Puneet’s En Primeur Bordeaux Tour - Day 3
Wednesday, 26th April 2023
Every year, thousands from around the world descend upon Bordeaux for what the locals call “Crazy Week” where the wine industry’s finest come to visit the famous Chateaus of the region and sample hundreds of the latest vintages. In this third part of a series, Puneet recounts his experience visiting the region and just what to look out for from 2022.
DAY 3: Morning Visits
Brane Cantenac, Issan, Palmer, Rauzan Segla, Margaux
Visit 18: Château Brane Cantenac AOC Margaux second growth
Henri Lurton runs a tight ship here, but he sets his own mark and understands the individuality of people and the senses. In such a way he achieves uniqueness from his wines that sets him as a class above. The Estate is 75 Ha. In 2022 the small berries, particularly from The Merlot gave a denseness, suppleness and aromatic quality to thew wine. Henri fermented at cooler temperatures from a 100+ lots. At first the Grand vin had no poress additions, but he found the Cabernet sauvignon skin so amazing that he added some of this press to the Grand vin.
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Brane-Cantenac | Colour | 3 | 18+ | Aromatic, plush, smooth silky tannins ready to drink | |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Brane-Cantenac | Château Brane Cantenac AOC Margaux second growth | Colour | 3 | 19+ | Perfumed aromatics and blue fruit, energy, fresh, plush, blue, very long, smooth will be ready to drink very early, great |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 9 |
Visit 19: Château d’Issan AOC Margaux third growth
This Chateau’s architecture look and feel linger back to 1300 to 1600 AD. Its large stonework, its clos and moat with actual water. There is a mediaeval quality to the place – you expect trumpets to blare with coats of arms unfurling from the brass. The owners are very keen to work with New Zealand and open up Pacific markets.
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Issan | Blasson d’Issan AOC Margaux | Colour | 3 | 17 | Good tannin and length, nice power, from the eatern edge of the estate, petit verdot is on own rootstock 44% Cabernet sauvignon 55% Merlot, 1% Petit verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8 | ||||
Issan | Château d’Issan AOC Margaux third growth | Colour | 3 | 17.5 | Fresh, vibrant, tannin good but large will take a few years to mellow, unlike Brane which are already supple the malbec parcel adds to the blend 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 |
Visit 20: Château Palmer AOC Margaux third growth
We are told at Palmer that the Merlot really adapted to conditions and although June through to harvest was record breaking heat, the Merlot developed ripe, complex and aromatic characters. The Chateau was relieved and confident for the future and really believe that the future is in Clay. Vine maintenance is also key with cover crops and biodynamic principles. Vineyard age also plays a key part in adaptation. Also as the intense heat started early, in May the vines again had some time to adapt to the heat before veraison and harvest.
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Palmer | Colour | 3 | 18 | Great nose so complex, intensity and good concentration on palate, plenty of flavour and lovely ripe tannins. The alter ego comes from about 1/3 of the estate mainly from gravel soils | |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Palmer | Château Palmer AOC Margaux third growth | Colour | 3 | 18.5+ | Delisious, power voluptuousness, elegance, dark fruit, firm structure, ripe wines are from deeper gravel and clay parts of the estate |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 9.5 |
Visit 21: Château Rauzan Ségla AOC Margaux second growth
A very cool visit – we were shown various samples from the barrel room – always a great help to understand more about why the final blend is as it is. The Chateau GM is very keen for her technical team to learn more English and is considering sending some of the team to New Zealand – I have promised them and many others fly fishing excursions around Taupo – and even with a helicopter thrown in to get to the higher streams!
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rauzan Ségla | Château Rauzan Ségla AOC Margaux second growth | Colour | 3 | 17 | Nice, savoury character, elegant and quite gentle, quite linear perhaos not as round and full as others 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8 |
Visit 22: Château Margaux AOC Margaux first growth
Managing director Philippe Bascaules conducted our tasting. And what a tasting. With the large Chateau we are escorted through several levels of security through a square gravel courtyard into a simple white conservatory lining the courtyard. Phillipe talks in depth about his work and the vines. He believes that removing leaves in extreme heat and therefore limiting the plants ability to photosynthesise is now a key philosophy for Margaux and a key reason to their success this year. He grants me permission after the tasting to take a photo down the path in front of the legendary Chateau. I do so with a copy of Ponsonby News.
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Margaux | Pavillon blanc du Château Margaux | Colour | 3 | 17 | Nice, savoury character, elegant and quite gentle, quite linear perhaps not as round and full as others. 72% Cabernet sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Margaux | Pavillon rouge du Château Margaux AOC Margaux | Colour | 3 | 18.5+ | Exceptionally fragrant nose, so elegant, power, fresh, long length with concentration, velvety tannin, creamy 32% of crop |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Margaux | Château Margaux AOC Margaux first growth | Colour | 3 | 19.5 | Exquisite nose, a fine fine palate, again fresh, amazing tannin ripe with texture and very long length and firm structure 40% of crop |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 9.5 |
DAY 3: Lunch
at Château Lascombes AOC Margaux second growth
Another incredibly picturesque Chateau and wow what a lunch – the best of the tour and more fit for a wedding. The string duo playing as we arrive, the bright lit room with exceptional china and tableware and the biggest cheese table ever with every great cheese from France represented – various vintages of aged Margaux on the table C’est magnifique, lunch was so good I take some extra time and skip the UGC margaux tasting – life’s pleasure must take precedent.
