth feel though not necessarily better depth, all wrapped in a sleek and slightly more energetic finish where a touch of menthol appears. This discreetly mineral-driven effort could both be enjoyed young or cellared for 5 to 8 years

An equal-parts' blend of Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Blanc is a top-notch effort. One-fourth was barrel-fermented&mdash;just enough to provide a sense of richness to the crisp lime and orange flavors without obscuring the briny, fresh nature of the finish.

Delightful, with plump star fruit, white peach and yellow apple notes, gilded liberally with honeysuckle, verbena and salted butter accents. The lovely finish has light-handed toast, letting everything stream through prettily.

This wine is drinking well now but will age for some years. Lovely perfumed nose with dried stone fruits flavour. An elegant wine with a long finish of almonds and honey Recommend decanting.

From a vintage with a very warm summer and rainy September, the monopole 2011 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie is more earthy on the nose and displays some green asparagus and also oaky notes. Soft and elegant on the palate, with good finesse and vegetal flavors, this is a very elegant, balanced and gastronomic Cabernet with a juicy and floral finish that exhibits violet and licorice flavors. The tannins are fine and juicy, and the wine is stimulating and very, very elegant.

Graphite, dark-plum and blackberry aromas with leafy nuances. The palate has a strong core of firm linear tannins, while the fruits are in the blue-plum and blackberry spectrum. Long regal finish.&nbsp;(2/2018)

Aromas of honeycomb, fresh pastry and minty yellow orchard fruit introduce the 2017 Pouilly-Fuiss&#233; Les Br&ucirc;l&#233;s, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and&nbsp;enveloping wine that&rsquo;s broader and weightier that the Combettes, which remains nicely balanced, with lively acids and chalky structuring extract.Estate Notes:&nbsp;Yellow golden color, the Les Br&ucirc;l&#233;s shows aromas of ripe fruit, jam, melted sugar, hints of smoke and some delicate vanilla on the nose. On the&nbsp;palate, the attack is fresh and aromatic, round and dense, with a good fatness and a nice volume. Acacia honey, toasted bread some oak and hazelnut&nbsp;delicately smoked towards the finish. A full-bodied wine, rich and powerful.

Complex, revealing clean lines and well-defined flavors of vanilla, peach and lemon, with a hint of lanolin. Intense and long, featuring a persistent finish&nbsp;that echoes spice and picks up a mineral note. Drink now through 2025.

Big and bold. Sweet and not unlike an old-fashioned, barrel-fermented Chardonnay from who knows where! Creamy and almost coconutty. But not too fat&hellip;

The deep garnet-purple colored 2016 Grand-Puy-Lacoste gives up pure kirsch and red and black currants with violets and baking spices. Medium-bodied, firm and grainy, it's very expressive with good concentration and length.&nbsp;Lisa Perrotti-Brown - 30/11/2018

A lively style, with lots of briar and tobacco notes out front, backed by punchy plum and black currant paste flavors. Has a shot of sweet tobacco lining the finish, with echoes of savory and hints of iron giving this range and length. Best from 2023 through 2038.&nbsp;

Cedar, tobacco leaf, blackberry, currants, leafy herbs, and underbrush aromatics open the wine. Interestingly, at the moment, the wine is better on the palate with its non-stop layers of concentrated, ripe, sweet, powerful fruits. There is a rustic purity to the fruits which linger and expand in the finish. This could be the finest vintage of Grand Puy Lacoste ever produced. This is a steal for a Pauillac Classified Growth of this quality! Drink from 2028-2060. Jeff Leve tasted July 2022.

The 2005 Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey offer apricot, fig jam and touch of almond on the focused bouquet, grilled walnut coming through later. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, quite structured and almost austere in comparison with other vintages. There is good tension here, vibrant and citric with impressive mineralit&#233; towards the finish. This has great potential.

There's beautiful ripe fruit in this, with pineapple, mango and papaya and hints of vanilla and honey. Full-bodied and medium sweet. Rich and round, with loads of cooked apple, citrus peel and spices. Long and flavorful. Dense and rich. Best after 2012.

Classic Sauternes, treading the fine line between sweetness and elegance. Initially, it seems to be dominated by the botrytis, but then sweet fruits also show, with ripe yellow fruits, honey and almonds, touched with citrus. As it develops, the wine will become richer and more intense. Tasted January 2008.

Almost sour citrus, like lime pickle? Very structured, with taut acidity. Honey too, but overall the acid and citric sharpness rules. Quite an onslaught, but in a good way. (RH)

This has a pretty floral lift, with orange blossom and honeysuckle notes leading the way for yellow apple, creamed peach and dried pineapple details. The juicy edge is well-buried on the unctuous finish.&nbsp;

The acidity is almost shocking, cutting through the richness of the wine. Its sweet apple and lemon flavors balance the honey and maple syrup notes. The wine is still young, demanding aging over a decade at least. beautifully ripe. Screwcap. &mdash; Roger Voss

Scents of raspberry sherbet and garrigue mark the nose of the 2019 Bandol la Migoua, a blend of approximately 55% Mourv&egrave;dre, 25% Cinsault, 15% Grenache and 5% Syrah. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and supple, framed by tannins that grow in intensity on the long finish, culminating in a potent but ripe dustiness. It's a terrific effort that should age two decades or more.

The 2020 Bandol la Migoua&mdash;tasted from foudre&mdash;is a bit tarry and rubbery (expected, to some degree, in young Mourv&egrave;dre-based wines) but opens up to reveal seductive, ripe notes of blackberries and mulberries. A blend of approximately 55% Mourv&egrave;dre, 25% Cinsault, 15% Grenache and 5% Syrah, it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, concentrated but silky in feel and elegant on the long finish.Barrel Sample.

The 2019 Bandol la Tourtine&mdash;mainly Mourv&egrave;dre, with a sprinkling of Grenache and Cinsault&mdash;isn't as bright or fun as the La Migoua, but it might just boast more power and intensity. Dark fruit dominated, yet made complex through dried spice nuances of allspice and clove, it's medium to full-bodied and richly textured, with a long, velvety finish. - Joe Czerwinski&nbsp;

Mainly Mourv&egrave;dre (85%), with Cinsault and Grenache, the 2020 Bandol la Tourtine was still in foudre at the time of my visit last year. Scents of cola, smoke and red berries provide ample complexity on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate is concentrated and almost creamy in texture while remaining fresh and dynamic on the lengthy finish. (JC)&nbsp;(1/2023)

Plump yet elegant, with a range of bergamot, peach, rose water and watermelon rind notes that stay clearly defined through a finish that ripples with the echo of wet stones and rosemary. Hold this for a year, if you can.

Plump yet elegant, with a range of bergamot, peach, rose water and watermelon rind notes that stay clearly defined through a finish that ripples with the echo of wet stones and rosemary. Hold this for a year, if you can.

This offers a dense core of plum, cassis and cherry fruit, with rosemary and bay accents, all of which unfurl wonderfully through the rich yet fresh finish. Well-embedded acidity will help this cellar nicely. Best from 2018 through 2030.&nbsp;

Quite evolved nose. Light and a little scrawny. Fairly tough tannins. Ungracious.&nbsp;

Deep crimson. Rich and darkly fruited but with the savoury, almost meaty character of Mourv&egrave;dre, lifted by a tangy cranberry freshness and notable spice. On the palate, really savoury and almost a little sour but in a good way. Surprisingly smooth tannins already but they are deep and firm. Beautifully balanced even though this is just at the start of its journey into complexity. (JH)

Colour: cherry, garnet rim;Aroma: scrubland, fruit liqueur notes, old leather. Flavour: light-bodied, pruney, reductive nuances. Style: spicy, toasty, overripe, standard. (Guia Penn tasted May 2019)

Aromas of dark fruit with plums, blackberries and some iron and black cherries. Bark, too. Full to medium body with concrete undertones to the dark fruit. Delicate center palate, but finishes creamy and flavorful with light chewiness and dusty texture. Drink now.

Primarily Clairette (60%) and Ugni Blanc (30%), with bits of Bourboulenc, Marsanne and Rolle, the 2021 Bandol Blanc was still in tank when I visited early last year. It presents a striking juxtaposition of ripe pears and honeyed richness with brighter notes of fresh lime juice on the nose and medium-bodied palate, finishing with a sense of plush richness balanced by mouthwatering citrus zest and brine.&nbsp;Barrel&nbsp;Sample: (92 - 94)

With a higher percentage of Ugni Blanc and 10 months in foudres, this has less overt tropical fruit and more restraint. The closed nose opens to white peaches, melon and delicate tropical fruit with a hint of fresh greenness and white nuts. Citrus-pith-tight acidity gives a mouthwatering finish with a touch of chalky phenolics and smoky notes on the finish. Delicate, elegant and beautiful with an intense structure, this is still very youthful with the potential to open up with some age.

The nose reveals notes of flowers, pear and slight notes of pineapple and exotic fruits. The palate is round, mineral and fruity. It expresses notes of granny apple, citrus (tangerine, grapefruit) and slight oaky notes. VerteDin Tasted November 2014.

Stand back as the super-sleek express train to the Far East arrives! Still very young, this gewurztraminer marries a cornucopia of delicate tropical-flower aromas with a totally focused palate, in which there is every bit as much concentration as freshness and vibrancy. Breathtakingly clean finish for this grape variety! From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.&nbsp;(6/2022)

The 2020 Riesling Cuv&#233;e Colette is very clear, refined and elegant on the nose, which indicates perfectly ripe and elegant Riesling fruit. Pure and crystalline on the palate, this is an aromatic, fresh and saline, even light and frisky Riesling with great purity and finesse. It's very stimulating and crystalline, with delicate bitters on the finish. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2022. (SR)&nbsp;(3/2023) &nbsp;

The deep apricot nose pulls you into this extravagantly ripe and concentrated dry riesling that's as precisely balanced as a prima ballerina standing &aacute; point. With aeration many delicate, floral nuances emerge. Stunning interplay of fruit and saline minerality. Extremely long, intense finish that's not a jot tart. From 50-year-old vines at the foot of the Grand Cru Schlossberg. Drink or hold.&nbsp;(6/2022)

This elegant Riesling has a refined texture and subtle layers of flavor&mdash;starfruit, melon rind, lemon zest and smoky mineral, with a pretty apple blossom note. There's an ethereal quality to the integration of the acidity, resulting in a delicate wine that's not to be overlooked, with more to offer than the first sip suggests. Drink now through 2029. 401 cases made, 146 cases imported.

Granite on the upper part of the slope. Very mineral and dry on the end. Very chewy indeed.

From old vines in the heart of the cru, the 2019 Grand Cru Schlossberg Riesling Cuv&#233;e Ste. Catherine offers a deep, intense and substantial, flinty/smoky and mineral-rich bouquet with iodine aromas. Rich but refined and very elegant on the palate, this is a textured and lush Schlossberg with lingering salinity, whereas the richness, power and intensity is captured by fine tannins. The 2019 is an impressive Schlossberg that's still a bit edgy and will need some years of bottle age to gain even more finesse. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2022.

A sleek white, mouthwatering and finely knit, with a subtle, creamy viscosity on the palate that carries the expanding range of poached quince, peach skin, jasmine and green almond notes. Long and lithe, echoing rich mineral accents of stone and smoke on the finish. Drink now through 2029.&nbsp;(2/2021)

Enveloping, sensual bouquet of a thousand yellow fruits and some wild berries that&rsquo;s just beginning to reveal its profundity. Gigantic concentration, but this remains as light on its feet as a prima ballerina. The gentle creaminess on the palate perfectly balances the mineral acidity that seems to blink like a star low in the sky. Enormously long and subtle finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but better from 2023.&nbsp;(6/2021)

A very concentrated, complex Alsace gewurztraminer with enormous spice, plus some candied orange, mangosteen and lychee. There&rsquo;s serious structure, which wines of this kind need to age gracefully, plus spot-on balance of the touch of grape sweetness with fine tannins and discreet acidity. The finish is quite dry with so many delicate, spicy notes. From biodynamically grown grapes.&nbsp;(11/2020)

The 2020 Grand Cru Furstentum Gewurztraminer opens with clear, fresh and pure, even minty scents on the nose that displays bright rather than dark fruit. Round and sweetish and initially with good freshness but not the depth complexity of the Altenbourg, this is an intense but also sweetish Gewurz with candied fruit aromas and a rather linear finish that doesn't open as much as the Altenbourg, although it is sweeter and maybe finer. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in May 2022. (SR)&nbsp;(3/2023)

Sink into the dark side of gewurz with this spectacularly smoky and succulent example, which has gigantic depth and fabulous balance, in spite of the exotic-fruit extravagance on the mid-palate. Some weight at the finish, but also enormous power. Needs time in the bottle. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.&nbsp;(6/2022)

An elegant white, lithe and light-bodied, with a minerally overtone and a pleasing range of kiwi fruit, peach skin, elderflower and blood orange zest flavor layered with the mouthwatering acidity.&nbsp;

The 2019 Pinot Blanc from Domaine Weinbach is a blend of seventy percent Pinot Auxerrois and thirty percent Pinot Blanc vrais. The wine comes in listed at thirteen percent octane and offers up a complex nose of peach, apple, fruit blossoms and a nice base of soil tones. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a good core of ripe fruit, sound acids and lovely length and grip on the bouncy finish. This is probably just a bit north of thirteen percent octane and should be best over the next several years, as there is not a ton of acidity here and I would opt for consuming it while it still has its lovely vivacity of youth. 2021-2026.&nbsp;(9/2021 John Gilman)

A wonderful nose of chamomile and lemon balm. Ripe and succulent, but so elegant and silky on the mid-palate, then the lively acidity of the vintage really lights up the long finish. So much freshness there, but the acidity is already beautifully integrated. A cuvee of 70% auxerrois and 30% pinot blanc. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.&nbsp;(6/2022)

Bright straw-yellow. Ripe apricot, butter and spices on the nose, with hints of tropical fruits. A silky-sweet fruit bomb on the palate, with nicely concentrated if moderately nuanced apricot and orange flavors. This has the stuffing to support its 14.2% alcohol. In a distinctly sweeter style (36 g/l r.s.), carrying its fruit through an almost sugary aftertaste. - By&nbsp;Stephen Tanzer&nbsp;on&nbsp;November 2010

Delightfully firm with so much personality and the sensation that you are licking stones in the vineyard! So firm, so pungent, yet so fruity. Gorgeous wine, essence of Riesling and already approachable. Steely finish suggests a long life ahead. Bone dry and very long.

&nbsp;Delightful nose of pink grapefruit, passion fruit and exotic flowers. Very cool and elegant in spite of the ample ripeness, with a compact core of fine tannins and minerality. Silky acidity at the finish pulls you back for more. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.&nbsp;(3/2023)

Creamy, lightly oaked aroma. Some peaches and cream but zesty with citrus too. More oaky on the palate, the freshness and chalky texture counterbalancing the sweetness of the peachy fruit (sweet flavour not sweet in terms of sugar). Slightly bitter peach-kernel finish. Lots of flavour and lovely freshness. Distinctive but well-made oaky style. (JH)

Strong ruby garnet, purple reflections, brightening to the rim. Delicate nougat, red berry confit, hints of black cherries and candied purples in the background. Juicy, pronounced in fruit, fresh cherries, silky tannins, finesse-rich acid structure, a touch of blueberries, salty touch in the finish, still seems very youthful, DELICATE leafy savouriness in the aftertaste, certain ageing potential.

'The 2016 Saumur Champigny Clos de l'&Eacute;chelier is from a thin layer of white clay over Turonian limestone. This has perfect ripeness and lovely cassis and earthy aromas on the intense and elegant nose. Silky, round and elegant in the mouth, very long and juicy, with fine, ripe and crunchy, spicy tannins and lingering salinity. Great freshness and complexity. Highly elegant and refined, beautifully balanced. Long finish with cherry flavors. "This wine has the balance I am aiming for," says Thierry Germain." - Wine Advocate

Pale red with a touch of brick at the rim.&nbsp;Sous bois&nbsp;and red-fruit notes. Fresh and smooth on the palate, the acidity marked on the finish. Linear and long rather than fleshy. A little lean but bright expression from a cooler year. Best drunk now. (JL)

90-92 Barrel sample. Dense, juicy, with good blackcurrant and red berry fruits, and a solid depth of flavor. There is lifting acidity at the end.

The 2000 Ch&acirc;teau Grand Puy Lacoste is an exceptional wine from Xavier Borie. It has a brilliant nose of blackberry, crushed stone, graphite and cedar. Putting it to one side for ten to 15 minutes reveals subtle mint-like aromas that whisk you straight to Pauillac. The palate is smooth and silky, cloaking the tannic frame of this GPL so that you barely notice it. But that will stand it in good stead for the long-term, the cornerstone of all great wines from this estate. Then there is that hint of spice on the aftertaste&mdash;the show ain't over yet. Served alongside a magnum of Pichon Baron 2000, I would say that at the moment, it does not quite possess the same level of precision. However, it remains a magnificent Pauillac to cherish long-term. Tasted January 2016.

Mid ruby. Firm and, for the first time in this tasting I find myself writing the word 'mineral'. Sweet and pleasing and at first I wondered whether it was almost at its apogee, but it still has slightly aggressive acid and tannin on the palate. It's far from subtle but it does deliver. Quite marked acidity. Not the most luscious 2000 but very solid. Probably needs a bit more time.

An absolutely magnificent wine from this very popular estate, which sits well off the Route du Vin, just to the southwest of the town of Pauillac, its classic creme de cassis and floral notes are well-displayed. The wine possesses supple tannin, a full body, voluptuous character and a layered, impressively textured mouthfeel. This is a brilliant effort from Grand Puy Lacoste that can be drunk in 4-5 years or cellared for three decades or more.Robert M. Parker, Jr. - 28/02/2013

Juicy and still a bit compact, but with red currant, blackberry and roasted vanilla flavors. Shows the racy style of the vintage, with a solid core of fruit for balance. The pure, lengthy finish has nice polish, and this is rock-solid, with a flash of coffee at the end.James Molesworth &ndash; The Wine Spectator &ndash; Top Scoring Bordeaux 2010 &ndash; 31 Mar 2011

Dramatically intense colour. But both samples I tried were a little bit tired. Sweet start but without great intensity on the mid palate. Very chewy end. Just a bit awkward and unfocused. Correct balance though with good Pauillac character. I&rsquo;m just a little worried about the freshness of samples... (Stupidly, I had the chance to re-taste this chez Dourthe but was dashing for a plane and missed both it and its stablemate Haut-Batailley. I may well have underestimated this usually very reliable wine.)

The dense ruby/purple-colored 2011 Grand Puy Lacoste exhibits a charming, open-knit bouquet of red and black fruits. It is a savory, medium-bodied, flavorful, well-endowed Pauillac from Xavier Borie that can be enjoyed over the next 10-15+ years.

Shows purity and focus, with a core of bitter plum, cassis and lightly singed vanilla notes leading to a silky, relatively unadorned finish that glides along. Flickers of cedar and iron should emerge with cellaring. Best from 2015 through 2025.

Cocoa, black cherry, earth and tobacco scents pair with this medium bodied, lighter, fresh, forward style of Pauillac. Give it a few years to improve. Jeff Leve: The Wine Cellar Insider.&nbsp;&nbsp;Tasted: Feb 2014

Gorgeous aromas of crushed berries, cigar box, black licorice and tanned leather. Full-bodied, with fine silky tannins and a medium to long finish. Seems a little tight right now. But refined and pretty. Nice for the vintage. (JS, Web-2007)&nbsp;(3/2007)

Elegant, refined, smoky, tobacco and campfire ember packed medium-bodied wine which provides the perfect backdrop for all the sweet, fresh, spicy red berries, tobacco leaf, and cigar wrapper. Soft, silky, and ready to go, this does not require much if any air.&nbsp; Jeff Leve The Wine Cellar tasted October 2021

Solid, with a sleek, focused core of damson plum, red currant and red licorice, framed by an alder edge through the finish. Integrated and approachable now, this should age nicely in the near term.&nbsp;

At this stage, the wine is showing way too much wood aging. It is toasty and spicy with the fruit obscured beneath. It should integrate in a few years, although the wood is always likely to be prominent. Drink from 2017. &mdash; Roger Voss

A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the opaque purple-colored, chunky 2001 Mouton-Rothschild does not possess the finesse and stature often achieved by this first-growth. It offers a tell-tale cassis-scented nose, and a monolithic, medium to full-bodied style with relatively high, austere tannin in the finish (a characteristics I also noticed in cask). A dry, angular, backward effort for the vintage, it should be forgotten for at least a decade. Let's hope the fruit continues to expand and sweeten, but that's no sure thing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025+.