DAY 3: Afternoon Visits
Latour. Mouton, Lafite, Montrose, Duhart, Clerc Milon
Visit 23: Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth
There is always an excitement when you visit one of the elite Chateau and for many Latour feels like the top one, although through these tasting I can see how each first growth is unique to its terroir and appellation. We have a tasting with an English gent which is different and of course all get quite excited as we leave to get pictures near the famous Tower – Latour!
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Latour | 18 Le Pauillax de Château Latour AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 18.5 | Really, really approachable, juicy, round, fruit driven joyful |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 9 | ||||
Latour | 22 Le Pauillax de Château Latour AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 17.5 | Round, plump, felsh, good mid palate 48.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.2% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Latour | 17 Les Forts de Latour AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 18.5 | Blue, round and broad length also velvet big wine tasty |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Latour | 22 Les Forts de Latour AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 18.5 | Beautiful nose, fragrant aromatics, good power, fresh, nice tannins 58.7% Cabernet Sauvignon 37.9% Merlot 3.4% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Latour | 15 Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth | Colour | 3 | 19.5 | Wow, blue black fruit, slate, mineral, saline round and full, power elegance – this has it all |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 9.5 | ||||
Latour | 22 Château Latour AOC Pauillac first growth | Colour | 3 | 19 | Perfect nose, so much aroma, vioets, very very large wine but elegant very long finish 92% Cabernet sauvignon 7.4% Merlot, 0.15% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate | 9 |
Visit 24: Château Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac fifth growth (includes Mouton Rothschild)
The company has a nice collection of Pauillac Chateau, and the wines are very well made, perhaps it was late in the day, or a crowded tasting room, these wines were shining but not shining brightly to me to knock my socks off, this is unusual given the level of greatness I am seeing elsewhere, I would love to revisit the Mouton again and reassess
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) | Pastourelle de Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 17.5+ | Really good, great value, bright elegant and ripe tannins |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 8 | ||||
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) | Château Clerc Milon AOC Pauillac fifth growth | Colour | 3 | 17-18.5 | Great nose massive tannin will need a while perhaps after 2028 or so big power large concentration – I’d like to taste this gain in a few years |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 7.5 | ||||
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) | Château d’Armailhac AOC Pauillac fifth growth | Colour | 3 | 17.5-18.5 | Bright red/blue fruit juicy, full, round, more rip but still big tannin |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) | Le petit mouton de mouton rothschild AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 16 | Nose is not so great, palate is ok, tannins not bad, fruit is bright and some roundness to mouthfeel |
Nose | 5.5 | ||||
Palate | 7.5 | ||||
Clerc Milon (Mouton R.) | Château Mouton Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth | Colour | 3 | 17.5-18.5 | Nose is good, length is nice up front, dips a little in the middle and comes back well at the end, very nice finish |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 |
Visit 25: Château Lafite Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth
I love this Chateau. The back of the Chateau opens up onto a deck which looks out over the most beautiful lake – true Monet style. My negociant tells me they had the Chateau to themselves for the evening a year ago, and 5 of them dined on the terrace overlooking the lake – I my gosh I hope that opportunity comes to me one day – its a bucket list thing!
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lafite-R | Moulin de Duhart AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 17 | Good as you know bright fresh power, elegant although a little less tannin smooth at sacrifice of length although a good finish 87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Lafite-R | Château Duhart Milon Rothschild AOC Pauillac fourth growth | Colour | 3 | 17.5-18 | Big. Plenty of power large tannin needs a lot of time 78% Cabernet sauvignon 22% merlot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5-9 | ||||
Lafite-R | Carruades de Lafite AOC Pauillac | Colour | 3 | 18+ | Really nice good, racy, bright smooth tannin and length. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 9 | ||||
Lafite-R | Château Lafite Rothschild AOC Pauillac first growth | Colour | 3 | 19.5 | Great! Red fruit balance refinement length amazing hint of menthol 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 7 | ||||
Palate |
Visit 26: Château Montrose AOC Saint Estephe second growth
After last night’s party a return to the scene! We have a strong intelligent young guy present – Arnaud – he spent some time at Waiheke with Steve at Stonyridge, so we get on famously. Its the last tasting of the day and no engagements this evening. I down the Montrose!
Visit | Wine | Sensory Type | Sensory Score | Total Score | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Montrose | Château TronquoyAOC Saint Estephe | Colour | 3 | 17.5 | Good structure, finesse and power bright god fruit 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Montrose | Dame de Montrose AOC Saint Estepehe | Colour | 3 | 18+ | Delicous round, expressive powerfull ripe 71% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 8.5 | ||||
Montrose | Château Montrose AOC Saint Estephe second growth | Colour | 3 | 18.5-19.5 | Really good ripe powerful round length, bright, fresh supple. 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot |
Nose | 6.5 | ||||
Palate | 9 |