Very smoky, with berry, coffee and tobacco aromas. Full-bodied, with polished velvety tannins, plenty of fruit and a cedary aftertaste. Tight and compacted. This is better than the 2000 Mouton. It's a baby 1986 Mouton. Solid and very, very fine. Persists for a long time on the palate. Best after 2009.

Close to fully developed, for a First Growth, it is a bit of a disappointment. Medium-bodied, earthy, and showing a good amount of secondary character with its cedar, cigar box, herb, forest floor, spice, and crisp red berries, there is a slight rusticity to the tannins and a general simplicity to the wine on the palate and in the finish. This is unlikely to improve much with age. Jeff Leve tasted October 2021.

Aromas of sweet tobacco, berry and chocolate follow through to a full-bodied palate, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Slightly hollow midpalate but very nicely done. Best after 2007.&nbsp;

Glowing crimson. Sweet biscuit/toasty oaky nose. Rather specious appeal. Sweet but drying tannins. (Average group score: 15.3)

Tasted from foudre, the 2020 Bandol Cuvee Classique had been blended the week before my visit. Already showing classic notes of tree bark and truffle layered against cherries and raspberries and a touch of olive, it looks relatively precocious. In the mouth, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, with a long, plush finish. Drink: 2023-2035.

Salty, herby and very southern. Good bite. No hurry to drink this! 2024-2030

As Guigal says, the 2004 Cote Rotie Chateau d&rsquo;Ampuis is "very Burgundian." Forest floor, herb, underbrush, red currant, and sweet cherry notes dominate the aromatics and flavors of this medium-weight, peppery, slightly herbaceous wine. It has turned out to be outstanding, no easy task in a year with record-setting yields and many overly vegetal northern Rhones. This is a sexy, seductive 2004 to enjoy over the next 7-8 years.

A very fine effort for the vintage, with slightly mature hints of coffee and sage mingling with a core of black cherry, incense and iron. The long, fine-grained finish still has good grip, but is also plenty supple, with a lingering hint of incense. Drink now through 2022. 2,500 cases made.

Very pure, with lilac, violet, cassis, bitter cherry and damson plum notes streaming through in lockstep right from the start. A fine chalky underpinning gives the finish a sleek and racy edge. A beautifully precise wine, with a lot in reserve, that could benefit from a little added weight in the cellar. (JM)&nbsp;(3/2019)

Unquestionably one of the top 2-3 wines of the vintage, the 2016 Ch&acirc;teau Montrose is a monument in the making. Checking in as a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc raised in 60% new French oak (the balance was in once-used barrels) and representing a tiny 36% of the production, this deep purple-colored 2016 possesses powerful, incredibly classic Saint-Est&egrave;phe notes of creme de cassis, graphite, damp earth, lead pencil shavings, and burning embers. With a powerful, full-bodied style on the palate, a huge mid-palate, lots of underlying structure and tannic grip, and perfect balance, this magical wine will need upwards of a decade or cellaring and keep for 40-50 years.&nbsp;(2/2019)

This has a nearly plush edge, surprising for the vintage, with warmed plum, blackberry and black cherry compote flavors liberally inlaid with smoldering tobacco, humus and roasted juniper notes. Keeps a fleshy edge through the finish, with a streak of warm paving stone lending an austere hint.

Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Strangely metallic note on the nose. Slightly austere on the end. Edgy and a tad green. Other tasters preferred this to me.

The brilliant 2014 Montrose is the fruit of a harvest that stretched out for almost a month, ending on October 17. One of the wines of the vintage, it opens in the glass with aromas of cassis and plums mingled with burning embers, licorice, sweet loamy soil and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Published: Dec 22, 2023

This is seriously built, with an admirable core of red and black currant paste and bitter plum fruit inlaid with notes of tobacco, bay and smoldering charcoal. The finish is ramrod straight thanks to an iron girder supporting everything with ease. A tremendous effort for the vintage.

I really like how this wine is developing. Full-bodied, earthy, fresh, and vibrant, you find a leafy, cigar wrapper and spice edge to all of its layers of currants and blackberries. Give it a few more years in the cellar and it could be even better. Drink from 2027-2050. Jeff Leve The Wine Cellar Insider

An hour of air and the wine truly blossomed. Texturally, the wine was supple and fresh. The fruit was perfectly ripe, the flavors were bold and finish offered the right mix of purity, pleasure, length and style. This is drinking really well today. If you've been sitting on your bottles, now is a good time to pop a cork. Jeff Leve The Wine Cellar tasted November 2017.

Round, soft and very velvety, with gorgeous fruit and tannins. Full-bodied, chewy and seductive. This is big and juicy. Best after 2012.&nbsp;

With its high proportion of Merlot, this is a slinky, rich wine, smooth and ripe. Yes, there are tannins, but the jammy fruit softens the dark corners. It should age, but is not for the long-term. &mdash; Roger Voss

&nbsp;Impressive aromas and flavors of violets, blueberries and blackberries. This has a very plush and open-knit palate. A supple, fleshy and seductive style. Drink or hold.(2/2018)

Medium garnet-purple in colour, the 2015 La Fleur de Bouard has a perfumed nose of violets and roses with a core of baked cherries, warm black raspberries, plums and spice box. The medium to full-bodied palate is soft and packed with fruit, finishing with an herbal lift.

Fleshy in feel, with plum sauce and steeped cherry notes gliding along, inlaid with singed cedar and sandalwood details. Light tea and mineral accents show on the finish. Drink now through 2022.

Inky fragrance. Very round and syrupy on palate entry. Only just the right side of appetising. Dry finish. But all stops have been pulled out! Just a slightly hot end.

Billecart's newly released NV Brut Nature exhibits aromas of fresh bread, crisp orchard fruit, almond paste and ripe citrus fruit. Medium-bodied, pillowy and precise, it's crisp and bone-dry, without being in the least austere. (Sep 21)

Firm and toasty, this tightly knit example features grilled nut and smoke accents that lace the crunchy pear and lemon curd flavors. Drink now.

A blend of pinot meunier 40%, pinot noir 30% and chardonnay 30% with 48 months en tirage. No sugar was added to the dosage. Fine, creamy Champagne with grapefruit, lemon curd, wildflowers and brioche flavours. A classy wine with a crisp, dry and lingering finish.

The 2022 Gewurztraminer Orchid&#233;es Sauvages is subtly scented with summer blossom and white peach. The palate is rounded, adding ripe, juicy, yellow peach and beautiful freshness. This is like digging into a flower-scented, lemon-dressed peach salad with a beautiful phenolic structure and freshness to balance the gentle sweetness of 10 g/L. The 2022 is wonderfully poised with its scented nature. This is summer in a glass. (Off-Dry) -- Anne Krebiehl MW

Black fruited nose with nuances of graphite. Rich and warm, with tightly wound tannins. Long finish.

Ripe and well-marked by vanilla, butterscotch and toasty oak flavors.&nbsp;An open wine, with peach, apple pie and lemon curd notes that slumber underneath.&nbsp;Long finish.&nbsp;Drink now through 2027.

Lobenberg Wine Guide: "What does 200 million years of manifest minerality taste like ? Jean-Francois Clouet put the answer in this bottle. A completely new wine in Clouet&rsquo;s portfolio, bottled in a special white-coated bottle with a matching box in a chalk cliff design. One third of the Chardonnay grapes grow on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims and two thirds on the C&#244;te de Blancs. The base wines of the first wine, which is labeled without a vintage, come from the late-ripening, almost brutally brilliant year 2013 and are aged on the yeast for 7 years in the bottle. Then freshly disgorged in spring 2021 with only 6 grams of sweetness. The Chalky will therefore not be at its best until winter 2021 at the earliest (preferably 5 years later). As the name suggests, Chalky tastes like the salty-chalky purism of the chalk soils of Champagne, but it wouldn&rsquo;t be a Clouet if it didn&rsquo;t also exude a wonderful, melting charm and seductive appeal. 200 million years of minerality poured into the bottle as liquid chalk, what a smooth, delicious mineral hammer!"

Strongly stony/mineral nose, almost a Chablis-esque dustiness. On the palate, a creamy citrus depth and breadth so you know you are not in Chablis. Refined and persistent, an almost salty freshness on the finish, making you want the next sip. - Julia Harding MW

A delicate white, featuring peach and lemon flavors that mingle with toasty oak. Vivid acidity sets the pace as the spice and fruit notes intertwine through the finish. Drink now through 2028.&nbsp;

Subtle and restrained with gentle pear and orange blossom. There's an oily richness to the stone fruit flavours with a citrus freshness.

Delightfully firm with so much personality and the sensation that you are licking stones in the vineyard! So firm, so pungent, yet so fruity. Gorgeous wine, essence of Riesling and already approachable. Steely finish suggests a long life ahead. Bone dry and very long.

The 2019 Grand Cru Schlossberg Riesling offers a pure, intense and elegant, crystalline and finely concentrated bouquet of bright fruits intertwined with lemon and grapefruit bitters. Lush and round on the generous but refined and balanced palate, this is an intense, saline and very elegant Schlossberg with a long, intense and complex but never alcoholic finish. Very promising classic, linear style. 13.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork.

This is so elegant and refined, with such a complex bouquet of aromas that range from bitter lemon, through red apple and quince to white peach. Then comes the finely etched palate that&rsquo;s simultaneously very nimble and intense. Breathtaking delicacy at the crystalline finish! From biodynamically grown grapes.

&nbsp;Really gorgeous, in an extroverted style with a lot of range, this white oozes mango, yellow peach and honey-coated apple flavors. A vein of invigorating minerality drives tension, with a quinine bitterness that punctuates the lush profile, while notes of acacia, brioche and sea salt echo on the long finish. Rich and full, with a lot of complexity and definition.

Wine Advocate&nbsp; Produced from roughly equal proportions of six varieties, co-fermented in stages, as each one is deemed ripe and picked, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is atypically plush and ripe (it's close to 15% alcohol), marked by pineapple, white peach and tangerine notes. It's full-bodied and round, deceptively easy to drink yet concentrated and long on the finish.

The golden-yellow coloured 2007 Vieilles Vignes de Cramant Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut is sourced from up to 90-year-old vines in the Bourron du Levant lieu-dit in Cramant. It offers a deep, intense, powerful and complex nose that reminds me of great wines from Burgundy or Jura. Rich, intense and endlessly juicy but also highly finessed and thus seemingly weightless, this is a very complex, persistently mineral and structured Cramant with great tension, finesse and generosity. It sounds like a paradox, but this is the old-vines Cramant from the Larmandier family.

The 2007 Extra Brut Grand Cru Vieille Vigne Cuvee Levant is 100% Chardonnay from 48-70 year old vines.&nbsp;Lemon oil, white flowers and mint are some of the notes that open up in the 2007 Extra Brut Grand Cru Cramant Vieilles Vignes de Levant, which emerges from a parcel of 50-70 year-old vines in Cramant. Here the interplay of bright aromatics and vertical, old-vine structure come together beautifully. Next to some of the other wines in the lineup, the 2007 is a bit compact, but it is quite pretty just the same. The Vieilles Vignes is fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barriques and foudres.&nbsp;

Vinified and aged in a well-judged combination of used oak and stainless steel, giving both freshness and depth to the palate. Nose of citrus, buttered toast and lemon cough drops. More toasty citrus on the rounded palate, with a creamy texture that&rsquo;s balanced by poised acidity for a fresh finish. A great food wine. &ndash; Julie Sheppard

From Beaune, France, using traditional gamay beaujolais grapes. Spiced plum, a hint of bubblegum, leathery firm tannins, a hint of tobacco and a dry savoury finish. Tasted August 2024.

The classic white grape of the Rh&#244;ne, this viognier is dry and elegant at 13.5% ABV. Subtle flavours of poached pear, triple sec, clover honey and blond tobacco, with a hint of baking spice.&nbsp;

Concours of Lyon 2023

The 2021 Ch&acirc;teauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourv&egrave;dre and 5% Cinsaut. It displays moderately intense aromas of predominantly red fruits, slightly cooked, as well as some leafiness. Medium to full-bodied, the well-structured palate delivers juicy fruit. Balanced by fresh acidity, it concludes with a bright finish. (Nicolas Greinacher)

From the Saint Emilion appellation. Ripe, soft and generous with cassis, black berry fruit, soy, spiced plum, stewed prune and hint of earthiness.&nbsp;

The NV Brut Grand R&#233;serve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It's pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.

Whole-grain bread, malt and candied berry aromas and flavors highlight this intense yet creamy Champagne, which picks up a floral accent as it cruises to a long, mouthwatering finish.

Incredible value for a blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir) grower Champagne from the grand cru vineyards of Bouzy. It shows gorgeous aromas of stone fruit, citrus and strawberry, with complex brioche nuances, remarkable balance, ongoing elegance and a rich, refined, persistent finish.

Full wild-blackberry aromas, plus some meaty character welcome you to the Rhone kingdom of syrah. Thanks to the open fruit, moderate tannin structure and creamy texture on the mid-palate, this is already a very appealing Crozes-Hermitage. Only at the finish are the tannins a bit more obvious, but the mineral freshness there is more forthright. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Incorporating fully 10% still red wine, Billecart's 2009 Brut Ros&#233; Cuv&#233;e Elisabeth Salmon is showing beautifully, delivering fragrant aromas of plums, stone fruits, petals, sweet spices and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegant, it's seamless and pillowy, with bright acids and a pure, precise profile, concluding with a bright, saline finish. In 2009, it was vinified entirely in stainless steel. Drink&nbsp;2022 - 2035.

An elegant ros&#233; Champagne that seamlessly knits juicy acidity and fine-grained texture with a subtle, smoke-laced underpinning and a delicate mesh of wild strawberry, kirsch, mandarin orange peel and toasted brioche flavors. Harmonious, with an open-knit, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

A wonderfully open nose immediately presents ripe red currant framed by notions as various as fresh gingerbread, iron oxide, berry sherbet, orange peel, candied tangerine and caramel: richness and freshness united. The palate is smooth with fine, vivid effervescence that propels the wine&rsquo;s inherent freshness continually to the surface, both countering and complementing a certain roundness, a certain gourmandise that shimmers with red fruit, ripe, aromatic citrus and stony spice. A most gastronomic Champagne that will evolve beautifully. Tasted 2022.

The 2008 Brut Cuv&#233;e Nicolas Francois was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from A&yuml;, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels.

20+/20. I have never before taken an overseas trip to taste one wine, but something told me that this was a flight worth boarding... This super-deep wine dwells low in the glass with weight and depth of delivery that is completely unhurried.&nbsp; Vinous, powerful and with a full spectrum of fruit and patisserie, it is remarkable just how little citrus and herb there is on the front end of this staggeringly impressive wine.&nbsp; It is more layered and exotic than any current release Champagne I can think of, and then when it seems as though the scene is set, everything changes instantly.&nbsp; The palate drops about three gears revealing arresting zestiness and tanginess that completely engulfs the senses.&nbsp; I learned that this cuv&#233;e&rsquo;s release was delayed by nearly two years because the back end was so twitchy, nervy and excitable.&nbsp; As it turns out, the Billecart gurus made the right call here &ndash; this is an electrifying wine, and the finish shows that the potential here is incredible.&nbsp; I am lucky enough to have tasted the 1959 and the 1961 Billecart-Salmon vintage wines, among others, and the DNA and detail in this 2008 are near-identical.&nbsp; While the top half of this wine is showy, flamboyant and seductive, the lower half is firm, chiselled, rigid and breath-taking.&nbsp;&nbsp;But that was not all.&nbsp; I mentioned above that this launch took place at Mirazur, previously voted the finest restaurant in the world, and so over lunch, orchestrated by Mauro Colagreco and his brigade, Billy CEO Mathieu Roland-Billecart opened magnums of 08NF, which were cork-capped during their ageing as opposed to crown-capped, like the bottles.&nbsp; They were even more exotic on the nose and even more nipped in on the palate (a canny buy for patient folk).&nbsp;

Disgorged during the second quarter of 2022 with a dosage of 3.75 grams per liter, the 2009 Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuv&#233;e Louis Salmon reveals aromas of pear, lemon oil, mandarin oil, white pepper, pastry and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and long, it has a crystalline yet vinous texture with a fresh, salty finish. It is a quintessential representation of Billecart's style, characterized by racy acids and a lively palate. It derives from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the villages of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Cramant and was aged exclusively in steel tanks.

This is showing an array of almonds, frangipani, dried lemons, apricots, pastries and white chocolate, evolving to salted caramel. Fantastic complexity and all in balance, with firm focus yet open and delicious. Creamy, very fine bubbles. Salty, turning chalky and mineral at the end. Drink or hold.

A finely textured Champagne, this is definitely dry, still young, and with great potential. The wine's minerality combines with the texture to give both tension and richness.

The 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel is clear, bright and subtle on the delicate and highly refined nose. Piquant and slaty on the pure and playful palate, this is a beautifully detailed and frisky Auslese with a long, stimulatingly salty and refreshing finish. Drink 2030 - 2070.

Tense and intense on the nose &ndash; though by no means expressive yet. Very lively and juicy still with some light astringency but with massively beguiling honey and green-apple flavours piling on the layers. Super-fresh and clean. Drink 2027 - 2047.

The Lieser 2019 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG is clear and intense on the remarkably fine, flinty and herbal nose. Full-bodied, lush and intense, with fine crystalline acidity and slate astringency, this is an elegant, round, finessed and mouth-filling Helden. It is as fine and elegant as rarely seen before and is carried by lingering salinity and even hidden tannins. It's almost as part was vinified in oak, which would be a more than tolerable stylistic change since it would be for the better. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

Greenish tinge to the pale straw. Heavier, nuttier nose than some of its stablemates. Though overall it's still sprightly, it's just a little bitter on the finish. Drink 2021 - 2027.

A fine herbal aroma flatters the nose with subtle notions of mint and chervil. On second inhalation the fragrance is extended by hints of minerality and yellow fruit. The taste opens with a generous sweet and juicy expression of nectarine and grapefruit, embellished by a fine sprinkling of exotic spice and just a dash of brown sugar. Obviously sweeter than the Helden Kabinett, which, maybe just for now, masks the complexity a little bit.

The 2020 Niederberg Helden Riesling GG shows a coolish, even minty nose of broken slate and ripe, rich and intense fruit. Full-bodied, dense and structured on the palate, this is a dense and more muscular Helden that needs some years to refine and open up.

Slightly funky, but brimming with blossom and berry aromas, this is concentrated, finely etched and super-mineral, with a breathtaking finish that makes you think you are drinking slate. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

A gentle white, whose Golden Delicious apple, peach and citrus flavors gather intensity as the acidity emerges toward the finish. Balanced. Needs time to integrate. Best from 2009 through 2025.&nbsp;

The bouquet of apple, pear, citrus and honey become more minerally and complex with air, developing into a delicate interplay of tree fruit, honeyed sweetness and a hint of petrol on the palate. Long on the finish, where it hints at mild citrus, such as tangerine. Tasted January 2007.

The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG opens with a clear, deep, refined and herbal/floral bouquet of very fine slate aromas and lovey purity and freshness. Crystalline and salty on the palate, this is a lean and salty, finely grippy, quite powerful Riesling with very ripe fruit aromas on the finish. Intense but not really long this year. Tasted in Wiesbaden in August 2021. Drink 2026-2037.

Intriguing nose draws you in with a promise of things to come. More complex than the Juffer Sonnenuhr. The acid level is quite searing at the moment and the minerality is clearly buried deep inside this dry, still slightly chewy wine. I'd wait for it to unfurl but it's clearly very well made.

The 2022 Riesling Lieserer Niederberg Helden Sp&auml;tlese opens with an initial yeasty funk, slowly revealing creaminess and a sense of tender, ripe yellow plum. The palate adds flesh to these aromatic bones, with juicy texture and sweetness bedded into the fruit, serene, textured. A grapefruit tinge balances this pure, airy vision of ripe stone fruit flesh alongside slate, anchoring this in a salty base. The 80-85g/L of sugar just seems to disappear in this salty, citric marvel. (Sweet)

The great gin boom of the 21st century shows no sign of slowing as the world remains thirsty for juniper. At the Whisky Exchange, we&rsquo;ve always prided ourselves on finding the best spirits for our customers, so we&rsquo;ve assembled a panel of experts to determine the Gin of the Year 2023. This year&rsquo;s shortlist contains modern interpretations of classic styles and boundary-pushing new innovations. The winner is Stranger &amp; Sons Gin, offering an aromatic and exotic take on the classic spirit, utilising locally-sourced botanicals to create a fragrant Indian gin.

The elegance of angelica root aromas lead onto a warming palate and pleasing mouthfeel. Citrus notes balance well with spices that linger enjoyably. Well balanced, and also a great length to flavours.

The great gin boom of the 21st century shows no sign of slowing as the world remains thirsty for juniper. At the Whisky Exchange, we&rsquo;ve always prided ourselves on finding the best spirits for our customers, so we&rsquo;ve assembled a panel of experts to determine the Gin of the Year 2023. This year&rsquo;s shortlist contains modern interpretations of classic styles and boundary-pushing new innovations. The winner is Stranger &amp; Sons Gin, offering an aromatic and exotic take on the classic spirit, utilising locally-sourced botanicals to create a fragrant Indian gin.

The 2013 Scrio is an opulent, generous and engaging wine. It reveals an all-Syrah personality with ample layers of dark fruit, blackberry, spice, cured meat, leather and bacon fat. Its integration is absolutely seamless. Scrio is dark and impenetrable in terms of appearance and presentation. The bouquet and the mouthfeel are long and luscious. You can count the length of the finish in many, many long seconds. Only 5,000 bottles are made. In terms of its aging potential, this Tuscan Syrah has the inner energy to last two decades or more.

This is meaty, exhibiting iron, blackberry, cracked pepper and sanguine aromas and flavors shaded by spicy oak notes. Powerful and dense, this could still benefit from aging but would be approachable with something like a juicy, grilled steak. Syrah. Best from 2019 through 2029.

Le Macchiole's 2013 Scrio is a deep, dense wine built on a core of serious fruit. Dark, powerful and inviting, the 2013 possesses striking nuance throughout, especially in the expression of fruit. Creamy, silky tannins add to an impression of generosity. It will be interesting to see if more varietal aromatics develop in bottle. Today, the Scrio is a wine decidedly built on primary notes.

The 2014 Messorio (100% Merlot) was slightly shy and slow to open when I tasted it as a barrel sample some eight months previous to this tasting. I can't say that the wine has opened much since then. It continues to show a tight and slightly austere bouquet with dark fruit, spice and leather. You don't get that quintessentially soft side of the grape. Instead, this Merlot feels a bit thorny and prickly in places due to the much cooler growing conditions. The mouthfeel is less opulent and layered compared to the warmer vintages we have seen in the past. This wine definitely will not be ready to drink for a few more years.

Gaining accessibility, this red offers plum, earth, leather and tobacco flavors. Though firm, the tannins are softening, and this shows an essence of ripe fruit and iron on the finish. Merlot. Drink now through 2023.

The 2014 Messorio is another very pretty and expressive wine from Le Macchiole. The 2014 has lovely mid-palate density, especially for the year, along with a decidedly exotic passion fruit/apricot quality that will only grow as the wine continues to develop in bottle. I expect the 2014 starts to drink well relatively early, but it also has enough freshness and balance to hold for a number of years. Hints of truffle, raspberry jam, blood orange and spice infuse the layered, creamy finish.

This is a fine-tuned expression that shows a focused sense of detail and careful attention. The quota of Cabernet Franc has been upped by a hair and this makes a big difference, especially in terms of the wine's bouquet. Otherwise, this celebrated Tuscan blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. It opens to dark fruit aromas with crushed mineral, pipe tobacco, pressed flower and toasted spice. Its appearance is midnight black and profound. The wine delivers a sense of sheer excitement and nervousness that will subside with another few years of bottle age. Nonetheless, I think a certain amount of that bright edginess or rigidness will always be part of this cool vintage Solaia. In the mouth, the wine is firm, compact and dense. The tannins are chiseled to the point of sublime integration. Marchesi Antinori made 40% less Solaia in this vintage in order to maintain the quality you taste here.

A dense and fruity red with chocolate, dark berry and cedar character. Full and chewy with a flavorful finish. This is extremely well done for the vintage. Needs two or three years to soften.

Editor's Choice - Widely available, this easy Prosecco offers fresh aromas of citrus, stone fruit and honey. It&rsquo;s elegantly packaged with a light blue label that would look gorgeous at a lunchtime table set by the pool.

In the late 1800's Sartori's trattoria was the place to frequent if you were a merchant, trader or weary traveller hunting for hearty food, good wine and a comfy place to camp. As the family concentrated more on wine, hospitality remained their focus, which is why their prosecco's are especially friendly. Wild apple and acacia aromas with lemony, creamy characters, a biscuity backbone and cloud-like complexity - it's outstanding with sweetcorn and basil polenta, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

This bright red features cherry, raspberry, floral and spice aromas and flavors allied to a silky texture. Iron, sanguine and toasty accents add complexity. Firm and built to age, with a terrific finish. Best from 2022 through 2040.

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Poggio Rosso is a powerful, bold wine that captures all the natural intensity of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, lavender and French oak are all amped up. Exuberant and generous in the glass, with superb richness, the 2016 has so much to offer. The style is extroverted - there is no doubting that - but all the elements are impeccably balanced.

The 2018 Testamatta shows elegant Sangiovese purity and transparency, starting with delicate wild berry and blueberry tones and finishing long with pretty accents of crushed limestone and a touch of campfire ash. In the glass, the wine is radiant and vivid with a luminous ruby or garnet colour. Oak use is reduced to a bare minimum, with barrels that are up to their 16th year of use. The older they are, the better, Bibi explains. As the wine opens in the glass, it presents pretty lilac and violet. This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites (all with old vines that are farmed organically) across the region of Tuscany. The northern-most sites close to Florence tend to add the floral notes that are so characteristic of this cool vintage (which saw a bit more rain than average and extra work in the vineyards to kept these vines healthy). I visited the vineyards with Bibi in 2018 and remember how beautiful the grapes appeared on the vines. Much of the fruit used here comes from the Vigna del Cancello in Casciano del Murlo, which is midway between Siena and Montalcino. These southern sites give the wine its backbone and tannins. Bibi Graetz tells me that he struggled to create the blend for this 60,000-bottle release. He decided on a final blend, only to change his mind and re-blend two and a half months later. His second stab was specifically aimed at capturing finesse and softening the wine's tannic imprint. Indeed, the wine ultimately offers more in length (with fresh fruit flavors and bright acidity) than it does in power or mid-palate. The finish is silky, long and very fine.

Finely textured, with a nuanced perfume that fills the glass and takes you to the intense underbrush of Tuscany. Succulent and yet savoury, this has a lilting freshness that is overlaid with ripe berry fruits, sage and white pepper spice, and clear minerality in terms of its scraping texture that makes your mouth water on the finish. Feels light and sculpted and yet has an intensity that skewers you to the spot. This is a great wine, with scope and imagination that doesn't want to let you go. Genuinely stands out among the wines of this tasting, and these are a fine array of wines. As with coloure, Bibi Graetz selects only old vines, the youngest 50 years old from five different vineyard sites across Tuscany, all farmed organically. Fermentations in open 225l barrels with natural yeasts and manual punch downs. Drinking Window 2024 - 2045. (Aug 2020)

The Three Graces of Le Macchiole are Messorio, Scrio and Paleo (Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, respectively). Of these three top-tier releases, my favorite is the 2017 Paleo. This is an upright and direct expression of the grape that carefully sheds some dusty or mineral aromas before opening the way for determined black fruit, charred meat, spice and cured tobacco or cigar. There is quite a bit of oak, but it works beautifully against the natural intensity and rich concentration of the hot vintage. More unexpected are those pretty tones of lilac, blue flower and aniseed that add to the detailed rendering and complexity of the bouquet. This wine won my heart. Drink 2022 - 2045. (31/10/2020).

The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle.

This sinewy Brunello features blood and iron notes, with earth, plum, cherry and leather flavors. Leans toward the balsamic side, with a long, savory, tannic finish. Displays character and typicity. Drink now through 2033. Drink 2020 - 2033. (15/10/2020).

Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Minerally nose and soft, zesty, lively fruit. Great depth and length and with delicious, chewy tannins. Drink 2020 - 2028. (12/02/2020)

Inviting aromas of black-skinned berry, warm spice and tobacco emerge from the glass. The savory, balanced palate delivers blackberry jam, ripe raspberry and star anise alongside fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2028.

Seduces with a rich and sweetly scented bouquet of crushed black cherries, dried roses, and cloves. It&rsquo;s silky in texture, enveloping all that it touches with ripe red fruits and spices, nicely framed by saturating minerality, as inner violet florals form toward the close. There are tannins here, but they don&rsquo;t get in the way; instead, they create a perfectly dry platform where notes of lavender, plum and allspice hover above.

Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve. drink 2022 - 2040. (31/10/20).

A beam of black cherry and blackberry permeates this red, accented by wild rosemary, thyme, iron and oak spice. Beautifully balanced and graceful, this should begin to hit its stride in two to three years, once the oak is absorbed. Merlot. Best from 2023 through 2040.

The 2017 Messorio (100% Merlot) is classy and polished to the core. It is also incredibly young and not at all forthcoming. Messorio is a wine that needs a surprising amount of time in bottle to truly shine. I expect that will be the case here as well. Today, the 2017 is all about fruit and density. Time in the cellar should allow for its aromatics to emerge more fully. Overall, though, this is a fairly restrained style, in keeping with the showing of 2017 Bolgheri reds more broadly. All the elements come together so gracefully in this striking wine.

The Le Macchiole 2017 Scrio is a pure expression of Syrah that shows more similarities to the variety when grown in France than it does California, Australia or even the rest of Tuscany for that matter. Instead of the peppery charred meat or barbecued aromas you often get in New World Syrah, this wine points to blackberry, some black olive, rum cake, cr&egrave;me de cassis or chocolate-covered cherries. Although the wine is varietally pure, it doesn't really scream Syrah in any sort of obvious or banal manner. The tannins are more gripping in this hot vintage, and the wine spreads over the palate with a creamy, almost waxy texture that is enduring and deep. Drink 2022 - 2040. (31/10/2020)

This inky red is packed with blackberry, blueberry, black pepper, juniper, iron and spice aromas and flavors. Firm and dense, this remains balanced and long. Needs time to resolve its tannins. Syrah. Best from 2023 through 2033.

The 2017 Scrio, Le Macchiole's Syrah, is fabulous. As always, Scrio is more a wine of the estate than a varietal expression of Syrah. That is obvious. Even so, the wine's density, persistence and overall complexity make it compelling. Time in the glass brings out hints of cedar, smoke, sweet pipe tobacco and rose petal to play off a core of vibrant red Syrah fruit. I would give the 2017 a few years for the aromatics to develop. This is very nicely done.

The 2017 Paleo Rosso is superb. It is also the wine in this range that seems to have handled the rigors of 2017 best. Then again, that is the magic of Cabernet Franc on the Tuscan Coast. The aromatics alone are so alluring. Sweet pipe tobacco, mocha, dried flowers, mint, sage and cedar give Paleo its aromatic lift. Some varietal character has been baked out because of the heat of the year. In exchange, readers will find a Paleo Rosso that will drink well with just a year or two in bottle.

Deep, purple with a ruby-black core, lighter on the rim. The nose is gentle with aromas of cherry, blackberry intermixed barnyard and herb. Medium-bodied, aromas of cherry and blackberry have weight and concentration on the palate, unfolding a hint of cocoa, almond and savoury barnyard nuance. The wine features smooth, dusty tannins flowing along a tangy acid line. Balanced flavours, acid and texture lend a lingering rounded closing. This Dolcetto shows juicy cherry and blackberry fruit, savoury barnyard and a smooth palate. Match with wild boar and game over the next 3-5 years. 100% Dolcetto, controlled temperate fermentation, 4-5 days maceration, 13% alc, rested in stainless steel cask for 6-7 months. 17.5-/20 pts (87 pts) June 2022

An intense, sweet Veronese red traditionally made from grapes left to dry in the sun on racks before pressing and fermentation. A blend of obscure native Italian grape varieties is used to make this 13.5% alcohol in a ruby port style. Flavours of black cherry, spice muscatel and toasted almond. Food match: Almond cake, desserts and biscotti.

A broad, muscular red, this reveals black cherry, blackberry, earth, tobacco and wild herb flavors, turning leaner and slightly sinewy on the finish. Pugnitello, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

The Marchesi Antinori 2018 Solaia reveals a silky and elegant personality, and the wine steps away from some of the more robust fruit weight and dark concentration that we've seen in the past. This elegant vintage prizes fruit purity and focus with black plum, cassis, blue flower, pencil shaving and lots of sweet spice from the oak that recalls clove and toasted almond. The blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller parts Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese. The fruit is harvested at the Antinori family's Tenuta Tignanello at the heart of the Chianti Classico appellation. The percentage of Cabernet Franc used in the blend is the ultimate Solaia wild card. In this vintage, the Franc has been increased to 7%, and that number is expected to be even higher in 2019 as the vines get older and the fruit more complex. Production of Solaia is 65,000 bottles in this vintage. This is a beautiful wine, but if pressed I must admit a preference for the 2018 Tignanello (the other celebrated wine crafted at this property). The 2018 Solaia is delicious on all fronts as expected, but the 2018 Tignanello struck at my heart strings. Either way, these are stunning results.

Vibrant black currant, violet, vanilla and toasty oak flavors are the hallmarks of this classy red, which is succulent and balanced, with fine grip and a long, fruit-, iron- and spice-tinged aftertaste. More on the elegant side than powerful, yet this would benefit from an additional two to three years aging. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc.&nbsp;

Rich and packed with black cherry, blackberry and plum flavors shaded by wild Mediterranean herbs and baking spices. It's polished, yet dense, the tannins lining the lingering finish like cocoa powder. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now.

Bright, rich garnet. On the nose it's fine and restrained, a breath mint, ripe forest berries. On the palate, extremely polished, excellent use of wood, driven, tightly woven, spreads elegantly, powerful, long and compact.

The 2018 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is complete and seamlessly stitched together with extreme care and precision. This is an almost technical blend of Merlot (at 50% of the blend for the first time), 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot that offers a true sense of wholeness and consistency that speaks to the blending expertise and experience of the winemaking team. Finding harmony among the various vinous components of the wine was especially important in this vintage that prized early-ripening grapes like Merlot over the others. Blackberry and dried cherry segue to spice, tar, campfire ash and more sweet fruit. We're off to a great start, and this vintage of Ornellaia is surely destined to flesh out and grow more complex with age.

Complex, sophisticated and harmonious, this pure red is marked by black currant, black cherry, cedar, iron and light spice flavors. Bright and focused, with refined tannins emerging on the spice-tinged finish. Discreet and stylish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2040.&nbsp;

Deep glowing crimson. Restrained nose &ndash; more so that the Serre Nuove. This is all potential rather than actuality. Lots of dense fruit tucked in and quite a bit of tannin. Dry finish. Still a baby!

Remarkable pale-garnet colour. Delicate black-cherry aroma following on to a more leathery and slaty palate with ample complexity and persistence. That mineral element is really charming - it reminds me of the granitic touch of northern Rhone, and there is similarly bright acidity too.

Remarkable pale-garnet colour. Delicate black-cherry aroma following on to a more leathery and slaty palate with ample complexity and persistence. That mineral element is really charming - it reminds me of the granitic touch of northern Rhone, and there is similarly bright acidity too.

Dressed for a party, the Bibi Graetz 2019 coloure celebrates the estate's 20th anniversary with a special commemorative (2000-2019) bottle. This vintage of coloure is 100% Sangiovese (the small part of colourino in the blend we saw last year has been removed) because Bibi thought the Sangiovese elegant enough to stand alone. Fruit comes from three vineyard sites with 70-, 80- and 90-year-old vines, respectively. The wine offers big intensity and beautifully lifted aromas and more textural support than we saw in the slightly thinner 2018 vintage. The bouquet reveals balsam herb, cassis, pressed rose, garden mint and crushed stone. Fruit from the southern-most site, Poggio Matto in Casciano del Murlo (in the province of Siena), was blended in at a greater percentage to help build the structure and momentum of this cellar-worthy wine.

Pale garnet with less overt fruit than their Testamatta. Fibrous tannins with a touch of sour cherry and dark chocolate. Fine and transparent with firm structure - very traditional, very Tuscan in its bitter grippiness.

Dressed for a party, the Bibi Graetz 2019 coloure celebrates the estate's 20th anniversary with a special commemorative (2000-2019) bottle. This vintage of coloure is 100% Sangiovese (the small part of colourino in the blend we saw last year has been removed) because Bibi thought the Sangiovese elegant enough to stand alone. Fruit comes from three vineyard sites with 70-, 80- and 90-year-old vines, respectively. The wine offers big intensity and beautifully lifted aromas and more textural support than we saw in the slightly thinner 2018 vintage. The bouquet reveals balsam herb, cassis, pressed rose, garden mint and crushed stone. Fruit from the southern-most site, Poggio Matto in Casciano del Murlo (in the province of Siena), was blended in at a greater percentage to help build the structure and momentum of this cellar-worthy wine.

Pale garnet with less overt fruit than their Testamatta. Fibrous tannins with a touch of sour cherry and dark chocolate. Fine and transparent with firm structure - very traditional, very Tuscan in its bitter grippiness.

A classic expression, showing fresh pear, lemon pith, green tea and oatmeal nuances, leading to a finely flowing palate that's juicy and vibrant. Elegantly structured by crisp acidity, finishing lingering and mouth-watering. At its best: now to 2025.

The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino wafts up with a classic mix of earth tones, Tuscan dust and bright strawberries. It&rsquo;s silky yet cool-toned in feel with inner violet and lavender tones over a core of tart wild berry fruit. The 2020 leaves a coating of youthfully grippy tannins, yet it keeps the mouth watering as sweet minty herbs slowly fade. This is a fun and fruit-focused Rosso that maintains wonderful balance, and I love how savory, almost salty it is at times.

Fine, delicate and inviting, the bouquet shows white flesh nectarine, lemon peel and flinty notes with a hint of sweet cherry. The palate is delightfully charming with excellent focus and elegant mouthfeel, leading to a lengthy lively finish. At its best: now to 2024.

Le Macchiole's 2018 Messorio is soft and rich with impressive depth and intensity, all delivered with the softness that only the Merlot grape can manage. This important wine unfolds first to rich cherry and blackberry and then yields softly to secondary notes of spice, baker's chocolate and toasted almond. There is some youthful tightness in the mouth, with Merlot tannins that are hitched to firmness and softness, while showing impressive length all the while. The mouthfeel is most impressive, thanks to its seamless and supple nature that glides smoothly over the palate.

According to Cinzia Merli, producer of Le Macchiole, 2018 vintage is not her favourite. 'We can't compare it with the more red fruited 2017 and the concentration of 2019 is another matter,' she said. Having said that, this is one of her best Messorios of the last few years. On the nose it comes across as slightly herbal, with the leafy character of Merlot, loaded with restrained cassis, lead pencil and earthy clay minerality. Open-knit aromas of menthol are also present. The attack is smooth and velvety, with huge presence on the mid-palate where oaky tannins are still present. Full and refreshing with extremely youthful character. Drinking Window 2021 - 2048

The 2018 Scrio is a pure expression of Syrah and one of the wines that broke the mold on this grape grown in coastal Tuscany (I would put the Syrahs from Tua Rita and Duemani in the same category). This is such a delicious wine and you want to bite into it, sip after sip, as if it were food. There is sweetness here, ample spice, tons of dark fruit and a long, luscious finish. I came back to the open bottle a day later and discovered Christmas spice and savory leather. This Tuscan Syrah shies away from the more prominent white pepper or smoked bacon aromas that you sometimes get from this grape, especially in New World expressions. I'm all about Le Macchiole's Syrah.

The 2018 Scrio is different from recent vintages as Le Macchiole no longer manages some of the old vines of Syrah dedicated to this wine. However it's still a delicious, aromatic red to drink now. Its ester-y nose, with bright cassis and green pepper is supported by crisp almost zesty acidity, graceful tannins - despite the extraction - with cassis and black olive flavour...

You could argue that this wine changed Italian wine, because it was the first to fully embrace the potential of Cabernet Franc in the bel paese. The Le Macchiole 2018 Paleo has a spicy and tangy personality with dark fruit, bitter chocolate and tarry smoke. Coming back to my open bottle 24 hours later, I got some green olive and rosemary essence. The mouthfeel fleshes out considerably, and there is beautiful structure to hold it firmly together. Other vintners in Bolgheri have told me of their difficulties with Cabernet Franc in the 2018 vintage, which saw rain toward the end of the season. This wine feels magically immune to those issues and probably means that the expert vineyard team harvested at the right moment.

Powerful, flint ruby with light purple shimmer. Opens on the nose with notes of tobacco and blackberry, plus some sandalwood. Really emerges on the palate with lots of juicy fruit, dark cherry and mulberry, opens with dense, fine-meshed tannin and has fine drinking flow.

The Le Macchiole 2020 Bolgheri Rosso is 50% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a powerhouse wine that has become a steady little engine for the estate economy, growing from a production of 36,000 bottles to 140,000 bottles made annually today. This vintage does a terrific balancing act with dark fruit and concentration on the one hand and an accessible easy-drinking personality on the other. Black fruit cedes to baked brioche, spice and toasted aniseed. The wine finishes for 10 months in a combination of second, third and fourth-year barrique, and about 30% of the total goes into cement. The finish is polished and fresh, and you get good value.

A very different style from the Sartori [tasted previously] this wine is more savoury and assertively tannic - with soy, cigar, liquorice and earthy, spicy flavours. Match with spicy tomato based vegetarian or beef dishes.

&ldquo;Linear and pure&rdquo;.

Medium body with fruit that combines blackcurrant with something more bitter, almost juniper-like. Very fine but mouth-coating tannins and quite a bit of alcohol heat on the finish. Very tasty, but not quite as polished as its bigger sibling.

Medium ruby-red, slight on the rim. The nose is gentle and elegant, with penetrating aromas of plum, redberry tart, cola nut, leather and spice. Medium-full bodied, juicy fruit of redberry, young red plum, cola nut melded with a hint of leather and subtle spice. The red-fruited core possesses juicy acidity and brightens the fine-weaved tannin structure. This Primitivo is juicy with vibrant red fruit and a ripe tannin framework. Match with beef cannelloni and pork chop over the next 3-4 years. 13.5% alc. 17.5/20 pts (88 pts) Apr 2023.

Honestly, this is one of the best reds, local or imported, that I have sampled in a long time. Reminds me very much of Montepulciano Brunellos that I was lucky enough to sample in Tuscany many years ago. Soft and gorgeous. Supple and ripe with spiced cherry, dark plum, baba rhum, almond toffee and a hint of tawny port. Buy now. Before I do. Food match - Italian tomato-based pasta. Or by itself.

Powerful, bright ruby with fine garnet shimmer. Very open, also slightly oxidative nose of dried figs, raspberry cordial and cut apple. At the palate only marked by sweetness, without any play from the tannin.

Expressive and decidedly gentle and harmonious in the main profile, it shows notes of black plums, marjoram, lavender, hibiscus, black olives, strawberries, geraniums and white pepper. Medium body, creamy tannins of splendid elegant shape, perfectly polymerized and a finish of commendable beauty. Drink now.

Ungrafted Nerello Mascalese vines planted in 1910 at 870&ndash;910 m above Solicchiata in the contrada Barbabecchi. First made in 2001 and from 2007 from this site. Complex nose with many more layers than the Munjebel crus of the same vintage. Flattering and broad. Very satisfying, complete, and exceptionally persistent.

Nerello Mascalese planted in 1946 on a steep, south-facing site on compacted sandy clay at 760 m. First made in 2011. This used to be a particularly big wine but from 2018 onwards the grapes were picked deliberately a bit earlier. Bright, deep crimson. Sweet nose reminiscent of rose petals then a certain jujube quality to the fruit before a really grainy grip on the palate. Long with a very dry finish. It really built towards the finish. 14.5% Drink 2023 &ndash; 2033

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.

A solid white with dried pear, apple, cream and stone aromas and flavors. Its full-bodied with a beautiful core of fruit and a steely, minerally aftertaste. Bright acidity with phenolic texture that holds the wine together nicely, giving it length and tension. Turns lightly chewy and round at the end. Drink or hold.

The Bibi Graetz 2020 coloure is a pure expression of Sangiovese all sourced from old vines that are carefully selected in various parts of Tuscany. Much of the fruit comes from a high elevation and cool site in Lamole, or from 70-year-old vines in Bagno a Ripoli or Vincigliata near Fiesole. A small percentage of old vines in Olmo is also used. Bibi has a preference for old vines, and you can taste the lovely depth and complexity that comes through in the coloure. Compared to his other wine Testamatta, this wine has seen fewer stylistic changes over the years, and the goal has always been elegance and finesse. coloure boasts a pretty luminous quality with dark fruit aromas and wild berry. There are hints of licorice and mint as well. Mineral flavors and bright acidity are what set coloure apart.

Bright and lively on the palate, such beautifully expressed raspberry and red cherry fruit flavours alongside high-shining acidity that is so clean and precise. A supremely joyful expression with hints of caramelised strawberries and fresh mint. So sharp but so well defined with a clarity to the palate that is gorgeous. Really delivers a sophisticated, charming, characterful wine that is balanced, easy to enjoy with plenty of life. A more structured and perhaps harder to understand wine than Testamatta this year, but both have their own lovely personalities. This is so complete and abundant, muscular but controlled and full of complexity and detail - there's weight and density without heaviness. A sensational wine. aging 12 months in 500l French oak barrels.

This supple red shows a core of cherry and plum fruit allied to olive, juniper and tobacco notes. Delivers well-integrated tannins and acidic structure, lingering nicely on the finish. Sangiovese, colourino and Pugnitello. Drink now through 2030. 29,000 cases made.

Red-fruit and cherry nose laced with sweet oak. The palate is much more interesting than the nose would have you believe with sweet-sour cherry fruit and tannic bite. Ends on crushed red-berry fruit with a lot of acidity.

Bright, even, pale yellow gold. The nose is softly full and fragrant, with citrus, Nashi pear, straw and blossom aromas. Medium-light bodied, aromas of lemon and grapefruit lead the palate, followed by Nashi pear, hay and rich blossom. The mouthfeel is textural, lightly oily with a mineral texture. Moderate acidity compliments the fruit and carries a dry, clean finish. Match with white fish and calamari over the next 2-3 years. Fermented to 13% alc. 17.5/20 pts (88 pts) May 2023

Bright, pale peach pink, even colour throughout. The bead is moderately fine, vibrant and persistent. The nose is soft with faint aromas of red berry, stonefruit, orange and creamy lees. Medium-light bodied, aromas of red berry melded with nectarine, orange zest and a creamy lees complexity. The wine is dry with subtle, with a clean, buoyant palate, and subtle fruit notes linger with fine acidity. This Prosecco Ros&#233; is elegantly presented with a dry, fresh palate and a lightly creamy mouthfeel. Serve as an aperitive or match with kingfish crudo over the next 2-3 years. A blend of Glera 85% and Pinot Noir 15%, made by Charmat Method with second fermentation in tank, left in tank on lees for 60 days minimum. 11% alc. 18+/20 pts (91 pts) Apr 2023. &nbsp;

A blend of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese from Cornelissen's three highest vineyards (hence vigne alte): Tartaraci at 1,000 m at Bronte, Barbabecchi at 910 m and Rampante Soprana at 870 m at Solicchiata. First made in 2010. Bright crimson with a restrained nose. Backward and very tannic. Not to my taste &ndash; too introverted and tough at the moment &ndash; but it may get there in the end. Certainly ambitious! 14.5% Drink 2025 &ndash; 2035

Sincere and enveloping it opens slowly in the glass with scents of ash, cinchona, rhubarb, wood slats, star of anise and orange rind. It is spicy and intact 40 years after the harvest, still exciting and with a naturally beautiful profile. The tannins have been polymerized with the action of time but the freshness of the acidity remains vibrant and crunchy. Drink now or hold. Raffaele Vecchione &ndash; tasted 2021

Shows aromas of stewed fruit, with dried flowers and hints of fresh leather. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a delicate finish. A bit rustic, but delicious. Best after 2008. 15,000 cases made.

Blueberry, forest berry and a delicate floral touch round off richly toasted notes that glide smoothly over a harmonious whole. It lacked some of the building blocks to see it through the years, but we saw this as a gentle, easy wine to enjoy now with roasted or grilled meats.

Very Sangiovese, this red combines both fruit and savory elements -- cherry, strawberry, hibiscus, wet hay, iron and tobacco -- with a firm structure. Expressive, balanced, vibrant and long, with stiff tannins on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042

Masses of crushed cherries and cloves give way to nuances of spiced citrus peels and cedar as the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. This is round and pliant on the palate, with a balanced inner sweetness contrasting its mineral-tinged acids and tart wild berry fruits. Grippy tannins mount toward the close, yet fail to slow the 2018's momentum, as notes of salted licorice are left to resonate under an air of dried roses. This is a deep and characterful rendition of Col d'Orcia's Brunello, but patience will be required to unlock all of its charms.

The Marchesi Antinori 2019 Solaia is another blockbuster success from Tuscany's leading wine estate. The blend sees a slightly higher percentage of Cabernet Franc and a slightly lower percentage of Sangiovese. The current mix is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Franc (which has been creeping up in recent years, especially as the climate changes). The soils at the Solaia vineyard are rich in Galestro rock, which is an especially happy pairing with Cabernet Franc in particular. Managing Director Renzo Cotarella tells me that that a vintage like 2019 is proof that the final character of a wine comes from its surrounding territory, not from the blend. This is a generous and extremely expressive edition with lots of dark fruit, spice and sweet tobacco. The tannins are beautifully velvety and soft. This is a beautiful wine that collectors will love.

This youthful version features intense black currant, blackberry and black cherry fruit wrapped in accents of cedar, Mediterranean scrub and toasty oak, with a mineral streak underlining it all. A solid spine of tannins lends support, while the dark fruit returns on the finish. Shows terrific balance, vigor and excruciating length, yet this needs time in the bottle. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 500 cases imported.

Very polished, with dark fruit and fragrant red flowers. There is a real fragrance and note of graphite that may be a reflection of the increased Cabernet Franc. The wood is fairly prominent on the palate, slightly masking the fruit at this early stage and adding a granular structure on top of already powerful Cabernet tannins. Sweet fruit does reveal itself more on the finish, suggesting this is just in an awkward phase at the moment.

Full, deep purple, even colour throughout. The nose is gently full, with succulent cherry, blackberry, autumn leaves, mushroom and spice aromas. Medium-bodied, dark cherry and blackberry aromas melded with savoury mushroom, autumn leaves and subtle spice. Powdery tannins lightly framed with black fruit, unfolding savoury details and spice with lacy acidity lend an appetizing finish. Match with pork chops and sautee mushroom over the next 3-5 years. 14.5% alc. 18.5/20 pts (93 pts) July 2023

Bright, medium ruby-red, lighter on the rim. The nose is fresh, with aromas of strawberry, sour cherry, elegant floral fragrance, spice hints and minerals. Medium-light bodied aromas of strawberry and cherry entwined with floral, delicate spice and a touch of earthy minerals. The mouthfeel is soft with supple tannin extraction and flows with bright acidity to a fresh finish. Match with pasta and pork over the next 3 years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, 13% alc. 17.5+/20 pts (89 pts) July 2023

The Le Macchiole 2019 Scrio benefits from reductive winemaking that is intended to lock in the natural fragrances and elegance of this versatile grape. It is fermented in stainless steel and cement and is partially aged in more oxygen-prone tonneaux. The rest goes into truncated cement vat and ceramic vessels. With Le Macchiole, you don't get a flabby over-extracted Syrah; instead, you get a polished and extremely elegant wine with a tight (trim but not lean) mouthfeel and beautifully integrated tannins. Only 3,800 bottles were made, and in case you were wondering, the suggested tasting order of Cinzia Merli's three IGT wines is Paleo, Scrio and then Messorio.

Bright, intense ruby with a pronounced purple hue. Opens on the nose with notes of undergrowth, some pepper and galangal, then plum and some graphite. Stretches out really well on the palate with grippy, finely meshed tannins in the multi-layered core, has drive and juice, lots of plum on the finish.

The stunning Le Macchiole 2019 Messorio is all Merlot from a special 2.5-hectare plot with a classic mix of Bolgheri soils featuring clay, silt, sandstone and limestone. The wine ferments in concrete and finishes in new barrique for 18 months. I spoke with proprietor Cinzia Merli about Merlot, and she concedes that this early-ripening grape suffers the most because of climate change. However, the winemaking team works extra hard for balance and elegance notwithstanding. This beautiful wine releases perfumes of cherry, blue flower, iris root, crushed stone and slate. Well-balanced oak tones add power and texture to the full-bodied close. 11,000 bottles were released.

Well-marked by new oak at this stage, with vanilla and toasty spices wrapped around a core of plum, black cherry, earth and cedar. Graceful and balanced, turning firmer on the persistent finish. This is all about the purity of fruit, finesse and length. Decant now or age this 2-3 years.

Clear, intense ruby with hints of purple. Opens with notes of forest floor, cedar and pine needles, then inviting tones of blueberry and blackberry. Very juicy, lots of dark fruit, opens with finely meshed, very well-structured tannins, shows good flow and a juicy, very long finish.

&ldquo;&hellip;bright berry aromas and a touch of sour cherry on the finish. &nbsp;Col d'Orcia is a winery in a unique position. &nbsp;Because a good part of the vineyards are located on the lower, southern side of the Montalcino appellation, fruit ripens faster and shows bolder characteristics. &nbsp;At the same time, the house style is classic and unembellished. &nbsp;These two factors don't normally jive together, but this estate does a great job of making sure they do, thanks to rigorous green harvesting and fruit selection. &nbsp;The bouquet is redolent of wild berries, white cherry, dried raspberry and spice. &nbsp;At the back, you'll find delicate tones of cola and rosemary.&rdquo;

Broad and beefy, with rich aromas of cherry, earth and leather mark this broad, beefy Brunello. &nbsp;Retains enough smoothness and acidity to drive the cherry, tobacco and eucalyptus flavors to a long finish.

Dark salmon almost blood orange hues lead to a bouquet and palate filled with flavours of pink grapefruit and orange peel, there&rsquo;s flavours of fermented plum then raspberry. Dry, satin-textured with a core of fruit and old roses, some mineral qualities and balanced, even finish. A distinctively different expression - worth exploring. Best form 2023 through end of summer 2025.

Tasted from barrel, the 2020 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia will be presented in the fall but won&rsquo;t hit the market until spring of the following year. This is a beauty, so generous and opulent with fully seamless transitions. The wine&rsquo;s traditional blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with tiny percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, although this warm vintage makes do with a pinch less of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit is selected across 107 hectares of Ornellaia vines, although the estate recently purchased an additional eight hectares next to Guado al Tasso in Castagneto Carducci, with terraces and vines aged between 15 and 28 years old. This broad and generous expression has a beautiful quality of fruit and oak that speaks to the very best of Italian winemaking.&nbsp;Barrel Sample:&nbsp;95-97

Inviting aromas of blackberry, black currant, anise, cedar, vanilla and tobacco draw you in to this red, which is sleek and open on the palate. This is so well-balanced, it's approachable now, yet there's a bit of reserve too. The fruit flavors are prominent on the finish, along with mineral and spice notes, while the lasting impression is a salty, flinty element. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Alluring aromas of lead pencil and currants with crushed stone and iodine. Full-bodied with hemmed in tannins that are tight and focused. Very fresh and energetic with wonderful length and intensity for this vintage. Needs four or five years to come together. Better in 2028 and onwards.

70-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines, part ungrafted, in deep soils at 730 m in Randazzo. First made in 2015. Deep crimson. Intense with a hint of molasses. Really rich and deep-flavoured. Long and satisfying but desperately in need of food to go with it. 14.5% Drink 2022 &ndash; 2032

&nbsp;Voluptuous and silky. Intense flavours of cassis, fruitcake, black berry fruits and a core of medium tannins. Ripe and seductive.

Big and generous with a savoury oak backbone. The classic wine of Abruzzo in Italy, an italian red made from the Montepulciano grape variety. This wine is ripe and almost sweet with boysenberry, cassis, spiced plum, almond and leather. Medium to firm tannins. Hints of soy and truffle.

Bursting with aromas and flavors of apricot and strawberry preserves and accents of spiced orange peel, toffee and fragrant herb, this rich and creamy sweetie is backed by vibrant acidity that carries the range of flavor on the lasting finish. Shows lovely concentration without excessive weight. Vespaiolo. Drink now through 2029.&nbsp;

In the late 1800's Sartori's trattoria was the place to frequent if you were a merchant, trader or weary traveller hunting for hearty food, good wine and a comfy place to camp. As the family concentrated more on wine, hospitality remained their focus, which is why their prosecco's are especially friendly. Wild apple and acacia aromas with lemony, creamy characters, a biscuity backbone and cloud-like complexity - it's outstanding with sweetcorn and basil polenta, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

"The Frank Cornelissen 2020 Sicilia Nerello Mascalese Vigna Barbabecchi Magma is a creative and original wine that is a lot of fun to drink and dissect. Fruit comes from a vineyard site at about 1,000 meters in elevation above the Contrada Rampante. This 2.5-hectare site was planted in 1910, and more than half of the fruit goes toward this production. The wine offers ample richness and volume with dark berry, campfire ash, grilled herb and cola."

So much blue fruit to this with raspberry and blue berry aromas as well as cranberries and pomegranate. Citrus, too. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a fresh and tensioned finish. It&rsquo;s very long and very cool in its nature. Shows lovely ripeness and balance at the end. Wonderful intensity. Drink or hold. Tasted 2023.

&nbsp;&nbsp;"I like the aromas of vine bark, rose stem, light parsley, and red fruits that follow through to a medium body, with white pepper and cloves with a fresh and vivid finish. Tight and tannic. Shows tightness and focus. Best after 2025 but already fascinating to taste. (8/4/23)"

&nbsp;"Lovely cool berry, orange blossom, pumice, smoke and lava aromas, but subtle and complex. Bark and mushroom, too. Full-bodied and very structured with powerful tannins that are polished and thought-provoking. This needs time to soften. Clearly one for the cellar. Best after 2026. (8/4/23)

A blend of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese from Cornelissen's three highest vineyards (hence vigne alte): Tartaraci at 1,000 m at Bronte, Barbabecchi at 910 m and Rampante Soprana at 870 m at Solicchiata. First made in 2010. Bright crimson with a restrained nose. Backward and very tannic. Not to my taste &ndash; too introverted and tough at the moment &ndash; but it may get there in the end. Certainly ambitious! 14.5% Drink 2025 &ndash; 2035

Organic sparkler from Friuli, Italy. Fresh, frothy and fruity with a bit of sweetness and flavours of crisp apple. 11% ABV. Tasted August 2024.

From Italian garganega grapes. Fermented and aged in oak. Full-bodied but flinty and dry. Pear, peach, a hint of anise spice and an almost astringent dry finish. Tasted August 2024.